Cross Cut Station Layout

[Ben Hatcher]

I'm building a cross cut station on a 16' wall. I planned on putting my radial arm saw in the center of that section so that I'd have a bit over 8' on either side. Last night (after I'd already framed the central saw location ) I started wondering if it would be better to move it a few feet off center so that I have a longer cutting capacity. I mostly build furniture and do home improvement stuff. I’ve had the need in the past to break down 12’ boards, but I can’t recall ever needing a finished piece longer than 8’. I kind of wanted to use the extra space on the right hand side for “future expansion.”

What do you guys think? Is 8’ on either side fine, or would 10’ to the left and 6’ to the right be a better design?

[Cliff Holmes]

I'd do the 10/6 or maybe even 11/5.

[Rod Sheridan]

Ben, it depends upon your layout. however I would find a 12 foot piece of oak too unwieldy to worry about.

I'd break it down with a circular saw rather than wrestle it around a saw station.

If you want to make dadoes using your RAS I'd leave it in the middle so you can make left and right gables.

If you're right handed and want to make an asymmetrical saw station, I'd make the left side longer, reverse if you're left handed.

regards, Rod.

[Ben Hatcher]

Rod, I'm not sure what you mean by left and right gables. Can't I do that by flipping the board or moving the saw?

[Mitchell Andrus]

Do you really need full length support? I don't. I cut an awful lot of stuff with 48" on either side of the blade. Longer than that and I forgo the stops and mark with a pencil. I've set up temp support for longer stuff only a few times.

[Ben Hatcher]

Mitchell, No, I don't need full length support. I plan on making this a multi-tool bench that will also hold my drill press, grinder, belt sander, and a yet to be purchased mortiser.

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod, I'm not sure what you mean by left and right gables. Can't I do that by flipping the board or moving the saw?

When the saw enters the workpiece, you'll get a lot of tearout.

Presumably that would be on the backside of the cabinet, so one gable would be cut on the right of the saw, the other on the left.

Regards, Rod.

[Wayne Cannon]

I would definitely offset the saw -- maybe even 12' and 4' -- if you have a door, window, or hole in the wall you can use for the unusual cases. I saw a shop in which a small flip-down door had been cut in the wall for just such cases.

Lots of trim molding comes in only 16' lengths. It's desirable to be able to cut short lengths from long boards. It's also desirable to trim damaged or checked ends without always having to swing the work piece around.

[Russ Boyd]

I agree with Wayne. That's the way I'm set up and it works very well. I do a lot of the same things you are describing. You will be limited by going 8/8. As far as the other tools, they can set back slightly, be movable on the bench or you could build a flip up front extension for the miter saw wings.

[Ben Hatcher]

Wayne, the hole in the wall idea is fantastic! Thanks.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Ditto Wayne + Russ. No RAS, but my CMS has 14' right (8' table/stop, and temp supports past that) + 6' left. I do end up with a lot of 12'-14' rough lumber. I could rough-cut with circular or jig saw, but that's one small PITA off the list. And - yes - I know - R-to-L is kinda backward, but it was the only way to get it to fit.

BTW - I have those galvanized adjustable lumber racks under the 14' clear span - works out great for storage. You might want to consider how you are going to use the space UNDER the tables as part of you design decision, but sounds like you have done that with the other equip you are planning for.

[Sean Nagle]

I have a similar wall for my SCMS (as well as other tools) that is only about 13' long. I have 8'+ to the left and 4'+ to the right of the blade.

I've built furniture and cabinets in my relatively small basement shop (425 sq ft) for over 15 years. What I've found is that I never have produced a finished member that is any longer than 84". These longest pieces were for bed rails and bed posts (pencil post). Most everything is always much smaller. My whole shop is arranged with an optimum boardlength of about 4', though I can move machines slightly to accommodate that 7' board. My first cut is always to get the board to a manageable length.

[Wayne Cannon]

Something else to think about is space BEHIND the cutoff benches. A radial-arm saw, miter saw, and especially a sliding miter saw all have quite a bit of space behind the work piece. Adding dust collection takes even more space behind the saw. This space is hard to utilize effectively. Under-bench cabinets (as I have) would be very deep. I'm considering storing long lumber there, but it's only reasonably accessible from the end.

Any suggestions?

[Ben Hatcher]

Wayne, I had considered that. The fence will be about a foot from the wall, and that space would be perfect for a sand paper stand, battery charger, etc. I’m going to resist the urge to do that because my assembly area is on the opposite end of the shop, 25’ away. The key principle in good workstation design is to locate both the inputs and outputs of a process close to the workstation. So, I’m going to store my long lumber above the saw and the cutoffs below. Those scraps destined for the fire pit will go in a bin below the saw. Useful cutoffs less than 3’ long will be stored in a grid of shelves below the bench on the right. To the left of the saw, the bench will not be as deep since my space is a bit tight on that side. Besides, that bench’s main purpose is outfeed support. I think that I’ll eventually do drawers and cabinets under this shallower bench to store accessories for the tools I plan to use on this end of the shop. The space above/behind the fence and below the lumber rack will probably end up being house paint storage.