Opinions on DeWalt R1512A RAS

[David Milstone]

I am seeking experience and opinion from users, or anyone really with information, about the quality of this saw. I am in the process of acquiring one with the goal of using it as a dedicated cross cut station. My primary question is to what extent this saw, made in the 1960s by B&D, resembles its legendary high quality predecessors in the DeWalt line, and to what extent is it more similar to the lower quality saws made for the consumer market after B&D purchased DeWalt. My understanding is it was made during a transition period within the company.

Will it hold settings like the early saws, or drift like the later saws? Will true right angles become something else after many cuts?

Will it really drive a 12 inch blade at its maximum depth of over three inches through hardwood, as it should based on its 3.5 hp rated motor, or is this value "developed" hp and is the larger blade a marketing gimick on a saw that is really only 1.5 hp sustained output?

Any other concerns from users?

I know the proof is in the pudding, which is why I seek the wisdom of the creek to devine that which can otherwise only be gleaned by experience. Even though the price is right I don't need another paper weight.

(There's only one of these listed on the .org site - maybe that tells me something - and my inquiry to the owner bounced.)

Thanks very much for any input.

Dave

[Dave Cav]

Your best bet would be to go over to owwm.org and either search the forums or just post your questions. You could also go to owwm.com and check the B&D/DeWalt manufacturer's index to see if someone has put a writeup on this saw on the list.

[Fred Hargis]

That saw has a solid cast iron arm, making it one of the better saws. You can get precise side to side settings, and a good return to zero with almost any of them, the Dewalt latching system insures real accuracy on a well tuned saw. The later models that lost some of the arm (top cut off and covered with something) typically have the crank moved forward about midway. Those arms are not as stiff and you have more sag as you slide the carriage toward the front of the saw. As for the motor, I don't which one that is but I'm guessing it's good, thought you may want to size down to a 10" blade. Should you decide to get this I have a few suggestions: 1.) join the Dewalt RAS group over at Delphi (http://login.prospero.com/dir-login/...%2Fwoodbutcher) 2.)you can send me your address for an article on tuning that can really get the saw to sing. I have another on rebuilding I can include if you want. These are pdf files, I'll e-mail them with your address. It sounds like you are familiar with OWWM, if not join that group as well. My only concern with that saw would be the overall condition of it, if the ways are smooth and the motor runs without screaming like a banshee most everything else is cake. A lot of these saws are missing all kinds of parts, and replacements sometimes command fairly high prices, so if it's complete that a bonus point.

Edited in: I just found out that saw has the Frame 245 motor, essentially the one I have on my 1030K. It's a great motor, true 1.5 HP, and plenty for the the 10" blade I suggested. Roger Hill (the guy who wrote the articles I have) has called it the "best 1.5HP motor to ever be put on an RAS".

[David Milstone]

Thanks. I'm convinced this will be a good addition, assuming the saw is in reasonable shape and mostly complete. It does need a table, but this may be better shop made anyway. Thanks for the Delphi referral. This will be useful no matter what. I will follow up for the other info you mention when the current owner and I come to an agreement (or not).

I've also asked at owwm.org, which has already been useful.

Dave

[Fred Hargis]

Replacing the table is one of the easier jobs to do...be sure to consider the Mr. Sawdust design, easy to do and very rigid and flat. You don't need his book to do it...advice for it is readily available on most of the forums. Good luck with your pursuit.

[David Milstone]

Not entirely unexpectedly the deal fell through, at least for now. Turns out the owner can't mount the saw to the table ( a missing metal plate must be fabricated) and he has never actually seen the saw working (as in he doesn't know if the motor works at all). Since I know nothing about the ultimate functionality of this saw, and can't get any real information about stability without making the plate and assembling everything, and given that the motor might not work, I can't see spending anything for this saw. The price was only $50, after a long time without any other offers, so the money almost doesn't matter. It might be OK as a freeby to attempt restoration but as I said I don't really need another paper weight just now.

Is a 1512 manual available online somewhere. don't see one at the .com site. I would like to see what metal plate the owner refers to as missing.

Thanks.

Dave

[Fred Hargis]

I haven't seen that manual, but posting a request over at OWWM or the Dewalt forum might link you up with someone who has one. Be aware, often the parts of these saws are worth more than the saw as a whole...I've seen blade guards sell for as much as $35-40....I highly doubt it would have been throw away money. If the motor works it would bring a nice price, and if not it might be something simple to fix. Not trying to talk you into anything, just sayin'....the parts may help someone else bring another one back to life. You might ask about a manual for a 7790...it looks to me like they are the same saw.

[David Milstone]

Simple related question. Many users recommend running a 10 inch blade on the 1512 even though it can accept a 12 inch blade and the motor is configured correspondingly. How does one mount a 10 " blade, all of which I've seen have 5/8 " inch arbors, on a motor with a 1 " arbor? Adapters?

Thanks.

Dave

[Fred Hargis]

You can buy 10" blades with a 1" arbor hole, they usually have bushings so you can also use it on a 5/8" arbor. Many sharpeners can punch a 5/8" hole to 1" as well. It also seems that I've seen 12" blades with a 5/8" arbor hole, so there must be some 12" saws somewhere with a 5/8" arbor. I gotta say, if the 1512 has the Frame 245 motor, I have to think it's the same as mine (Frame 245) and it has a 5/8" arbor.

[David Milstone]

... snip... I gotta say, if the 1512 has the Frame 245 motor, I have to think it's the same as mine (Frame 245) and it has a 5/8" arbor.

Thanks. Owner says this motor is 1 inch arbor. Maybe he is mistaken since he has never actually used the saw or even started the motor as far as I can tell.

Dave

[Fred Hargis]

Thanks. Owner says this motor is 1 inch arbor. Maybe he is mistaken since he has never actually used the saw or even started the motor as far as I can tell.

Dave

Here's an interesting quote from the guy who started OWWM:
"Rule No. 1: The seller, standing in front of the machine with access to all sides and in full daylight, will not/cannot describe the machine correctly."

I would wait until I see it before buying blades.

[Kevin Looker]

I don't know what part of the country you live in but here in Ohio, nice older radial arm saws are not hard to find if you're not in a hurry.

When looking at a DeWalt, check the wear on the inside of the arm. Do this by pulling the arm from the fully retracted position to the fully extended. The idea is that there will be practically no wear at the fully extended position & a lot of wear close to fully retracted. If it gets significantly tighter at the extended position, there's some noticeable wear. A worn DeWalt arm has to be re-machined - $$$$.

You might want to consider a Delta also. They have replaceable/reversible ways.

Kevin Looker

[David Milstone]

...snip 2.)you can send me your address for an article on tuning that can really get the saw to sing. I have another on rebuilding I can include if you want. These are pdf files, I'll e-mail them with your address ...snip... Roger Hill (the guy who wrote the articles I have) has called it the "best 1.5HP motor to ever be put on an RAS".

Well, I bought this saw a few days ago. An interesting experience, as usual. I will post details when I have figured things out a bit more. I will also pm you with an address for the files you mention on tuning and rebuilding - thanks!

Briefly, this saw looks almost entirely intact and in very good shape - surprisingly to me. The ways are smooth. The bearings are tight and have some rust but I think (hope) they are restorable. It has the standard frame and strong base, without a table. It also has "all kinds" of 220V electrical boxes and components for three phase motors connected to the legs of the stand. I really don't understand their purpose since the saw's motor is a B&D single phase 110v/220v, frame 250 motor.

One question - the seller said the saw is wired for 220v but he never saw it run or plugged it in. I connected the motor *briefly* to 110v and it ran up to what sounds like full speed just fine. Does this mean it is wired for 110v? I thought it would just hum but not really spin if it was wired for 220v. I haven't checked the wiring because the yolk is jammed and I can't rotate the motor to access the plate covering the wiring. The motor also has two weird holes in the housing! Other weirdness as well.

Looks like this will be a great saw once the weirdness is resolved. I will post photos when I have things a bit more under control.

Dave

[Fred Hargis]

The motors I've seen that were wired for 240V and plugged into 120V would turn, but very slowly. Even so, if I didn't know how it was wired, I'd wait until I could check the wiring to the diagram. When you get time, post a pic of those holes, those motors usually had an overload on the end of them and I'm guessing someone removed yours.

[David Milstone]

The motors I've seen that were wired for 240V and plugged into 120V would turn, but very slowly. Even so, if I didn't know how it was wired, I'd wait until I could check the wiring to the diagram. When you get time, post a pic of those holes, those motors usually had an overload on the end of them and I'm guessing someone removed yours.

Thanks.

I agree with not using until wiring confirmed. My goal was determining if the motor is dead or alive. Looks like it is alive. The overload seems to be gone, but the wholes look like damage, not intentional removal. I will definitely post pics when I have a "critical mass".

Dave