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Thread: does this count as neandering

  1. #1

    Question does this count as neandering

    I'm making some shoe racks for my significant other, that uses slip joints to hold the boards together. She says it's my fault that she has so many shoes, but that's a story for another day.


    step one: glue the joint together



    step two: plane the excess tenon down. It took me a few tries to figure out how to plane the end grain without getting tear out (I think I should have taken another swipe or two on this particular joint).



    step three: Sand the joint smooth




    So does this count?
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    -Dan

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Sure it counts... As long as all the steps are done with hand tools and no battery or corde!!
    Nice joint! to make it easy to plane end graine, you can dampen it with alcohol or mineral spirit... and then to prevent tear out, beveled the exit edge!
    Last edited by David Gendron; 09-16-2009 at 2:52 AM. Reason: missed a word

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by David Gendron View Post
    Sure it counts... As long as all the steps are done with hand tools and no battery or corde!!
    Well I cheated a little then because, I used my table saw tenoning jig to make the mortise and tenon because I had 24 of them to make. I've learned 2 things from this project, cutting a tenon an 1/8" longer is to much, and I want a shoulder plane (fitting a tenon with sandpaper is no fun).
    -Dan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan sherman View Post
    fitting a tenon with sandpaper is no fun
    No it is not. If you've got a steady hand, a paring chisel works pretty well. I've also been eyeing one of those Shinto rasps they carry at Rockler for ~$20. Cheaper than a shoulder plane, for sure. Of course, far be it from me to discourage you from getting a shoulder plane... I want one, too. I just don't need it right now.

    Nice work on the trimming, btw. Everything looks neat and clean. Be sure to post some pics of the finished project, too!
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  5. #5
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    When you've got something sticking up this high, a Kugihiki Saw (japanese flush cut) will speed this process. Cut it off, and then two swipes with the plane, and you're set.

    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...63&cat=1,42884

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.
    Jr.
    Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
    NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
    Be who you are and say what you feel... because those that matter... don't mind...and those that mind...don't matter!
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by harry strasil View Post
    FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.
    Interesting, I have not heard of that one before. All my books call it a slip joint or an open mortise and tenon.
    -Dan

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Toebbe View Post
    No it is not. If you've got a steady hand, a paring chisel works pretty well. I've also been eyeing one of those Shinto rasps they carry at Rockler for ~$20. Cheaper than a shoulder plane, for sure. Of course, far be it from me to discourage you from getting a shoulder plane... I want one, too. I just don't need it right now.

    Nice work on the trimming, btw. Everything looks neat and clean. Be sure to post some pics of the finished project, too!

    I also prefer rasps to a shoulder plane to fine tune tenons, I would also suggest that you look into a float. Like the shinto rasp they have no teeth on the side to mess up the shoulder of the tenon. Check out Lie Nielsen under the joinery floats area of the web site.

    Scott

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Pearson View Post
    I would also suggest that you look into a float. Like the shinto rasp they have no teeth on the side to mess up the shoulder of the tenon. Check out Lie Nielsen under the joinery floats area of the web site.
    I played in the shop during lunch today, and I think I found a way to thin tenon cheeks that doesn't require me to purchase new tools. I took a swipe or two across the cheek with my block plane. I then went back and made a paring cut with a chisel to clean up what the block plane couldn't reach (1/8" or so).
    -Dan

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry strasil View Post
    FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.
    +1 for Harry...

    Here are a couple of pretty good pictures of the two basic variations, corner and "T":

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Young View Post
    +1 for Harry...

    Here are a couple of pretty good pictures of the two basic variations, corner and "T":

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint

    This is from my book.
    http://books.google.com/books?id=30q...0tenon&f=false

    O well, one more term to add to the memory bank.
    -Dan

  12. #12
    For those that are interested, I finally finished the shoe racks, and posted a right up about them on my blog.

    http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/11/...ed-shoe-racks/
    -Dan

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry strasil View Post
    FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.
    I've also seen it spelled "bridle" joint. Not sure of the etymology, and the only big dictionary I have doesn't list the term under either spelling.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Dan: looks good from here, but I have to ask you why would you sand it after plaining. I hate sanding so I would plain it flush and leave it at that. With a sharp blade, which yours looks like it is, the planed surface is better than scratched up by sandpaper.
    Cheers Ron

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Petley View Post
    Dan: looks good from here, but I have to ask you why would you sand it after plaining.
    My planing skills aren't up to snuff yet, at least that's what I assume the problem was. If I tried to plain the end grain flush, I got tear out in the long grain. Thus to avoid the tear out, I planed it close and then finished up with the sanding block.
    -Dan

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