How would you make this table top?

[Dan Mitchell]

I'm planning to make the coffee table in the pic below. The author shapes the top in 2 steps, 1st tapering the edges on the TS, then cutting the curves on the BS. I have done the tapering bit on smaller tops using a tall auxiliary TS fence I made, though for this table, cutting the short ends, with the full length of the table in the air, seems like it could be a little unwieldy. I also have a nice band saw for the curve cuts, though it looks like the author may have had a helper to steady/support the long top as he made the cuts, and I really don't have anyone to assist with that at the moment. So I'm wondering if there might be a way to accomplish these 2 steps with a router +/or router table, maybe using a raised panel bit for the tapering and a template cut from Masonite or something similar for the curves, or by some other means. Anyone have any ideas? The table in the article was Rosewood veneer over a Maple substrate, I will probably use solid Cherry.

TIA

Dan

[Jamie Buxton]

You could taper the edges of the lumber on the table saw before you glue it to the plywood.

[Dan Mitchell]

You could taper the edges of the lumber on the table saw before you glue it to the plywood.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I'm following you, the top will be a glue up of solid cherry boards, probably 3.

[Jamie Buxton]

..the top will be a glue up of solid cherry boards, probably 3...

That's no the greatest construction approach. Those three boards will expand and contract across the width with changes in ambient humidity. The boards at the ends will not change in length; wood breathes only across the grain, not with the grain. If you glue the end boards firmly to the three solid boards, you'll risk splitting the three boards or breaking the glue bonds between them.

[Brian Kent]

I would use a hand plane at an angle.

[Dan Mitchell]

That's no the greatest construction approach. Those three boards will expand and contract across the width with changes in ambient humidity. The boards at the ends will not change in length; wood breathes only across the grain, not with the grain. If you glue the end boards firmly to the three solid boards, you'll risk splitting the three boards or breaking the glue bonds between them.

It's just 3 boards glued up in the usual manner, no boards at the ends.

[george wilson]

Actually,the wood changes across the grain ABOUT 16 times more than it does with the grain. Obviously varies.

[Dan Mitchell]

Actually,the wood changes across the grain ABOUT 16 times more than it does with the grain. Obviously varies.

This really isn't an issue here, this is simply a typical 3 board top glue up. My concerns relate to shaping the top, not gluing it up or stability.

[Stephen Reid]

I would use a hand plane at an angle.

+ 1 on what Brain said.Cut your outside on the bandsaw then bevel your edges with plane.It looks like the long side has a tapered bevel so you might need a spoke shave for those spots.hope this helps

[Rob Fisher]

I would use a hand plane at an angle.

What he said for the angles.

Also you could cut the curves by hand, with a hand saw or with a power (tailed) jig saw. Refine the curves with hand planes, spokeshaves, whatever you like.

Rob

[Bob Carreiro]

Hello Dan,

I think you've come up with what to do, i.e., using a router table. Do you have a panel raiser for this job?

Another way would be to make a jig for the top in an upside-down position and use either a hand-held electric planer, or router with a wide bit coupled with a sled.

I like the design. I am unsure of the grain orientation on glue up. It should alteranate.

good luck,
Bob

[Peter Quinn]

Do you have a shaper? This is the kind of thing a shaper excels at. I have done larger tops at work with a very stout tall fence on the TS, it generally takes two or three people to make it go well, and often at least one guy is standing on the TS top! The safety first crowd will cry foul but it works fine if you can assemble three guys that are on the same page.

Another approach to similar profiles I have used is to spin a panel raiser freehand in a big router with a big offset base, sort of a small router table if you will. Not sure you can find a panel raiser for the router that will do an 1 3/4" profile as shown in the drawing? I believe that would equal a 4 3/4" router. You might come close with a slightly smaller bit. I would probably cut the curves first and run the profile second as I prefer that look to the reverse. With a shaper you could do it either way.

I could also imagine a router on a large trammel with the router set to the bevel angle with a shim. Have you tried searching Tage Frid links in the FWW archives for techniques relative to this table? I'm pretty sure he did a number of things like this with great success.

[Earl Kelly]

Dan,

A panel raiser bit in a router table can cut the bevel. To get the same look as the drawings the bevel must be cut first, when the panel is sq., then cut the curved sides and ends.

To help with the curved sides and ends I would make a pattern out of 1/4" material and cut the top close to the line on the bandsaw, then clean it up using a router and the pattern. This should allow for nothing more than a light sanding or scraping needed to cleanup the edges and bevels.

Are you veneering the top and bottom like the original? That's what really makes this design stand out, seeing the contrasting woods.

Earl

[Dan Mitchell]

Thanks for the replies. At the moment I have only one relatively decent hand plane, a small block plane, and I'm not that practiced using it. I'm fairly comfortable doing the taper on the TS, which I've done before on smaller tops, but given the length, I am thinking the router table/panel raiser/router & pattern approach might be the best for me & my shop.

The table is from a FWW article by Tage Frid. I really like the design. If anyone else is interested, I can email you a PDF of the article.

Thanks for all the great input.

Dan

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I have a question about the instructions. Why would he suggest orienting all three boards with the end grain the same way...I've always heard the opposite....when did this become a good idea?