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Thread: anyone use Kreig Pocket Hole joints ?

  1. #1

    anyone use Kreig Pocket Hole joints ?

    I bought the kit years ago but after looking at the small screws
    and limited penetration, I just didnt trust their strength.

    Am I over reacting ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Central Vermont
    Posts
    1,081
    For fine furniture I won't touch them.

    For assembling plywood cabinet carcasses they are fine. Not as strong as glue and a dado but strong enough.

    Personally I stay away from pocket screws for applications like drawers, or doors, but for plywood carcasses they work quite well.
    Last edited by Michael Schwartz; 10-28-2009 at 3:01 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    507
    Scott, I bought the system a couple of years ago and consider it money well spent. I have never had a joint fail and the screws come in different lengths. I have used the system both with just the screws and with glue and screws and don't really see a difference. Plus there is no clamping time waiting for glue joints to dry. I'm not knocking dado joints or using biscuits or dowels, they have their uses also. But IMHO the kreig system is so much easier.
    Just an opinion.

    Bobby
    Louisiana

  4. I recently used them in a glue up for a 9-1/2" wide door jamb. They allowed me to get it together quickly and in alignment without a bunch of clamps and fuss. Later on I took the screws out to save for another job.

    The longer I have had the kit the more I think of applications to use it. Use some glue with the screws until you gain experience and confidence.

  5. #5
    I have used pocket screws for many years, on face frames and attaching the face frames to the boxes. Never had a failure yet.

    I look at pocket screws as more of a clamp (for the glue to dry) than anything else.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,662
    Blog Entries
    1
    I routinely use pocket screws to attach the internal frames for cabinets and dressers that I make. They hold securely and are quick to use. Make sure you get the depth set right so you get enough thread into the mating piece and always use the washer head type screws.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    I find them to be pretty convenient in hidden applications. They don't replace good joinery, but they sure strength a hidden butt joint. I use far fewer biscuits these days and more pocket holes than I used to.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    281
    I use it all the time for all kinds of things. I have not used my biscuit joiner since I bought it 3+ years ago.
    I think the strength is right up there with biscuits and T&G...sometimes I use pocket holes with T&G.

    Great tool, easier to use than a biscuit joiner but like all tools has its limitations and I only use them in hidden areas.

    Nick

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,287
    I just put together some shop carts using nothing but pocket screws. Worked out great!

    Jason

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Schwartz View Post
    For fine furniture I won't touch them.

    For assembling plywood cabinet carcasses they are fine. Not as strong as glue and a dado but strong enough.

    Personally I stay away from pocket screws for applications like drawers, or doors, but for plywood carcasses they work quite well.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jason White; 10-29-2009 at 3:04 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Manistique, Michigan
    Posts
    1,368
    I also have been using the pocket hole screw system for a few years, but it is always in combination with glue (Titebond II). The system works well, especially for cabinet carcasses and face frames which has already been mentioned. The wood plugs are quite expensive.
    Thank you,

    Rich Aldrich

    65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.

    "To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Queens, NY
    Posts
    133

    get proper length screws

    as stated above, the screws come in many lengths. i personally find the system to work well.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    375
    Blog Entries
    3
    I use them almost everyday. Very very strong. Love them.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Rio Rancho, NM
    Posts
    105
    Scott,
    Over reacting. They produce a very strong joint, especially when used with glue, even thought Kreg says you don't need to use glue. I use pocket screws to fasten table aprons to the legs. I know M & T is a much stronger joint, but for a coffee table, sofa table, and end table that don't get moved around much, it is fast, strong, and easier than the M&T to construct. I have also used pocket screws for joining face frames to cabinets, and also for all the hidden glue ups for a fireplace mantel. So far all my uses have been in "hidden" use, but the contrasting plugs are on my next project.

  14. #14
    I don't have the kreg system.

    I have another one and use pockets screws a lot.


  15. #15
    [QUOTE=Rich Aldrich;1246618]I also have been using the pocket hole screw system for a few years, but it is always in combination with glue (Titebond II). The system works well, especially for cabinet carcasses and face frames which has already been mentioned. The wood plugs are quite expensive.[/QUOTE]

    You can buy standardd 3/8" dowels and plug the hole; saw it off flush adn you are left with a dowel that can be turned around and cut for the next hole.
    John Lucas
    woodshopdemos

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