Should poplar trim for router table have surface laminate?

[Philip Florio]

I'm building a router table from plans from Wood magazine {Sept 09, issue 192, page 56, Router table and Organizer}.

The plan calls to add poplar strips to the MDF base of the table top then laminate not only the MDF but the poplar strips. I'm concerned about this, can't the poplar strips move over time causing the laminate to buckle?

I'm thinking it's best to to add the trim to the laminated MDF to finish.

Phil

[David DeCristoforo]

The idea is to have an "unbroken" laminate surface. If you are concerned about wood movement, make the edging out of mitered strips of plywood. It's only there to cover the edges of the MDF. But using solid wood will really not be an "issue".

[Larry Nall]

David is correct, also wood moves most actross its width, not length. Narrow edging strips should pose no problem.

[Philip Florio]

Thanks, I used Birch plywood for the trim.

[Steve Clardy]

No problem with using solid wood under lam.

Thats the way I do my counter tops. I use a solid wood front attached to PB, then laminate the complete top.

[Peter Quinn]

You're not going to get enough movement over a 3/4" thick edge banding glued to MDF to cause any problems. Laminate away. Might even help keep teh MDF flat too.

[Ben Daniels]

How necessary do you guys see the "unbroken" laminate?

I'm in the middle of a similar project. My plan at this point is to laminate the 1.5" MDF (two 3/4 sheets), and then add a 3/4 hardwood edge. I planned to use a slightly oversized edge and then trim it flush with the laminate on the top and bottom. And then probably chamfer the top edge a little.

Am I overlooking a potential problem with this idea? It seems like I've seen it done both ways. To me, seeing the wood edge from a top-down view would look better, but I don't want to run into problems.

Thoughts?

Ben

The idea is to have an "unbroken" laminate surface. If you are concerned about wood movement, make the edging out of mitered strips of plywood. It's only there to cover the edges of the MDF. But using solid wood will really not be an "issue".

[John Thompson]

How necessary do you guys see the "unbroken" laminate?

I'm in the middle of a similar project. My plan at this point is to laminate the 1.5" MDF (two 3/4 sheets), and then add a 3/4 hardwood edge. I planned to use a slightly oversized edge and then trim it flush with the laminate on the top and bottom. And then probably chamfer the top edge a little.

Am I overlooking a potential problem with this idea? It seems like I've seen it done both ways. To me, seeing the wood edge from a top-down view would look better, but I don't want to run into problems.

Thoughts?

Ben

Ben... my router table I built 12 years ago has an exposed outer piece of hardwood perimeter. There is no issue and I wouldn't expect there to be one if you do it. I think that wood movement on small pieces can be over-thought and over reacted to as they appear to be on occasion.

Good luck but.. you won't need any luck on this one!

[Stephen Edwards]

I agree with John Thompson. If your band is made from a stable hardwood it isn't going to be an issue or cause you any problems by doing it the way that you want to do it. My RT hasn't been around as long as John's has but it has been through all 4 seasons with no problems at all.

[David DeCristoforo]

"How necessary do you guys see the "unbroken" laminate?"

It depends. When I said "the idea" was to have an "unbroken" laminate surface, I was not implying that this is the "right" way. Just that some people prefer it. Others like to use the wood edge as a design element. There is nothing "wrong" with it. As long as it is done correctly. What I mean is that if you just nail on a piece of wood, you may have problems with gaps opening up between the wood and the PL or even with the wood coming loose over time. But if you screw the wood down and/or glue it and clamp it so that is is securely bonded, there will probably not be much of a problem. You may get some "ridging" between the wood and the PL but that is not a huge or insurmountable problem. Personally, for a shop fixture, I will usually let function dictate the method and let design considerations ride in the back seat. So in this instance I would prefer to run the PL over the edge (if I bothered with an edge at all!) But if I were building a "piece" I might want the wood exposed. Either way will work in either situation, again assuming (dangerous, I know...) that the method of attachment is secure.

[Ben Daniels]

Thanks, guys. I've decided to go ahead and laminate both sides before I add the edge. I appreciate the insights.

[john bateman]

I always thought the exposed wood edges on these types of fixtures was to take the abuse of the shop environment. So that you didn't have the laminate getting chipped every time you bang something into it.