What's Your Favorite Glue?

[mickey cassiba]

I'm using TB II, mostly because I get all I want at work. We sell 1 pint squeeze bottles, that are filled from 1 gallon jugs. When I noticed that the jugs were being tossed with 1/4-1/2 inch remaining, I asked and was told to take all I wanted. I now have several pints stored in a cool, dry (under the moble home) place.
Can anyone tell me the practical shelf life in a sealed container. I have read the mfr's spec sheet, but I suspect it was written by the marketing department.
Mickey

[Cody Colston]

TBIII because of the slightly longer open time over TB Original and TBII.

[Cliff Stannebein]

I use hide glue with the hot pot or out of the bottle.
This elliminates most all stain problems and it can be dissasembled.
Tests have shown it is as strong or stronger than most other glues.
It is very GREEN. (from organic waste) And you can eat it. It's very high in protein.

[Darrin Davis]

I just got a couple of gallons of titebond & titebond 2 and it seems to be thinner than the last time I purchased some. No complaints, I love the way is spreads quickly. Has anyone else noticed this?

[Rod Sheridan]

Lee Valley Cabinet makers glue.............Rod.

[John Thompson]

TB III for open time and color of dry.. TB II for smaller projects where open time is not as critical and I want a clear fill.

[george wilson]

Cliff,I sometimes eat out of the glue pot,but pulled out 3 fillings from not chewing fast enough!

Actually,the harp makers of Wurlitzer used (use?) Knox gelatin as a glue.It is a refined hide glue used in making desserts. They actually would use some to make a dessert after lunch.

They work with maple a lot,and that refined,clear glue makes the most invisible joints on those harps. It must be extremely strong,as a harp is under great tension.

[Tom Esh]

I've had a few creep issues with TBIII, so now I use it only when I really need it's extra water resistance or tolerance of lower temps while curing. I was using TBII for everything else ...until I tried TB Extend. I love the extra open / assembly time and the fact it doesn't try to put a death grip on the work before I can get the clamps on. Makes glue-ups so much less stressful.

[Bill Spievak]

I use the Lee Valley 2002 for work that will be painted. If it is stain grade or something that may have to be repaired or something that must not creep, I go to hot hide glue in the pot. I use 3 different grades, depending upon requirements. For most work it is the 192gs, I use 251gs with urea for laminations that require time, and 315gs for rub joints and joints that will be under high stress.

[Matt Jackering]

We have had great results with and use exclusively Titebond on our projects.

We also have an online store and have recently become an authorized Titebond dealer.

You can find all our TB products at http://www.woodworkingparts.com

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[Jamie Buxton]

I just got a couple of gallons of titebond & titebond 2 and it seems to be thinner than the last time I purchased some. No complaints, I love the way is spreads quickly. Has anyone else noticed this?

Yes, a new jug can flow more easily than the end of a gallon jug. I attribute this to water loss in the old glue. If you want, you can thin the old PVA by adding a little water to the jug and shaking hard.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I use Titebond a lot
I don't use III unless I have an out of doors or waterproof/resistant application. I don't like the color and I don't like the way it never really gets hard. The latter seems to always cause the glue line to become apparent.

I use Epoxies a lot too. There are applications where nothing else will do and others where it's just plain stupid to use 'em.

I use resorcinol glue in some applications.

I use WeldWood in many applications ( never the water soluable crap)

I use spray on 3-m adhesive occasionally.

I use hide glue on guitar fretboards
(I understand that Fish Glue is really strong)

And on occasion I have even used vegetable protein glues like buckwheat or rice.

[Sean Nagle]

Tightbond Original by the gallon.

[Art Mulder]

Lee Valley Cabinet makers glue.............Rod.

Yeah, I use 2002GF from Lee Valley a fair bit. I've never had any complaints. Doesn't seem to get noticed much on the forums though. I wonder if they mostly sell it in Canada from their stores, vs in the US?

I also use Titebond II. Works fine also. Can't say I've found one to be much better than the other in my hobby shop.

...art

[Rob Young]

Lately I've been experimenting with using TB liquid hide glue and so far it is my favorite for small boxes and furniture carcass work. Obviously not appropriate for things like cutting boards or outdoor furniture.

People like to bag on the strength of the hide glues and the TB liquid in particular but so far it has held up and in some simple (and admittedly non-scientific) tests I did to prove to myself its strength. Simple tests like glue up a panel, wait 24 hours then try and snap the panel along the glue line, or make a stub-tennon joint and step down on the angle to break it. Wood (red & white oaks, soft maple and poplar samples) gave out first. But of course what I don't have is long term data.

And really liking the minimal impact of hide glue on finishing! Nice to be able to wipe up squeeze out with a damp rag and not worry obsessively about the glue blocking finish. Saves a step over popping PVA glue beads later. I'm sure I'll eventually find some situation where the finish is buggered by this but so far, so good on simple oil based finishes.