Skip
That design seems to be for .250 material, at least that is what I measure the slots as.
Pete
Skip
That design seems to be for .250 material, at least that is what I measure the slots as.
Pete
Skip is correct. The depth is 1/8 or more accurately from 1/8 to 17/128.
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
Yes - Wood is seldom the exact thickness. So I prefer to sand any overlap flush rather than occasionally being short. As I work these projects, I've been slightly increasing this depth behond 1/8 to compensate for the variable thickness.
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
It doesn't help with the "artistic" part of the job, but there's this oldie-but-goodie for generating the raw box:
http://www.shaddysengraving.com/lase...fingerbox.html
For oddball stuff, I use the 'democube' option (it's the only one that puts joints on all twelve edges). Then do a 'break curves apart' to get edge components of whatever size that fit tightly together.
Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.