Mitering Countertops

[Larry Edgerton]

I'm with the camp that does not approve of a miter. If you get it secured good enough at the joint it will pull the countertop at the backsplash on each end. I refuse to do them after problems with one. If they want butcher block tops they will be butt joints.

[Paul Simmel]

I have done at least a half dozen of these at work at this point, most thicker than yours, some as thick as 3 1/2". We jack miter the intersections (ie BUTT JOINT with panache), always include a good spline or two, and pull in the butt joint with dog bones. The dog bones (draw bolts, counter top bolts, whatever you would like to call them) allow the wood to move but keep things closed up, the splines maintain the alignment.

Peter, I am really digging this. If you don;t mind, could you detail a bit? How far from the inside corner (panache)... (up with the 45) before you turn right for the main 90?

2" ... 3"?

[Paul Simmel]

A Jack Miter with spines it looks like it will be, based on the advice presented here. My Maple tops are top quality, and I do not want to take any chances. My many thanks.

Personally. I feel the Miter would work. The movement would be uniform on both tops, and I anticipated movement. The movement would be in accordance with it's mated piece.... so goes my thinking/experience.

But the LOOK of a JACK Miter along with a bUTT end will work very well for me. I can make templates for my spiral bit... with sawing/chiseling etc.

Thanks every one... great points.

Have decided this is the route I am going to go (Jack Miter).

Thanks so very much.

Going to position the draw bolts accordingly to allow for movement.

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If you are lucky. I will post pic,s of the cabinets themselves.

Slow process... little at a tiime.

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Thanks again,

_P