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Thread: Pratt & Lambert 38 gloss or dull for wipe-on mix??

  1. #1

    Pratt & Lambert 38 gloss or dull for wipe-on mix??

    I'm mixing my first batch of wipe on varnish using tung oil, MS and Pratt & Lambert 38. I bought gloss but I've been wondering if I should use the dull instead. (I was worried keeping the flattening agents properly mixed so I went with gloss).

    I intend to rub out the finish and wax it--I'll be looking for a satin finish when its complete.

    What do the rest of you use dull or gloss??

    thanks
    Glen

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I believe that gloss is the right choice for this, especially if you are rubbing out. Do note that rubbing out is an abrasive process, so be sure you take care and not actually remove the finish as part of that work.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
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    100
    Hi Glen,

    I usually start with a gloss and work my down to get the sheen I want - I'm a bit a control freak, but that's how I would do it.

    HTH
    Todd

  4. #4
    Okay--sounds like I got the right stuff! I'm planning on 4 coats--do you guys do more? When I get to the rubbing out stage do you suggest steel wool? I have Mirka stearated paper down to 1200 grit I could use as well...

    Thanks
    Glen

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
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    100
    Hi Glen,

    If you're wiping, I think you'll want more than that - I usually spray or brush, and I've found usually 5 is my minimum. Somebody else will have to jump here on the wiping, but I think wiping produces much thinner coats. You'll want a little thicker coat so you have some "meat" to finish so you don't cut through.

    1200 is good, I usually use them dry, until I think it's done, and then I use 1200 again wet (water with a shot of Murphy's oil soap). Then on to the steel wool - wet only usually straight Murphy's oil soap.

    HTH
    Todd

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    3,147
    An oil/varnish mixture is rarely "rubbed out". It's designed to be a penetrating finish that has little or no above the surface film or build up. The way it is applied is to wipe it on, let it set for 15-20 minutes and then by wiped dry. You are using the wrong finish if you want to rub it out. In addition, the addition of the oil will make it a soft, flexible finsih. A soft, flexible finish can not be rubbed out well.

    The final finish of a properly applied oil/varnish is a non-gloss finish.

    So, I suggest you re-think your finishing plans. If you want a hard, durable finish that can be rubbed out, you should be thinking of using a film finish like shellac, lacquer, waterborne acrylic or a poly or non-poly varnish.
    Howie.........

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Chevy Chase, Maryland
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    2,484

  8. #8
    thanks for the input--I've decided against rubbing out!

    Boy I learn alot on these boards--thanks again!

    Glen

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Sean,

    All the more reason to double check; FWW oftens give contradictory info.

    The FWW woodworkers are exceptional; FWW tends to be especially weak in the finishing department.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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