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Thread: tenon removal from piece

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    i use a vacuum chuck, but some of my peices i just finish the tenon to make it into a foot
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Sarasota, Fl
    Posts
    1,916
    Same as Mike with the Cole jaws. I use my small impact Bosch drill and I can be very gentle with the slotted screws. Basically as soon as the screw hits home I abruptly stop drilling. I used to go nuts trying to do all the screws by hand.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wimberley, Texas
    Posts
    2,828
    Friction chuck, jam chuck, doughnut chuck as needed, in that order of preference.
    Richard in Wimberley

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Kennewick, WA
    Posts
    349

    Cole jaws taller grip

    Ed,
    See my post from a few moments ago about extending the grip of your Cole Jaws if that's what you want to use.
    Ernie
    Ernie on-the-dry-side; WA

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    Edward you got several good answers for different ways to remove the tenon, I will add some for those occasions that a bowl is to be returned in a way that doesn't fit the norm for reasons like warping to one side or were you would like to keep the shape the bowl has gotten by drying.

    Here's two pictures that show a bowl that's held in my mega-jumbo jaws, the bowl had dried in a warped to one side way, to be able to do what I wanted I had to use wedges to prop one side up, I raised the buttons with blocking and longer bolds, you can see the centering of the recess is very close here, I turned the recess true and then straightened the top and returned the bowl.

    wedged level for returning.jpg

    dried distortedlarge bowl.jpg

    The next Applewood platter I was going to make handle openings inside the rim and keep the oval shape of the platter it had dried into, again I raised a couple of buttons and placed them in the slots where needed so the bowl was going to be centered as good as possible, then shaped the bottom the way I wanted and leave the top as it was already.

    distorted, and wanted to keep it as is.jpg

    jaws are able to center a bowl to suit.jpg

    This next bowl I have returned on the inside already, and am returning the outside and removing the (seldom used by me) tenon while held by the Mega-jumbo jaws, you do need to take very fine cuts and be able to turn without getting catches, but it can be done this way,------- carefully

    careful tenon removal and returning can be done.jpg
    Have fun and take care

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Ford View Post
    ...What is the best way to remove the tenon on the bottom of a bowl or form...
    Here is a link to a pdf by John Lucas that details the different methods for reverse chucking. It's good. Make sure you download it to your own harddrive as links go bad over time.

    http://www.ptwoodturners.org/Tips%20...ng%20Bowls.pdf
    Tage Frid: The easiest thing in the world is to make mistakes.

  7. #22
    I think you have already gotten the best advice, and I can't add anything that others haven't...but I can tell about my preferences.

    I haven't gone the vacuum chuck direction, primarily because of cost. I made a donut chuck for the cost of a cheap faceplate, some scrap plywood, and it works like a champ.

    Occasionally I will also use a jamb chuck...with liberal applications of blue painters tape, or even duct tape.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    oregon roseburg, go ducks!
    Posts
    91

    thinking off the lathe

    I too made a donut chuck and it works pretty well but I found for smaller items the time invested was not worth the work. sooo
    started using a 4.5 inch angle grinder with 50 grit sand paper,, eehaw place the bowl on a rag to cushion the egde then take light cuts to remove the extra wood keep the angle flat so you dont gouge too deep.after you get close you can sand with you hook and loop sander the rest of the undercut/dimple ( I recess my centers). very fast this way if you dont want to orniment the bottom. good luck, and dont forget the dust control this baby is smokin'

  9. #24
    Google these 4 words: Straka chuck Alan Lacer. He has a great downloadable article with photos of how to make a Straka, or Donut chuck.
    Use mine all the time on items that cannot go on a vacuum chuck.

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