Rust-Oleum calls it "Epoxyshield"... not so sure

[Mitchell Andrus]

I used Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield per the instructions. Mix part A and B, wait 45 minutes, roll onto floor. Simple. It was 65 degrees and the shop had been heated to 70 for 2 days prior.

2 days has passed.

The leftover in the can (about 2 1/2" deep) has a skin over it similar to the skin you get on oil based paints, but under this skin the paint is still quite wet with the consistency of pudding.

I'm having a tough time believing this stuff is really epoxy. Any epoxy I've ever used sets up solid no matter how thick or thin.

The floor came out great and it's just lost it's 'tackiness'. If it's only a GOOD painted finish, I'll be OK with that, but I didn't pay for paint. Each 2 gallon kit cost $109.00 at Home Depot. $54.00/gallon is a lot for anything that isn't true epoxy.

Their website says "epoxy" in the text.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=16

Anyone else try this, or pass on it?


PS. Used the multi-colored chips. Looks nice but I've already lost a small screw in the confusion at my feet.
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[Maurice Ungaro]

I have used the Rust-Oleum system on two different garage floors with outstanding results both times. I hope you prepped the surface as directed with the citric acid etching solution. It’s amazing how much dirt can be in “New” concrete. I will tell you that the temperature range that you are dealing with will be much slower to cure the paint in. I’ve had better luck with ambient air temp over 70 degrees.
As for the durability of the finish, I’ve dropped a 20 oz. framing hammer from a ladder (not on purpose) and the result was no damage to the floor or finish.

[Mac McQuinn]

I've only used boat building epoxies although in less than desirable conditions, I've experienced long set up times, as long as 2 weeks. Low temps and high humidity tends to really slow things down. My guess is it will harden eventually. If you can pipe some heat in there it should help things.

Mac

[Mike Reinholtz]

I have used this same product on both my previous garage and my current one, both times with excellent results. One word of caution, when saw dust is on the floor, it's like an ice rink even when wearing work boots. I find myself grabbing the push broom quite frequently. It's actually the reason I upgraded my DC system. Both floors I used this on were about 5 years old, but when I helped my father do it to his home near Chicago on old concrete the results were horrible. Having already done my own and helped others, I would like to think I had a handle on what I was doing. I not only used the product they give you with it and scrubbed excessively, I also used a Behr concrete cleaner to get old oil stains out. The concrete was damaged from 30 years of road salt and use, but I know it was clean and I let it dry for 4 or 5 days before painting. Even areas that looked like they were in good condition are pealing badly. My folks have been very disappointed in the outcome, it actually looks worse now than before. It lasted about 6 months before the peeling started.

I found the extra left over the next day had the same skin after doing my current garage but my last garage I specifically remember it all being solid. The difference with true epoxy from regular glues is that it dries chemically, not with air. So once mixed it should harden the whole way through. I really hope my floor doesn't start failing, after seeing it wasn't hard the next day I was pretty worried. I know it was mixed properly, I used one of those "squirrel cage" type of mixers in a drill and used all the contents of each can.

[glenn bradley]

Somethings not right here. Co-worker used the Rustoleum product on his garage. Drags motorcylce frames across it without issue. Was pretty much rock solid the next day. Still looks new years later.

[Mitchell Andrus]

I hope you prepped the surface as directed with the citric acid etching solution. It’s amazing how much dirt can be in “New” concrete.

Yes I did. It is amazing how clean the floor became.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Somethings not right here. Co-worker used the Rustoleum product on his garage. Drags motorcylce frames across it without issue. Was pretty much rock solid the next day. Still looks new years later.

The surface on the floor is just fine and getting harder. It will take a while to fully dry/cure. My question is.... is it a true epoxy? I quess I'll check on the remainder in the can for a few more days and see....
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[Mitchell Andrus]

My floor is about 15 years old but has never been used as a garage. It was just dirty.

I mixed the grit recommended to cut down on the ice rink problem.

[glenn bradley]

The surface on the floor is just fine and getting harder. It will take a while to fully dry/cure. My question is.... is it a true epoxy? I quess I'll check on the remainder in the can for a few more days and see....
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Ah, that's great to hear. I was feeling sick for you thinking maybe that stuff wasn't going to set up. My neighbor also has this type of floor treatment and I am jealous.

[Bill Orbine]

If you do a sample with out mixing in the catalyst, it's a good bet it's epoxy if the samples never hardens or takes much, much longer to set than with a mixed formula. Patience on cold floors.... it's warmer higher up.

[Jeremy Thompson]

Wow, that's pretty expensive. I picked up two boxes for the Rust-Oleum professional epoxy flooring for $29 last spring from Lowes. I got two boxes of the light gray and did my floor over a weekend. A year and half later I have had no problem with the floor and it still looks brand new. I used the black and blue sprinkles that came with the kit and it helps keep the floor from being too slick. I have all of my tools on wheels - other than my drill press. It's a two car gargage and all of the tools are pushed over to the side so my wife's SUV can be pulled in. We've had no problem with peeling or any other issues. It looks great when it's swept up and kept clean!

Highly recommended stuff!

[Gary Breckenridge]

RPM owns Rustoleum and they are willing to answer tech questions emailed to them.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Well, it's been 4 days, the stuff in the can is getting quite solid now, about the harness of a football.

I guess I expected that the greater quantity setting up in a thick mass at the bottom of the can would get HOT and set up a bit quicker.
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[Thom Sturgill]

Before finishing a floor with epoxy, test it to see if dampness is coming up through the concrete. Tape a plastic bag to the garage floor for 24 hours, then lift a corner to check. If it’s dry underneath you can epoxy coat it, if you see moisture don’t coat the floor with epoxy; water pressure will break the bond.

Also, check to see if a concrete sealer was previously used (water beads up when applied to the surface). If the slab is new, you must wait at least 28 days, preferably two months, for the floor to cure completely before applying a floor coating.

[Stan Mitchell]

I used the same product last June and have been very pleased with the results.

I live in a cooler climate which seemed to slow the cure process as you describe.

In fact, the slab off-gassed for close to a month after application which tells me it is definitely a slow cure product.

In another month you'll wonder why you didn't do this project sooner.