Beal Buffing system

[dennis kranz]

I hooked up a three wheel system today and didn't like what I was getting for an end result. I know the problem must be me or why would so many be useing them. Do those of you who use the Beal have any suggestions as to a better shine. My items look kind of dull or cloudy looking. Looked better going to the buffer. All the items I tried where oiled months ago and set aside for the day I hooked up the Beal.
Also which wax do you prefer to use? The one that comes with it or the Renn?
Thanks Dennis

[Ron Ainge]

Dennis

I think that you have found out the same thing that most of us have that own the Beal system. You need to break the system in and the first think you need to do is try to get rid of the fluffy stuff that comes off of the new buffing wheels. You can do this by running the buffing wheels agains the teeth of a saw blade. I used an old one that needed sharpening. Next load the buffing wheels with the different compounds that you will use. When you think that you have enough on the wheels. Put some more on because I think this is where your problem is. I know I worked with mine for quite some time before some one told me how to break it in. Now that I have the wheels properly loaded they work a lot better.

[Steve Mawson]

I have had a little trouble with too much pressure on the piece I am buffing. I believe that creates too much heat which will dull the finish or actually buff the finish off instead of shine. I have used the wax that comes with the Beal which does fine and the Rennisance works well also.

[Dick Sowa]

When I first tried mine, I had horrible results, and got really frustrated with it. I tried a couple things that seemed to help.

First, like you did, make sure the finish is really, really, dried and cured. Anything less will likely just gum up and look bad. And worse, will build up on your buffing wheel and mess up the next bowl you try to buff.

Second, except for wax, all the other compounds are actually abrasives. It's no different than using very fine sandpaper. If you use a lot of pressure, or hold the piece in place a long time, it can literally eat away any finish you had. That happened to me, more than once, till I realized what I was doing.

[Bernie Weishapl]

You have received some good advice and will say again that don't put to much pressure when buffing. Also like Ron said get the wheels seasoned. I use Ren wax with my buffing wheel. Carnuba will leave finger prints and water spot.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dennis - comes with doing. Use light pressure and keep the wood moving constantly. As mentioned - the wheels have to be broken in a little to load properly and you will have cotton dust flying around for a while. All part of the entertainment package!

The system does work quite well but it takes a little time to figure out what works best for you.

[Ken Whitney]

My initial results with the Beall buffing system were somewhat cloudy as well.

I get the best results when I load with wheels with what seems to me like hardly any compound or wax. Except for the tripoli, it is difficult to quantify how much material you have loaded onto the wheels, and I suspect I was initially overdoing the white diamond and wax.

Ken

[JerHall]

as Mr. Beal suggests. Just a frequent dab will do it.

[Robert Parrish]

I use both carnuba and renaissance wax (not on the same wheel). I bought an extra buffing set from Penn State which allowed me to put the EEE and white diamond on one mandrel with a lot more room and two wax wheels on the other. Swapping the mandrels takes just a few seconds.

[Bob Hamilton]

What kind of wood were you buffing? Dark colored wood that has large pores, like black walnut, will have the pores load up with the white wax carrier of the white diamond buff and look horrible.

Take care
Bob