What chain saw to buy?

[Stephen Saar]

I'm looking at buying a nicer chain saw to cut down trees that have already been felled into sizes I can more easily transport, and for cutting things at my house in to more manageable sizes for turning, or other wood products. I started turning recently and I'm starting to find different places for free wood, but I figured I'd ask here to see what peoples opinions were on decent chain saws. What I really want is something that will cut pretty quickly. My dad bought some second hand husqvarnas of the pro series and they seem pretty decent, but I'm not really familiar with chain saw brands so I don't know who else makes chain saws. I don't have a set budget since I'm not sure what a decent chain saw would cost, but I'm starting out at looking at chain saws for less than $300. Also are chain saws like most saws where the blade they give you sucks, and you pretty much need to go buy a new one?

Thanks.

-Stephen

[David L Roberts]

Lot of unanswered questions...typical diameter of the trees being foremost. You need an engine (displacement) and bar length to handle the type of work you're going to be doing. Another factor is the frequency of use. If this is once-a-year gathering of project pieces, you might be smarter to rent a saw. (if you do, it will probably be a Husky or a Stihl.) If you're thinking is in the $300 range, you're already committed to buying a new tool. And, in that range, you can find a good Husquevarna or Stihl, both regarded as among the best. Echo also is well regarded. Echo and Husky have BORG versions and "pro"; Stihl, not available at the BORGS, is top-end, only. You do get what you pay for. In that price range, you'll get adequate power, good vibration control, easy, dependable starting, easy chain tensioning, etc., etc. Go to an outdoor power equipment dealer and tell them what you want to do...they'll give yo some good advice about size, power, etc. Then you can decide whether you want high-end or make a trip to the BORG.

[Stephen Saar]

I'm not really certain on the size, but I would imagine that most of the trees I would be dealing with would be less than 24" with the occasional tree that's between 24-36 inches. Anything bigger than that and I'll just take the branches.

-Stephen

[jim hedgpeth]

90 * of saws now days come with low kick back chains, bars, and other guards and such. That does not necessarily mean they wont cut well as is. Just like any other cutting tool, just make sure its sharp and tuned properly.

Husky makes some of the best "cheap"er saws IMHO. Stihl is supposed to be the TOP brand. I have an old Homelite that has stomped several Stihls in my area. Key word in that sentence being "old". Just goes to show that proper maintenance and tuning go a long way, same as any tool.

You didn't say what size saw you are looking for? Just a little 16" or something a bit bigger?

If I was to buy a new saw right now I'd probably get a Husky "ranch king" I think is what they call their good "budget" model. If I remember right Rural King here has them for abuot $300, w/ 24" bar. Thats plenty big for most stuff.

Jim

PS, Chainsaws are another of my hobbies. If you have other ?? feel free to ask.

[Jim Hill]

Stephen,

I bought a Stihl MS250 a couple years ago to trim trees, and cut them down on my property. I went to the local Stihl dealer and spent quite a bit of time looking at the saws, explaining what I needed and listening to the dealer suggestions. I ultimately bought the saw just the way the dealer recommended. My saw was fitted with an 18 inch bar and a standard Stihl safety chain. The stock chain is good for a homeowner, and I bought a backup chain to use when the original chain is getting sharpened. If the saw died today, I would have no complaints on the money I spent for the saw; it has saved me much more. I have used it more than I could have imagined. I've actually been thinking about stepping up to a larger saw. Whatever you buy, don't forget the safety equipment you should use with a chain saw, i.e., chaps, head and face protection, hearing protection, and good work boots-mine are steel-toed. Oh, and by the way, I found out that the dealers sometimes will work with you on the price. I bought my saw as cheaply as I could have bought a borg Huskie. Dealer knowledge, as well as having a service dept readily available if needed, along with professional instruction seemed to provide the best value to me.

Jim

[Larry Frank]

I have a Stihl and have been very pleased. I have had it for a quite a few years and use it occassionally and it starts easily every time. Two years ago, I gave my daughter the Stihl MS250 for Christmas. She had a lot of trees to trim and some to cut down. She has had very good luck and the easy2start system has been good for her.

[jim hedgpeth]

Jim Hill (too many Jims around here) is right about service, Stihl dealers are everywhere. That can be important if you are not familiar with working on chainsaws.

Here are my keepers that I don't trade off. Isn't the little one cute.
Homelite C71 (stock) w/32" bar and little 16" homelite xl "limb saw".
Best of both worlds.

[John Keeton]

You are going to need a good size chainsaw to support a 36"+ bar. I doubt you could get a Stihl the appropriate size within your budget, although in my opinion Stihl is the saw to buy. My first one lasted 15 years, and would have lasted longer if I had not loaned it out!! I now have the Stihl Farm Boss and love it.

The MS441 is a 36" bar, I believe, and retails for over $800. You could do with less of a bar, but it is dangerous, and your saw won't last long.

[Dan Ewalt]

I'd recommend a Stihl MS290 (Farm Boss) with a 20" bar. It's a nice sized saw that will handle a 20" bar no problem and doesn't weigh a ton. It's pretty close to your price range, just a little over. I do a lot of cutting, two of my friends have sawmills and we seem to be always getting logs somewhere. The Stihl has not missed a beat and I have done everything from limbing to cutting a couple of 30" poplars down.

I'll bet it will outlast you or me.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html

Dan

[Matt Meiser]

I have a Stihl. I only need mine for property maintenance. I used to borrow my dad's 70's Craftsman which was a good saw but worn out and I had to spend more time fiddling than cutting. I hated to spend the money as rarely as I use it but after reading about cheap saws only lasting a few uses I didn't want to waste money either. My local Stihl dealer got me a deal on a slightly used saw. They sold it new to someone who decided they needed a bigger saw. They took it back in partial trade and resold it to me with a warranty through them. I believe I saved about 25%.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Chainsaws are like table saws. If you don't have a reasonably sharp chain on your chainsaw or a sharp blade on your table saw neither will work as well as it could/should, regardless the brand.

I think the primary issue with chainsaws is starting them and keeping them running. I had two cheapies that started OK when cold but if they died while running they refused to start until the engine got cold again. No such problems with my Stihl. But if you are going to have just occasional use a cheaper one may suffice.

[Mike Cruz]

Sorry, didn't have time to read everyone's posts before responding to this, so if it is dittoing anyone else, sorry.

Stihl, Stihl, Stihl. CAN'T go wrong with them. I bought a barely used Farm Boss with a 20" chain this spring for $250 off CL. Great buy, runs great. Even at full price, WELL worth the $369 new.

I cut about 4 cords of wood a year for fire wood. That is why I got this saw.

That said, if all you are using this saw for is to cut up wood for turning and cutting up for taking to the mill, I would be perfectly comfortable recommending the saw that I used before I just purchased this Stihl. It was a Poulan with a 20" bar. It lasted 8 years for me...with minimal servicing.

The major difference between the two saws is NOT speed in the cut. (My brother and I cut side by side...me with my Poulan and he with his Stihl Farm Boss. We cut at almost identical speeds. The TRUE difference is..................comfort. There is WAY more vibration and WAY more fatigue with the Poulan.

As for chains, yes there is a difference. A Stihl chain will hold its edge longer and resharpen better than a cheap chain. (Better steel in the Stihl is all I can attribute it to.) IF you get a saw other than Stihl, see if a Stihl chain will fit...not as easy as it sounds...be sure to test it BEFORE you actually need it.

Hope that helps. If you have any other questions or need clarification, feel free to PM me.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I just got a Stihl Farm Boss too. It's no doubt the best saw I have owned. (An OLD homelite 16" would be second.) Cut a couple trees, and a truckload of monkey pod into lathe sized pieces. I'd say the trunk was 30" across, so it will fill your needs. It will also stretch your budget of 300 bucks a tad too. You can keep an eye out for used ones. BUT, if you don't know a lot about chainsaws, I'd stay away from used saws, unless you know and trust the seller.

[Mike Cruz]

Agreed about the used chainsaw thing. Beware of...oh well, heck, if you are willing to spend $300, put out the extra $70 and get the Farm Boss new. It will do more than what you are asking of it. It you NEED to spend less, get the Poulan for under $200 (or around that).

[Harlan Coverdale]

Stihl and the non-Borg Husky models are both well respected brands among the professional tree guys. Whichever brand you choose, I'd suggest finding a local dealer who you like, then going with the brand he can service the best.