Heating Shop: Electric Alternatives

[Augusto Orosco]

I am tired of not being able to work in the shop from December to March, so I trying to find a suitable heating solution.

As background, I work in a two car garage that is 20’x25’, with 8’ ceilings. It’s sheet-rocked and insulated (The garage doors could use some of those insulating panels, though, so that’s also in the works). I can only manage to work there every other weekend, and I can tolerate cold very well (in fact, I like it cold… to a degree). So I was thinking that I would like my shop to be at maybe 55F while I work there and while some glue-ups settle and the rest of the time at above whatever temperature is needed so finishes and glue are not ruined (45F – 50F?).

I don’t want to deal with exhaust issues, condensation-induced humidity or cumbersome installations, and that’s why I am opting towards electric, even though, it’s probably not the most economically efficient source of heat. Currently, I am leaning heavily towards either of these:

Dayton G73 Electric Garage Heater, 5000W http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-G73-Electric-Garage-Thermostat/dp/B000TK2SWO/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3EOGS09L3EPQP&colid =3243OCS6C0GX3

Farenheat FUH5-4, 5000W http://www.amazon.com/Fahrenheat-Ceiling-Mount-Automatic-Electric-Heater/dp/B0000AXEZV/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3E9BZMHZKRPBS&colid =3243OCS6C0GX3

(for what I've gathered here at the Creek, they are basically the same machine, with a different brand name on it).

In your opinion, would these be suitable for my needs? Do you know of a good source to purchase these heaters either online or near my area (Boston)?

Any other suggestions/thoughts are also welcome!

[Jason Beam]

I have exactly that heater (one of the, i think the Farenheat) - got it from NorthernTool.com and it's fantastic. I love it.

My shop is 21x24. Granted, my climate is much warmer than yours, but I have no doubt this heater would do the job. I have R13 in the walls and ceiling and I set the heater to its lowest wattage setting.

I bought that heater for two reasons: The space heater I was using was an oil-filled radiator that took FOREVER to get things warm enough for me. Also, I won't leave a space heater unattended - just too many horror stories.

The new heater works swimmingly. I can turn it on in the morning and gain 10 degrees in less than 30 minutes. I wired it to run on low and turn the thermostat down to 2 or 3 and it keeps me plenty warm all day. It only kicks on every 10-15 minutes for 30 seconds or so. Even at 5000w, if it ran constantly, it would only cost me something like $.40/hour to run in the winter. Not too bad, given that around here it'd never run constantly.

I can't say enough good about that heater

[Dave Lessley]

My shop is 24x30 and I purchased two of the Daytons a little bit different model with and external thermostat. I put them in opposite corners of the shop. I put the thermostats down about shoulder height. The heater is at about 9 foot off the floor. I purchased them through Grainger This will be the first full winter that I will be using them but the tail end of last winter temperatures in the 30's It was real easy to keep the shop at 60 degrees. One probably would have done it but I didn't want to have any cold corners so with a heater on each end and the air filter to help keep things moving it stays cozy everywhere.

Dave,

[Augusto Orosco]

Thanks, Jason and Dave!

I was also debating on the best location for the heater. Wiring wise, it would be really easy to place it in the the corner opposite my main work area, only because that's where my sub-panel is. That's about a 16' distance. Taking it to the other corner would involve some work laying extra EMT conduit that I would rather avoid.

Also, have you hardwired your unit, or set it up with a plug? I think the instructions ask for hardwiring it, but I don't know why. Is there some electrical issue with plugging it into its own receptacle that is wired to a dedicated 30amp circuit?

[Gary Venable]

I am in Missouri and have the Dayton heater (bought it from Air n Water online). I have a three car garage (more like 2 3/4) insulated walls and overhead doors. The heater has no trouble keeping the garage warm (it can actually make it hot). It has been a great little heater.

-Gary

[Jason Beam]

Thanks, Jason and Dave!

I was also debating on the best location for the heater. Wiring wise, it would be really easy to place it in the the corner opposite my main work area, only because that's where my sub-panel is. That's about a 16' distance. Taking it to the other corner would involve some work laying extra EMT conduit that I would rather avoid.

Also, have you hardwired your unit, or set it up with a plug? I think the instructions ask for hardwiring it, but I don't know why. Is there some electrical issue with plugging it into its own receptacle that is wired to a dedicated 30amp circuit?

I mounted mine in the center of one of my long walls - pointing into the room. Mostly because no corner was available and the wiring was convenient. The fan on that bugger is very good. I can feel WARM air on the other side of the shop so it does a fantastic job shootin the warm around.

Hard-wire vs. Plug.

It's my understanding that in high-amperage draws, it's best to hard-wire. A plug is a connection and relies on friction and surface contact to make the connection. On the surface of the plug components, there is always a little variation which translates to little arcs when in operation. Arcs mean heat. You can verify this by plugging in a clothes iron on high for 10-15 minutes. The cord is cool, but I'll bet ya that plug gets warm - some get a little TOO warm.

A hard-wired connection with wire nuts and a good solid surface contact between them will not get AS hot, it'll still arc across the wire surfaces, just not as bad as a plug. It's also helpful that the wires are usually made of softer material, which helps them to squeeze a little when pressed together and make a better contact with each other. A plug is made to be separated and is made of materials that can stand up to the sliding better - but they're not as smooth or malleable.

I hard-wired mine because of this. My oil-filled radiator's plug would get frighteningly hot after only an hour of use. Space heaters are considered by many to be pretty dangerous things when left alone so I didn't want to take any chances.

[Don Jarvie]

Has anyone with the Dayton had an issue with fumes from the finsihes?

I don't think the element is sealed so the only concern is the fumes and any combustion.

Don J

[Leo Vogel]

Augusto - I have those heaters. DO NOT use a plug. I did and almost burned my shop down. After using the heater for about six months, I was in the shop, heard a snap, and fire started coming out of the outlet. It never did throw the breaker because there was no short. I'm sure it would of burned the house down if I was not next to the outlet at the time.

Since then, I hardwired the unit and no more problems. Wow, I think about that every time I turn the heater on. The instructions are there for a reason: Hardwire only.

[Jason Beam]

Nope .. I'm not too worried about fumes and the heater. I'll have the space ventilated long before it becomes a combustion issue, I think.

[Augusto Orosco]

Augusto - I have those heaters. DO NOT use a plug. I did and almost burned my shop down. After using the heater for about six months, I was in the shop, heard a snap, and fire started coming out of the outlet. It never did throw the breaker because there was no short. I'm sure it would of burned the house down if I was not next to the outlet at the time.

Since then, I hardwired the unit and no more problems. Wow, I think about that every time I turn the heater on. The instructions are there for a reason: Hardwire only.

Jason, thanks for the explanation and Leo thanks for the warning! I will definitely hard-wire it then. Heaters of all kind make me nervous. Just like Jason I would never leave a space heater running unattended. It even makes me nervous to leave this one running on low while I am not there, but I don't know how to prevent the glue and finishes from going bad (or the water where my water stones are submerged to freeze). I am tired of bringing that stuff into the house when winter comes

[Rich Switzer]

I purchased the Dayton g73 last fall for my 24x28 shop and it does a fine job even in sub-freezing winter temps. I got mine off ebay (which by a current check has it for $75 less than the Amazon price with free shipping).

[Dave Lehnert]

I purchased the same unit listed from Northern above last year.
I have it in a one car garage, Block building, sheet rock 8' above. Uninsulated. The heater will bring the temp up in my shop about 15 degrees in two hours. If you are insulated, it will do much better.
For the limited shop time I get (two hours at a time) I am happy with it. Takes the chill off.
I hard wired my unit but a electrician told me it was code in his area to use a plug. Why? So the unit could be unplugged by a service tech if work was needed.

FYI- Keep a eye out for free shipping on the Northern web site.

[Augusto Orosco]

I purchased the Dayton g73 last fall for my 24x28 shop and it does a fine job even in sub-freezing winter temps. I got mine off ebay (which by a current check has it for $75 less than the Amazon price with free shipping).

Thanks for the tip, Rick! that's way cheaper than every source I have been contemplating, and the seller's reviews are good. I just placed a Buy it Now order and got it for $275

[Rick Moyer]

+1 for the Dayton G73. My shop is 21X21 and insulated R-13 walls and R-19 ceiling. This heater does an awesome job and costs very little even leaving on low when not in the shop. You will like it a lot!

[Kris Bjarnason]

Has anyone tried one of the wall heaters that Northern sells (the ones that can be recessed)? I see they have a 4000 watt unit for $200. I'm wondering how that would work for me (my shop is a bit smaller at 20x24).