Maloof Inspired Rocker Plans

[Brian Kent]

What Shawn said. Especially the second part!

[Richard Dragin]

Shawn,
Your last post begs a few questions....

Do the instructions say to use cauls because it sounds like your idea (an excellent one) and if they don't say, what method is recommended?

With all that glue out for the lams, what is the recommendation to keep them aligned so you don't end up with skinny rockers?

[Fred deadrick]

Richard, I used cauls made from the "other half" for the plywood used to make the form, and cut these into four parts with about 1/4 in space between the cauls. See the photo below. I like Shawn's idea to use some extra laminations to even out the clamping pressure, but you need to watch out that you do not get glue on those laminations or you will have a bit of a problem. I used a generous amount of glue, and when tightening down the clamps I had glue all over the place. I used wide packing tape on my cauls and forms so that the glued rockers did not stick to the form.

As for making sure the laminations are even, I made generous use of a dead blow hammer on the laminations as I tightened up the clamps. That worked well for me.

[Brian Kent]

That is the method in the instructions. I used the whole cutoff as one big cawl. I see that Chuck cut it into several pieces. One thing I did not see in the instructions was how thick to make the cut-off piece. I would have preferred several inches to my inch or so.

[Richard Dragin]

More than one way to skin a cat. The picture clears things up , thanks Fred. Do you think you get enough clamping pressure with those clamps?

Here's my version of Hal's method, I see advantages to both ways....

[Fred deadrick]

Yes Richard, that is a different solution where I can see the advantages of having access to both sides of the laminations. I think adding cauls would help to distribute pressure though.

As for clamping pressure on my rocker glue-up, the photo above is a bit deceiving in that it was only a test. My actual glue up used a few more clamps, and they did the job.

[Carroll Courtney]

Thanks for the pics guys and the advice on using more cauls.I do like Freds & Richards bending forms for the rockers,maybe combining both.Freds having the segment cauls and Richards have access to both sides and open for drying purposes.I made my bending form like the ones that David Marks use on his shows,but since I'm making more than one chair(later) I will make another form that will combine these ideals.How ya'll weekend goes???? After gluing up the rockers,I spent the rest of the day cleaning up the shop.Will all the resawing,dust was all over,BS was full of saw dust inside and out,all around on the floor,planer and jointer needed cleaning.Tools and material was scatter all over the place.So I backup,took a deep breath and went to cleaning and put things back in place.For now---Till a new day Carroll

[Richard Dragin]

Having access to both sides means I can use a few Quick Clamps to bring the lams into alignment and as Carol pointed out, better glue drying. Having a wider caul like Fred's method would mean more even clamping pressure, I am going to experiment with my new vacuum bagging system to see if I can use it to do the laminating while eliminating all the clamps.

[Prashun Patel]

I also used the cut off from the plywood form as a caul. However, for me it was impossible to get the mating faces perfect along the entire length. I put strips of paper between the lams to check for tightness, and there were a few voids. I noticed the pressure was more even at the bottom of the rockers than the top. Using additional 1/8" lams on the top helped even out the pressure to the top lams.

I coated the form and the cauls with packing tape. CB says to use cauls and to wax the form, so yes, he counsels the same thing. SO, NONE OF THIS WAS MY IDEA. His directions are spot on, but sometimes a little brief for a novice like myself. He's good about support, though.

CB also says to use a mallet to keep the lams flush.

[Mark Singer]

Keith, my headrest was narrower by an inch or two than the 22" blank. It's supposed to be that way. Just trim it to fit snug.

I made my dowel plug stock today. I borrowed an idea (again) from Mark Singer, and am making them with faux wedges. Usually when I do this, I slice a slot in the end grain of a premade plug just prior to insertion, and then mallet a wedge into the slot just below the sfc.

With the tenon cutter, however, it was easier: just laminate three pieces; plane it into a square blank and twist it through the tenonmaker.

Shawn
Is this from the trays I made? Very Nice work !
Mark

[Carroll Courtney]

Well this afternoon,I made a mistake that cannot be repaired other than starting over.I had made my pattern for the back legs out of 1/2 BB,with a coating of poly so that over time it would not come apart in this humidity we have here in the south.I made it alittle over 6" longer at both ends for the router bit to follow.My bit that has a bearing on the shaft end show up yesterday,so I thought that I would cut out the legs today.Since the pattern is longer,I just screwed it down on both ends thinking that is good enought. Wrong,after cutting on both sides of the pattern I notice that it had flex both ways and now the leg is narrow by about 1/8,and to top it off when I layed it out on the maple I had the pattern close to the end of the board,which is where the split is.My only window for picking up hardwood is on Saturdays from 8-12pm which is about 1hr drive.This will give me time to make another pattern that will not flex.
I hate mistakes!!!!-----Carroll

[Keith Harrell]

Sorry to hear about the problem Carroll. The other guys maybe able to suggest if it being narrower would matter. The back legs are a lot of wood as I was going to start over when I had my tear out but it was suggested to ride it out which I was glad to hear.

Question to the rail makers
I have found a old 2"x10"x60"(1 3/4"x 9 1/2"x60") piece of wood to build my rail form which I hope will work.
I was planning on building it to stand up so I can see both sides like many people have suggested with some angle iron to hold the rails flush to on one side as Richard's and use Shawn idea for cauls. It's nice being last sometimes.
The question is.
I have about 4 4" c-clamps and was looking at them on the internet and noticed some are listed as malleable which I think is softer steel but wasn't sure if they would work. I have a ton of F clamps but understand c-clamps offer the highest clamping pressure.
What size do you suggest for C-clamps.
Will malleable work or should I avoid it.
Hope it get to this next week as I'm on spindle 5. Goes quicker after the first two.

[Richard Dragin]

6" c-clamps from Harbor Freight, the more the merrier. I got them on sale for under $5 each. The top of the rockers in my pic is the glued up caul as Sean suggested, it's the lighter colored part. Basically the first time I used the form I made a rocker that became the top caul. I used Oak for the form and liberally wax the entire thing before each use.

[Richard Dragin]

Carroll,
I wouldn't trash the leg over 1/8" at this point, you'd probably never notice it. Without seeing the crack I can't really say, your call.

Like everyone who builds a chair, I made a blunder today that was the end of the world. My neighbor called over the fence to see if I was injured if you get my drift. While doing the final shaping of the rocker transitions I didn't pay attention to the back of the grinding wheel and dug into the top of the rocker.

I just went to a different part of the chair and kept going and just remembered to pay attention to how I held the grinder. When I went back to my mistake I figured I'd have to cut a wedge to fill the void because unlike most projects you get to a point of no return pretty soon in the process of building a chair.

Usually mistakes result in a "design enhancement" which is OK, as long as you do it to both sides of the chair.

Keep at it.

[Brian Kent]

Carroll,

Pictures please, when you can. 1/8" only counts on the joints. Where is the split (top or bottom) and how far does it go? You may be OK.

Richard,

May I echo your statement, Aaaaaaaarrrrghhhh! OK, you will make it work. It'll be a great feature.

Brian