Bill Pentz has changed my life!

[Jim Izat]

I've been pondering the purchase of a lathe lately while my wife has been after me to get dust collection in my shop (I know she's smarter than me, that's why I married her.) Anyway I had been reading Bill's encyclopedic website on dust collection and must have left it up on the screen when my wife sat down to use the computer. While the excellent technical info didn't seem to interest her much, her attention was drawn to the "Doc's Orders" section.

In no uncertain terms I was told to get dust collection in the shop as soon as I could. (First time I've been told to get something not just given the okay.)

As near as I can tell, the choice comes down to Oneida vs. Woodsucker, and the research I have read and found leads me to believe that the Woodsucker is the better deal for the buck. I briefly flirted with the idea of making my own cyclone but there's no way I could, I don't have the skills.

So my only thought left is the ducting. Taking Bill's advice I'm going to go with 6" thick walled PVC as close to the machines as I can get it but I have one fairly serious challenge. I have light fixtures on the ceiling of my shop the all but negates the idea of running the ducting across the ceiling. I think the only thing I can do is to run it up through the attic and then down to the machines. Is this feasable with the intake port on the side of the cyclone? I know that you're not supposed to have any abrupt turns in the ducting, so how do I get the main run up there to bring it back down later?

Has anybody else ducted their system this way? I hate the thought of punching a bunch of six inch holes in my sheet rock celing but there you have it, I can patch em later when we move.

Other questions:

For the vertical feeds down to the machines, will they have to be mechanically fastened to the wye's in the attic? I can't see how a friction fit will hold off the effects of gravity.

Will a 2 h.p. woodsucker (or other) have sufficient draw to pull the chips from machines twenty to twenty five feet away up from the floor, all the way across the attic and then down again to the cyclone?

I figure once I decide what I'm gonna buy the job will have three stages:

1) assemble and install the cyclone
2) design and install the ducting and blast gates
3) find or create and install the dust hoods on the individual machines.

Thanks for the advice,
Jim Izat

[Terry Hatfield]

Yes you can run the ducts into the attic then back down. Other have done it this way before. Are you sure the lights can't be ducted around or shifted on the ceiling to clear a path???? I ran around my existing lights without much trouble at all.

The turns are going to be pretty close to the same in the attic as if they were on the ceiling so I don't think that is really an issue. Just make the runs as straight and short as possible. Limit the use of flex. It is the biggest robber of performance in your ducting. Change machine hood to 6" wherever you can. It makes a tremendous difference. Hoods can be made from cheap HVAC register boots.

The verticals can be screwed to the fitting in the attic and should also be attached closer to the tool. This is the same process as if they were on the ceiling. Bottom line is the verticals have to have support.

PVC we are using is S&D also called 2729. It is thin walled not thick. You need to get it at a plumbling supply or irrigation supply in your area. Call around for the best price. If you have trouble finding it call some plumbers in your area and ask where they get it. Make sure you ask what color the pipe is. It comes in green and white. All the fittings are white so the white pipe makes a more "attractive" system.

You can easily build blast gates(I have a buildup on Bill's site if you are interested). Speaking of building....anybody that can do woodworking CAN build a cyclone that will out perform what you can buy for less money...a lot less money. 2 hp systems will work but there are much better choices.

Check my pages on Bill's site for more information on the ducting. E-mail me if you have any specific questions. I'll be glad to help.

Thanks,

Terry

[Mike Johnson]

For a small fee ($20-50) Oneida will do a complete design of a system for you. If you buy a system from them, you get a credit for the design charges. If not, you still have the design to guide you on the portions you want to do yourself.

I have a 3HP Oneida system that works great. I have no affiliation with Oneida, but I am a very satisfied customer. If you want details, just send me an e-mail.

[Chris Teenor]

Jim,

I've had a very mediocre (sp?) system for some time, but the one thing I added at the first was a remote. I can't imagine running the thing without one and my shop is very small. Save walking back to a central switch.

[D.McDonnel "Mac"]

First the usual disclaimers regarding affiliation with Oneida. I'm just a very satisfied customer. They have bent over backwards helping me. Bill Pentz even recognizes their expertice in the field in many of his posts & e-mails & web site. Talk to Robert Witter or Jeffry Hill, they can help you out a lot.

Bill and Terry have come up with some good designs and it does not look too dificult to build your own for less. I didn't go that route as I had too many projects backing up awaiting completion of the shop. Read all of Bill's web site info, look at Terry's many postings and his site, then talk to the Oneida folks I mentioned. I'll send you an e-mail with more details.

[Bob Powers]

Jim,
I have no idea whether the Woodsucker is or is not a better buy than the Oneida. That ssaid, I have a few thoughts on the subject. I have an Oneida system that is about 7 or 8 years old. It has performed flawlessly throughout that time. It was originally installed in my basement shop, then moved to my new shop three years ago. I attribute most of the quality of performance, not to the hardware itself, but to the attention paid to the design of the system. I am sure that you have read many questions on the various woodworking forums about selection of ductwork, should it be plastic or metal, dimensions, will it do this if I do that? Oneida takes the guesswork out of all this. They provide complete design services and drawings based on your information about shop size, location and type of equipment, etc.

In short, it works. Why look for the least expensive hardware if you aren't certain about the design.

[Bart Leetch]

In short, it works. Why look for the least expensive hardware if you aren't certain about the design.


Because some don't have a whole lot of money & some like the challenge.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't reaaly fit into any category in oyur poll.

I have a remote starter for my DC. It turns on the DC by sensing current draw through the outlet that my saw and planer hook into. When I start either of these, The DC starts up. It shuts off when I stop the planer or saw. I can bypass it when I want the DC for other purposes.

If my present unit dies, I would seriously consider getting a remote control switch for it.

[Andrew Field]

I, like Lee also use an AC circuit sensor to turn on the DC. I built it using some pieces from a local electronics store and wouldn't be with out it. I also have a couple override switches to turn the DC on.

[Terry Hatfield]

You sent Jim to read ALL of Bill's stuff....guess we won't see him for a few weeks.

Seriously, Bill has much wonderful information. Worth the time it takes to read it.

Terry

[D.McDonnel "Mac"]

Reading ALL of Bill's web site? I guess that would be a daunting task! After the first 40 to 50 pages you can start skimming as Bill tends to repeat himself on some of the subsequent pages!

I always figure I better do my homework on something before I make a decision and part of that is to read and digest other's opinions and facts and try to come to a decision that makes sense for MY situation.

[Jim Izat]

Originally posted by Terry Hatfield
You sent Jim to read ALL of Bill's stuff....guess we won't see him for a few weeks.

Hey Terry and Mac,

Actually the very first thing I did do was read all of Bill's stuff, (I printed it all out and stapled it together by topic) and then I went and read all of Terry's stuff and then reread both again. Bill and Terry should write a book, there really isn't such a fine reference anywhere to be had in print. Right now I'm working on getting some drawings together to send to oneida for a quote. If I could just find a darn scanner.....

I believe it'll be worth the fifty bucks to see how they'd set up the system I'd have in mind. I can always translate it to PVC.

Jim Izat

[Bill Pentz]

Jim,

Was not quite sure what to say in response, so just saying thank you.

bill