Why does my 400 dollar festool buck?

[Jamie Baalmann]

I just bought a rotex and it bucks and vibrates the workpiece unless held just right. Do i need to go with a different sanding pad or am i going to be fighting this thing all the time. I started with an ets 125 and it did it even worse took it back to the store and compared it to the es that was plugged in at the test booth and it is worlds different. Did they make them too aggressive now. It even does it at lower speeds...
Any comments appreciated
sincerely frustrated and broke

[Joe Jensen]

There must be something wrong. I'm pretty picky and mine does not do that. If you run it on the slowest speed (not running against any wood) and watch the pad from the side, does it seem to run in the same plane or not? If not, you have a defective pad. No matter what, you should contact whoever sold it to you, or reach Festool.

[Mike Goetzke]

I haven't used mine much but it has done that. You can control it better by holding the top and handle. There are many more experienced users that have had this problem and probably can help. Are you using a Festool vac, because one other thing some have mentioned is that too much suction can make it bounce.

Mike

[Josiah Bartlett]

Are you trying to use it on a funky grain?

[Joe Scharle]

Need the whole story:
Does it seem to work OK in ROS mode?
Does it vibrate wildly when not in contact? And do you hear any 'knocking' sounds? (something may be loose in there)


FYI, mine is difficult to control in Rotex mode on LOW speed on very rough wood. I dial up the speed until it smooths out.

[Tony Joyce]

If you're using a Festool vac try adjusting the speed on the vacuum. If you run the vac wide open it sucks the sander to the wood, which causes too much vibration with the sanders.

[Scott T Smith]

Need the whole story:
Does it seem to work OK in ROS mode?
Does it vibrate wildly when not in contact? And do you hear any 'knocking' sounds? (something may be loose in there)


FYI, mine is difficult to control in Rotex mode on LOW speed on very rough wood. I dial up the speed until it smooths out.

+1. Try a medium speed or higher.

[Jamie Baalmann]

Ok more info it is sanding maple stiles on some cabinets i'm building. Also tried it on some alder plywood cabinets that never got finished that went through a fire to remove soot... Really unless held perfect it does it in every mode. I'm not even using a vac right now and that's the first thing the salesman asked when i returned the ETS 125 and compared it to the ES 125 that was hooked up. He went into the back and grabbed another one and it was the same. He said the rep will be here in a week and he is going to ask him why it is so much different. Upgraded to the Rotex 125 and now I have the same problem just not as bad. On the plus side when I do wrestle it my stiles are very even and when I went through all the grits on a piece of wenge it was like glass.

[Jason White]

Make sure your ROTEX is not in "eccentric" mode (the most aggressive). It also has a "fine sanding" mode. Also, trial dialing the sander's speed down or the suction on the vacuum if you have one attached.

Also, don't push down hard. Let the sander do the work.

I have the 6" ROTEX and it's my go-to sander 80% of the time for both aggressive and fine sanding.

Jason

I just bought a rotex and it bucks and vibrates the workpiece unless held just right. Do i need to go with a different sanding pad or am i going to be fighting this thing all the time. I started with an ets 125 and it did it even worse took it back to the store and compared it to the es that was plugged in at the test booth and it is worlds different. Did they make them too aggressive now. It even does it at lower speeds...
Any comments appreciated
sincerely frustrated and broke

[Brice Burrell]

Jamie, your last post says it all, the Rotex 125. The RO125s have a learning curve, some people pick it up quickly while a a fair number of owners struggle through the process. The problem is the elongated body of the sander, it makes balancing/holding the sander perfectly flat harder. Even a very slight angle can cause the sander to jump wildly. Try holding the sander with one on top and over the sanding pad and the other back at the very end of the tool, near or on the plug-it cord. This makes balancing it a little easier.

As for the ETS125 and all of the smaller Festool sanders (DTS400, RTS400, LS130) they run much better after a break in period of 6-8 hours of use. During the break in the brushes are seating, the sanding brake and bearing seals are wearing in. If you or anyone else is having this problem try letting the sander run for a few hours to break in and I bet you'll be surprised by the difference.

[Jamie Baalmann]

I guess if what everyone is saying is true then I will most likely be returning it. I don't think a four hundred dollar sander should have to be finessed. I want it to run like the one on the demo stand and it doesn't. I know how to hold it to "make it" work but I shouldn't have to do that. A sander shouldn't shake the surface it is sanding like it and the ETS 125 I had do.

[Scott Coffelt]

Just get a ETS150-3/5 and use corser grit paper. It may take a little longer than the rotex. I have used my 150-3 for years and it work great, I start a 60 when need or 80, then work my way to 220.

[Adam Grills]

I don't think a four hundred dollar sander should have to be finessed. I know how to hold it to "make it" work but I shouldn't have to do that. A sander shouldn't shake the surface it is sanding like it and the ETS 125 I had do.

You have hit the nail on the head! A $400 sander should not have a learning curve involved when a $150 sander can sand without. Personally Festool needs to setp up the design to top of the line if they plan to fetch top of the line.
Adam