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Thread: Exaktor EX26X sliding table product review

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    San Jose, CA
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    Exaktor EX26X sliding table product review

    Hey everyone,

    I didn't take pictures or anything (yet) but I just wanted to give my initial impressions of the exaktor ex26x. The product is full of heavy components. The manual is adequate but not incredibly descriptive. You have to be somewhat mechanically inclined to get it right. I would not recommend leaving the extension wing on the saw as the distance from the table to the blade is already less-than-ideal without it. I can't imagine an additional 8" or so being tolerable unless I was only cutting very large panels.

    1) I had to cut the fence rails on my unisaw to accomodate the exaktor. This is true with most sliding tables so I wasn't too upset. I never really rip to the left of the blade anyway, so whatever.

    2) I bolted the exaktor to the middle and rear bolt holes initially but after I realized that the crosscut capacity with the fence in the default positition was around 20", I moved it back. The rails now project about 11" in front of the saw, but this isn't really noticable or a problem. I find myself accidentally bumping the legs of the sliding table more often than I find myself bumping the rails.

    3) The instructions make it appear as if the rails are supposed to be coplanar. This isn't really the case. They are supposed to be in parallel planes, but the left rail (the one that the bearings glide on) is actually a few inches below the right rail. This was confusing as I spent a significant amount of time wondering if the instructions were wrong.

    4) Adjustment of the leg height and mounting plate height is somewhat tedious. I opted to reverse a few parallel clamps and use them as spreaders against the floor to level the table and set it in plane with the table saw. After this, I then secured all the legs and bolts.

    5) Adjustment of the tracking is somewhat tedious as well. It requires setting a few of the bearings, testing, loosening a component (like the crossmembers), retightening, re-setting the bearings, sometimes even re-setting the leg height, etc.

    6) Ultimately, if you put steps 4 and 5 together, the majority of the install is fine-tuning the thing. Using spreaders for leg height is preferable as the whole process is very iterative and each successive attempt gets you closer to an ideal setup.

    7) Once setup, product usage is excellent. I frequently crosscut 96" long panels without a problem. With the fence in the "normal" position, I can crosscut a 30x96 panel easily.

    My two gripes:
    A) The fence, while accurate and stable typically, should not have a clamp mounted to it. When in use, the clamp has a tendency to warp the fence as much as it holds down the material. This is a noted problem - I think I may seek alternative ways of building in toggle clamps. Anyone with ideas here? Maybe mounting directly to the table instead and removing if necessary?

    B) Once set up, it's fine, but the legs should have levellers instead of just set screws. and maybe a couple of optional leg cross-members might prevent the errant kick?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aurora, Colorado (Saddle Rock)
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    I've had an Excalibur for years. The grips are the same. The clamp is junk, as you described. As for the feet, it would make the initial setup a little easier. However, I can say that it keeps the setting and you wont have any troubles if you bump it. One of these days, I think I'll bolt it to the floor... but, as I said, I've never had a problem.

    Enjoy, they are great additions to the American style saw.

  3. #3
    I had one of the original Excalibur 60" sliders on my Grizzly 1023 for many years until I replaced the whole thing with a SCMI slider. It worked quite well, but needed periodic adjustment as the aluminum extrusions just could not hold a tight tolerance no matter how hard you torqued the various bolts and clamps. Still, I considered it a worthwhile investment.

    In terms of the legs, one of the first things I did to it was to get a set of leveling mount adaptors with threaded inserts for the square tube legs:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#leveling-mo...apters/=41z5av

    These made setup MUCH easier. Also, once I had the beast leveled, I lag bolted a pair of heavy duty angle irons to the floor at each leg and drilled/bolted the leg to them, guaranteeing that they wouldn't walk on me. Once I did this, I noticed that the interval between needed readjustments lengthened considereably.

    Brian
    Taxachusetts

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Jose, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Backner View Post
    I had one of the original Excalibur 60" sliders on my Grizzly 1023 for many years until I replaced the whole thing with a SCMI slider. It worked quite well, but needed periodic adjustment as the aluminum extrusions just could not hold a tight tolerance no matter how hard you torqued the various bolts and clamps. Still, I considered it a worthwhile investment.

    In terms of the legs, one of the first things I did to it was to get a set of leveling mount adaptors with threaded inserts for the square tube legs:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#leveling-mo...apters/=41z5av

    These made setup MUCH easier. Also, once I had the beast leveled, I lag bolted a pair of heavy duty angle irons to the floor at each leg and drilled/bolted the leg to them, guaranteeing that they wouldn't walk on me. Once I did this, I noticed that the interval between needed readjustments lengthened considereably.

    Brian
    Taxachusetts
    Excellent idea. I will definitely implement that. I would think the 60" version would go out of alignment quicker than the 26" version due to the same basic construction with longer spans in between the parts, but time will tell. Did you have any ideas for clamping at the fence?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    174
    Matt,

    Are you still using the EX26X? Still happy with it? I'm thinking about getting one. I like your idea of mounting it more forward of the blade.

    Would you buy it again?

    Todd
    Last edited by Todd Brewer; 04-08-2012 at 10:22 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
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    1,495
    I have the Excalibur version which is identical from what I can tell. I like it but I have the exact same complaints as previous posters. As far as mounting it farther forward, to have to measure carefully... Too far forward and you won't be able to complete your cut.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
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    5,565
    My buddy has the big one. Once it was set up, he used simple L brackets and bolted it to the floor, then he drilled right through the extension legs and put bolts in the holes. It never goes out of adjustment. Kicking the legs just hurts your foot. I think this is the way to go if you don't move the saw.

    I had the junior version. I also mounted it forward (closer to the operator) in the two nearest bolt holes. I used it for dadoing cabinet sides. It would dado a 26" panel. I now have the Jessem on the saw. When I decide where I want the saw to sit permanently I will probably go back to the Excalibur, as it is a heavier duty unit. I also have a few fences and jigs made for it.

    Rick Potter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    walnut creek, california
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    bolting the legs to the floor was the best way to prevent it from getting knocked out of alignment. too bad i tried to drill into concrete with a regular drill! broke several bits and still kept going because i didn't want to buy an impact drill that i'd only use once. as matt pointed out the set up process is tedious but it holds true much better than the delta sliding table attachment. btw matt i never use the clamping attachment. did you mount the fence towards the front of the table saw or the back? i keep mine at the back to accommodate the widest crosscut.

  9. #9
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    Jul 2007
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    Seattle, WA
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    Frank, how are you able to keep your work piece tight against the fence with it in the back position? I bought my sliding table on craigslist and it didn't have clamps... so I pieced some together with some hardware from Rockler. I figured I needed the clamps in order to keep the workpiece tight to the fence with it in the back position.... but as noted earlier, the clamps distort the fence so much that they kind of defeat the purpose.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
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    i usually grab the back edge of the fence with my left hand while pushing the front edge of the piece up against the fence. i'll admit that this does not feel as natural as having the workpiece riding up against the fence in the front position but it enables a much larger stroke to your crosscut.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank shic View Post
    bolting the legs to the floor was the best way to prevent it from getting knocked out of alignment. too bad i tried to drill into concrete with a regular drill! broke several bits and still kept going because i didn't want to buy an impact drill that i'd only use once. as matt pointed out the set up process is tedious but it holds true much better than the delta sliding table attachment. btw matt i never use the clamping attachment. did you mount the fence towards the front of the table saw or the back? i keep mine at the back to accommodate the widest crosscut.
    I bought one of these on sale. Works well. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...mer-97743.html

  12. #12
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    Jan 2010
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    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    Thanks for the review!
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    walnut creek, california
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    i sure do love my exaktor slider...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Champaign, IL
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    212
    Thanks for reviewing it!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    174
    I had the EX26X ordered then canceled it. Got cold feet due to fear of knocking it out of plum/square, lack of highly accurate miter guage ,and the fact that my TS is left tilt. Instead I got the Incra 5000 sled. Set it up today but haven't used it yet. The miter guage is amazing!. The only downside to this configuration is that I have to remove my Incra RS fence to use the sled (at least when the fence extention is installed). Not a big deal to remove the fence but I like to have tools setup where I don't have to fuss with change overs.

    So I'm still dreaming about the EX26X. My table saw is left tilt. Does this mean I should stay away from a slider?
    Last edited by Todd Brewer; 05-13-2012 at 12:51 AM.

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