What chain saw to buy?

[Mike Cruz]

HA! You want to see a good one. NOT paying attention a couple of winters ago, I was cutting up THIS tree. A red oak about 36" at the base (yes, I felled this tree and cut it up entirely with my 8 year old 20" Poulan). While cutting one of the limbs (and kinda in a hurry to "get it done"...stupid, stupid, stupid!) I didn't pay attention to the stress on this limb. I was standing on the wrong side of it. When I mad the cut, the limb swung right at me, catching me right in the middle of the left shin. In an instant, my leg kicked back (from the force of a 6" baseball bat swung by a home run hitter), I threw the saw away from me and limped away...the knot on my shin swelling as I watched. I got SO lucky. Where it hit my shin, my leg still flexed back with the impact normally. Had it hit about 6" or so higher (up my leg) my knee would have hyperextended. I've already had surgury on that knee once. The knee was sore for a couple weeks from the impact, though. As a matter of fact, the entire leg and left side of my back was sore from the impact for a while. PS I was standing on the side where my dog is sitting.

I measured the movement...the limb moved about 4 feet from where it started (on the other side of that smaller tree) to where it rested. Of course, when it released, I'm sure it swung further. My left leg was probably about 12 - 18 inches from it when it let loose.

BE CAREFUL. DON'T RUSH. CUTTING WOOD CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS OR FATAL. Had that hit me in the chest, it likely would have broken ribs or worse.

I have to admit, I lost ALL confidence for reading stress after that. It took quite a while for me to regain it. Compacency leads it injury.

[Alan DuBoff]

I have a few chainsaws, all are Husqvarna.

I have a small Husky 336 which is a limbing saw, and I have a 16" 1/4" pitch bar/chain on it, this is used for carving and detail work.

I also have a Husky 359, quite a bit more power, tuned to 14000 rpm currently, this saw is on the verge of being a weapon. It is to be respected.

However, I recently picked up a Husky 350 with a scorched piston/cylinder off craigslist for $25, and bought a piston for it from Bailey's for $30. I rebuilt the saw by using sodium hydroxide (lye, common in drain and oven cleaner) to remove the aluminum from the cylinder, then I ported the intake and exhaust ports by widening them with a Dremel using a carbide burr tip.

I opened up the muffler more by adding a couple deflectors I got for a Husky 288, from Bailey's for a few bucks, and added a couple layers of stainless steel screen to act as the spark arrestor.

Bottom line, this is one bad boy, runs healthy, and a great little saw.

The size of saw you need will depend on the work needing to be done. If you plan to use it on an Alaskan Mlll (or similar) you will want something in the 90cc-100cc, IMO.

I was using a 45cc saw to cut the joinery on this log home a while back, and it worked dandy! This is white pine, 16"-24" tip/butt, and as such is pretty soft. For similar sized fir, I would want to use a 60cc saw, at minimum.




Here's the similar, but slightly bigger Husky 350 I rebuilt recently:

(linky pic to detail gallery of rebuild and porting)



Lastly, be careful. Chainsaws are DANGEROUS and you can easily cut an arm or leg off, so BE CAREFUL! Respect these tools, and use them safely! Be aware of the kickback zone, most here know about kickback on their table saw, but with a chainsaw the bar/chain are whipped around at the user and why most all saws have a brake on the front to stop the chain when the brake is whipped back at your hand. Chainsaws are tools to be respected...my $0.02...

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

Why exactly is this a POS saw? I was a small engine mechanic for about 10 years. (Long ago) I'm not going to say I'm an expert by any means, judging from those pics other people post cutting trees. I can say that I've seen a lot of saws, when they aren't in the best of shape. I have a Farm Boss, and I can say it's the best saw I've owned. Better than almost every saw I've seen. Certainly better than an Echo or Shindaiwa. Better IMO than the Husky Rancher. I would say it would be hard to find a better saw for 400 bucks. Period. If you compare it to a 066, yeah, it is a POS. The 066 price is hard to swallow for the firewood cutter though.

[Alan DuBoff]

Why exactly is this a POS saw?

Well, doesn't it have those crappy rubber washer thingies for anti-vibe, rather than real springs? The 290 is probably one of the most beat up saws of all, not sure why but a lot of folks do not like them. The rubber washers are one.

Others say they are heavy and underpowered, for their rating. They weigh about 13 lbs. and although they are rated for 56.5cc people say it doesn't feel nearly like it.

It is also a clamshell design, this means that part of the saw is encased in plastic, rather than the more solid style of a metal cylinder/crankcase. This is not a bad thing, I have a saw that is a clamshell, but it is a much different type of saw than the 290. Also, the 290 is not a pro quality saw, it's designed for occasional use.

One can get a better saw for the same price, and I think why most people don't care for them.

You asked...but it's all relative and the 290 could fit someone's needs just fine...

EDIT: to add a recommendation, Husqvarna 445 has a list price of $309, I think a way better saw that handles much better. I have used the 445 and after it is broken in, it's a nice little saw, and only about 10 lbs. If you had more money, I'd say get a 346xp, but you'll spend about $450 to get one of them.

[Mike Cruz]

Hehe, funny that you mention springs being a high quality anti-vibe feature. That is exactly what my 20" Poulan had. I doubt you would call that a quality chainsaw. Likely you wouldn't even consider it a chainsaw at all...

[Matt Ranum]

Alan when you want to upgrade the 336 look for a 338 "California Special" that sucker has some snort. It says "California" right on the brake/chain cover. We've used the Husky top handles a lot over the years and the 338 has quite a bit more torque than the 336. When you compare the normal 338 to the special version, it is about like comparing the 338 to the 336. The "special" has a larger displacement engine if my memory serves.

We've also had 2 350's and were/are great runners except they both had the muffler bolts loosen up unexpectedly which turns out to be a common problem with them and their Johnsered cousin. They used a hollow muffler with no support for the bolts for a time. Maybe thats what led to the scored piston in the one you picked up.

[Alan DuBoff]

Alan when you want to upgrade the 336 look for a 338 "California Special" that sucker has some snort. It says "California" right on the brake/chain cover. We've used the Husky top handles a lot over the years and the 338 has quite a bit more torque than the 336. When you compare the normal 338 to the special version, it is about like comparing the 338 to the 336. The "special" has a larger displacement engine if my memory serves.

Actually the 336 is like the 339, it's a rear handle. It has the same engine as the 334T which you might be confusing it with, but it is a rear handle, like the 339xp. It is not made anymore, and is only 35.2cc.

That said, would love to see a cali edition of the 339xp, since the Cali version you mention is 45cc as I recall (338xpt Cali Edition).

We've also had 2 350's and were/are great runners except they both had the muffler bolts loosen up unexpectedly which turns out to be a common problem with them and their Johnsered cousin. They used a hollow muffler with no support for the bolts for a time. Maybe thats what led to the scored piston in the one you picked up.

The 350s will take a 346xp top end on them, same bolt pattern. I may end up doing that, but this seems to run pretty healthy now, I like it.

Truth be told, I didn't need it, I bought the blown 350 to learn how to work on 2-stroke engines. I wanted to mod the muffler on my 359 and possibly port it, but wanted to learn on something else as I need it for bucking the ends of the logs I'm building with.

Here's the 336 with a 16" quarter tip carving bar:



Here's the first thing I did with it, playing around:



I just got a loop of this fullhouse chain for it that I want to test.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Well, doesn't it have those crappy rubber washer thingies for anti-vibe, rather than real springs? The 290 is probably one of the most beat up saws of all, not sure why but a lot of folks do not like them. The rubber washers are one.

Others say they are heavy and underpowered, for their rating. They weigh about 13 lbs. and although they are rated for 56.5cc people say it doesn't feel nearly like it.

It is also a clamshell design, this means that part of the saw is encased in plastic, rather than the more solid style of a metal cylinder/crankcase. This is not a bad thing, I have a saw that is a clamshell, but it is a much different type of saw than the 290. Also, the 290 is not a pro quality saw, it's designed for occasional use.

One can get a better saw for the same price, and I think why most people don't care for them.

You asked...but it's all relative and the 290 could fit someone's needs just fine...

EDIT: to add a recommendation, Husqvarna 445 has a list price of $309, I think a way better saw that handles much better. I have used the 445 and after it is broken in, it's a nice little saw, and only about 10 lbs. If you had more money, I'd say get a 346xp, but you'll spend about $450 to get one of them.

Um, where is the $309 Rancher price? Factory reconditioned? Is it all aluminum? No. Not saying Amazon is the best place, but they list it as $360. It's smaller in displacement, and I've used one. AND the qoute is the 290 a laugh of a saw. It may not be the best, if you read my post, but for the money, it's hardly a laugh. It's NOT a pro saw. Yes, you can pay more and get more. If you are a pro, I wouldn't get it. But, I wouldn't get the Rancher either.

[Alan DuBoff]

Um, where is the $309 Rancher price? Factory reconditioned? Is it all aluminum? No. Not saying Amazon is the best place, but they list it as $360. It's smaller in displacement, and I've used one. AND the qoute is the 290 a laugh of a saw. It may not be the best, if you read my post, but for the money, it's hardly a laugh. It's NOT a pro saw. Yes, you can pay more and get more. If you are a pro, I wouldn't get it. But, I wouldn't get the Rancher either.

Maybe you misunderstood my post. I didn't recommend the Rancher, I was recommending the 445. The Rancher is the 455.

On the Husqvarna site it list the 445 for $309, you can get it cheaper, slightly, but there is not a lot of margin for the dealers on those low end saws. I have one dealer by me that charges over list for Husqvarna, so I don't shop there. I have used the 445 and it's a good saw, it is substantial less in weight than the 290.

The 445 is not a pro saw either, but it's 3 lbs. lighter and will most likely keep up with a 290 in the cut.

Anyway, you asked why it's a POS, I answered why I believe people think they are, I don't own a 290 and I'm sure it's a great saw. Didn't mean to hit a hot button for 'ya...next time don't ask.

[David Keller NC]

Stephen - Something tells me you've long ago stopped reading this thread, but for what you're trying to do (bucking felled trees less than 2 feet in diameter), buy a Stihl or a Husqvarna with a 16" bar and a displacement of about 50cc. The Stihl MS 270 through MS 290 (i.e., the "farm boss") is about right.

I do a lot of heavy-duty sawing, and own 3 Stihl saws, the biggest of which is a monster 066 Magnum (now the MS 660). The smallest is the 290 Farm Boss. Many folks make the mistake of buying a chainsaw that's too big and with a bar that's too long for what they want to do. Not only is weilding a saw that's too big for the job considerably more dangerous than using a smaller saw, it's also a lot more work, as you have to deal with the extra weight for the entire time that you're sawing.

And, a word of warning. Most injuries when cutting wood isn't a result of contact with the running chain (though those are often severe or fatal accidents), it's from kick-back of a limb or trunk that has pressure on it until released by the cut. Particularly with american hardwoods like wet oak, ash or maple, just a small 6" diameter limb can weigh in at about 30 lbs. per foot of length. Think of standing still while a major league ball player swings a bat at your body with full force, and you'll get the idea.

To that end, you need to at least have a discussion with an experienced sawyer to learn how to "read" the tree and learn where to make the cuts so that you don't get whacked by spring-back. And I would highly recommend blowing the extra $150 or so for a set of cut-resistant coveralls and a hard-hat with built in hearing and vision protection. The coveralls may be hot and somewhat bulky, but it will stop a running chain in the event of a stray touch. You'll still likely get cut, but it will be the difference between stitches and major surgery to repair the damage.

[Brian Brightwell]

Sorry folks, I didn't reply sooner, I was out cutting trees. In my post I did not say the Stihl Farmboss was crap. I said it was not a great saw,which it is not. Even for the money it is not a good choice. It is not a good choice for the reasons Alan Duboff mentioned.
I stand by my statement that some replies give good information and some are crap.
I think the original post would be better served by researching this topic on the Arborist Site under chainsaws. Those people are very knowledgeable about chainsaws but most probably know little about plunge routers!!!


Husky 262xp 261 l65 Dolmar 5100 7900 Redmax3800

[Alan DuBoff]

Hehe, funny that you mention springs being a high quality anti-vibe feature. That is exactly what my 20" Poulan had. I doubt you would call that a quality chainsaw. Likely you wouldn't even consider it a chainsaw at all...

Didn't mean to ignore you, I missed this back up the thread. There's a lot of folks that use and love Poulan saws. I like the Poulan bar oil (green container), it's really sticky and stays on the bar and it's cheap. There is nothing wrong with the Poulans, and now they are owned by Husky. Sure, if you take a "wild thing", don't sharpen the chain and are cutting through nails, dirt, and gravel, it's probably not gonna perform too well...a tool is relative and we all pick the ones we end up owning.

Sorry folks, I didn't reply sooner, I was out cutting trees. In my post I did not say the Stihl Farmboss was crap. I said it was not a great saw,which it is not. Even for the money it is not a good choice.

It wouldn't be on my short list either, but it might work out for the original poster, IMO, who knows. The thing we notice is that people get very defensive over something they use, which works. In that regard I'm sure that folks have Poulan wild things and are perfectly happy with them, I see them for sale on craigslist all the time, so they sell a LOT of them.

Suffice to say that the 290 is a better saw than the wild thing, IMO, and it seems to work fine for Kyle. In that regards, more power to him, a reasonably priced saw that gets the job done for him. The weight obviously doesn't bother him either. Life is relative...

I stand by my statement that some replies give good information and some are crap.

This is true of most all things on the net.(worth every penny you pay for it)

I think the original post would be better served by researching this topic on the Arborist Site under chainsaws. Those people are very knowledgeable about chainsaws but most probably know little about plunge routers!!!

Some might surprise you at what they know about woodworking, I do hang out there...my only comment, you had better wear your nomex suit if you go over there, the chainsaw forum is not for the meek. Be warned...

Husky 262xp 261 l65 Dolmar 5100 7900 Redmax3800

Nice collection of saws there Brian. Lots of people consider the 5100/7900 to be one of the best 2-saw plans going.

I hear those 3800s really open up with a muffler mod.

[Mike Cruz]

That is EXACTLY what happened to me. I don't know if you read it, but I posted it in this thread...with pics of where the limb ended up. The limb WAS on the right side of the ASH (the one with my dog sitting to the left of the limb and the Ash.) I got VERY lucky. That is what happens when you rush, get over confindent, and have other things on your mind. (Another) lesson learned.

[Phillip Marsh]

Stihl is the pro's choice for good reason. Tough and lots of power for their weight and most important - easy to find spare parts or get repaired. Check around your area for people doing chain saw repair and see what they work on and repair and tend to stock parts for at their shop.

Important to also match the chain for the type of wood you expect to be cutting - seasoned wood and green trees require different cutting tip designs to get the most out of your chain saw without overworking it or yourself.

[Alan DuBoff]

That is EXACTLY what happened to me. I don't know if you read it, but I posted it in this thread...with pics of where the limb ended up. The limb WAS on the right side of the ASH (the one with my dog sitting to the left of the limb and the Ash.) I got VERY lucky. That is what happens when you rush, get over confindent, and have other things on your mind. (Another) lesson learned.

This is exactly why homeowners need to be aware of the dangers of felling.

Worse is what is known as the barber chair, where a tree is leaning and someone wants to fell it some other way than it is leaning. As the stress in the tree unwinds, the base is often whipped up and the tree spins around.

It is important to understand that professional arborists have educated themselves and understand trees better than the average homeowner, and there are often times when it is better to hire a professional, in the end it can save you money.

This is also why you hear about people that go out and buy a 290 farm boss and the next thing you know they fell a tree on their own house...

Know and understand your limitations, the mistakes that happen when felling trees are not insignificant...

Lucky I don't fell trees very often at all, the timber I'm working with has been felled already. This guy was lucky he didn't do more damage. Look how small the wedge cut is on the opposite side, where he wants the tree to fall! It should be more like 1/3rd to 1/2 of the diameter of the tree. I'm not sure how to embed the video, but here's a link to youtube.