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Thread: Odd spindle & tail center alignment issues help!!

  1. #1
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    Odd spindle & tail center alignment issues help!!

    So a couple of years ago when I read here that my tail center and my spindle center should align closely, I ran to the garage to check, and my Delta LA 200 was perfect. Phewwwww! A year ago, when I started turning pens, I had a problem with the tips away from the headstock being out of round. I read here that I needed a 60 degree tail center. $20.00 later I had said tail center. Problem is, my pens are still out of round ( the full length of the pen), but the problem is not consistent. After much blood sweat and swearing, I found that the tailstock only lines up part of the time. Every time I move the tailstock in, it lands in a different position. No way to accurately measure how far it is off, but I am guessing from the inaccuracy on the pens, that the error is as much as .006.-008in. It could easily be worse. If I lightly push the base of the tailstock away from me while tightening the locking lever, the alignment seems to be better, but it is still hit and miss. Each time I load a pen I have to turn the lathe on and feel for vibration, stop the lathe, try again, rinse lather repeat, ad infinitem. What a pain and time waster. I tried standing on one foot, wearing a red hat under a full moon, with my left pinkie in my right ear, and tossing a rotten egg over my right shoulder while chanting Moody Blues lyrics, but I still get the same results. Now the neighbors watch me closely, and the eggs stink.

    Any thoughts on how to get a consistent alignment? When the problem is this bad with a pen, it is much worse with a vessel. It seems that a shim would only work if the alignment problem were consistent. I suggested to SWMBO that we buy some new condiments like Mayo or Mustard. That was a week ago, and she is still giggling.

    Any great ideas from the "School of Hard Knocks" crew here?
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  2. #2
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    I know your problem-- you should of been chanting ABBA lyrics not Moody Blues it has something to do with the whole Sweedish thing

    btw Wrong pinkie also

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hallowell View Post
    I know your problem-- you should of been chanting ABBA lyrics not Moody Blues it has something to do with the whole Sweedish thing

    btw Wrong pinkie also
    Yeah, I think it was supposed to be a brown egg too. @%(%$#. Why do these things always happen to me?
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  4. #4
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    My advice, I ran into the same problem on my old HF lathe, is to do one of 2 things:

    1- I have a wickedly straight mandrel for pen turning. I got wildly lucky with one I bought on the Bay. I used it to lock down the tailstock and to check it's accuracy and I found it helpful.

    2- For between $20 and $30 you can find a double ended MT2 mandrel. It will go into the head-stock and the tailstock at the same time. You would extend the center screw of the tailstock as far as possible, insert the double-end MT2 adapter, lock the 2 together tightly and you will be in line. Lock down the tailstock and headstock (mine was turnable) then retract the center of the tailstock (quill?!!?) and insert the pieces you want to work on. Should make things extremely accurate.

    Joshua

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    did you try cursing in another language? I find that helps.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Dinerstein View Post
    For between $20 and $30 you can find a double ended MT2 mandrel. It will go into the head-stock and the tailstock at the same time. You would extend the center screw of the tailstock as far as possible, insert the double-end MT2 adapter, lock the 2 together tightly and you will be in line. Lock down the tailstock and headstock (mine was turnable) then retract the center of the tailstock (quill?!!?) and insert the pieces you want to work on.
    Joshua
    Sounds like an easy solution for pens. A few questions:

    Where does one find such a double headed beast?

    Also, does the MT2 on the tailstock end come off for turning, and get replaced by the 60 degree center or does it stay on in place of the tailstock center?

    Is there a similar gizmo to get the tailstock alignment accurate when turning vessels of varying lengths?
    Last edited by Brian Brown; 09-14-2009 at 5:40 PM. Reason: clarity
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex carey View Post
    did you try cursing in another language? I find that helps.
    My spanish is a little rusty, and my neighbor (Mexican) came over and asked me why I was screaming at the top of my lungs for Pizza Hut to deliver me a turnip, saurkraut and anchovy pizza.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

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    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    I've seen this before, but isn't it just used to re-align the headstock after rotation, and it assumes that the tailstock will always tighten down with the same consistent alignment? In order to get this out (and put any type of turning in), I would have to move the tailstock, and then it may be out of alignment again? Maybe I'm just not getting it. On the plus side, If I can't put anything else between centers, the garage will stay a lot cleaner.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  10. #10
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    Brian,

    I think what the gentleman was suggesting was to extend your quill as far as possible. Using this tool, align the headstock and the tailstock. Lock both of them down to the bed. Then retract the quill and insert your mandrel to turn pens.


    Have you tried removing your headstock and cleaning the bottom? I had a similar issue with mine and I found some splattered finish material was stuck to the bottom of the tailstock. I cleaned the bottoms of both the headstock and tailstock and it resolved the issue.

    I have one of those tools BTW. It was given to me recently by a guy whom I introduced to turning. He is a Creeker BTW.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 09-14-2009 at 5:30 PM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Brian,

    Have you tried removing your headstock and cleaning the bottom? I had a similar issue with mine and I found some splattered finish material was stuck to the bottom of the tailstock. I cleaned the bottoms of both the headstock and tailstock and it resolved the issue.
    I have cleaned the underside of the ways, but didn't think to clean the bottom of the tailstock because it was sliding well. I know what I'll be doing tonight when I get home! I was wondering where that other half of my balogna sandwich ended up. There also might be a little CA from some sloppy pen finishing.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  12. #12
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    Maybe I'm missing something Brian, but isn't that double ended mandrel what Ken linked you to?
    Mark

    You can sometimes count every orange on a tree but never all the trees in a single orange. -A.K. Ramanujan

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Burge View Post
    Maybe I'm missing something Brian, but isn't that double ended mandrel what Ken linked you to?
    I don't think it is ?!? I think it is just an alignment tool.

    Wait, I'm really slow on the uptake! Yes, and I understand how extending the quill will make it possible to get the double MT2 out. Now if there was just something to allow a variable distance between centers (my quill only allows 2" of travel), my problems would all be fixed.
    Last edited by Brian Brown; 09-14-2009 at 6:21 PM.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  14. #14
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    Brian,
    Do you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base? It would still be a PITA to "indicate in" the tailstock live center point, but maybe less hit or miss.
    Richard in Wimberley

  15. #15
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    Being out of round doesn't have anything to do with the tailstock not lining up.
    Or, having your tailstock not lining up with the headstock, doesn't make the turning out of round.
    I can take a precision metal lathe and move the tailstock over, it will make for a tapered turning as the tool moves in a straight line with the ways, doesn't make a oval or out of round turning though.
    To get something to become oval or out of round, the turning or your tool has to move while turning, it is the only way for that to happen.
    Have fun and take care

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