Add another funnel to the pile

[Kevin J Lalonde]

I started at noon on my first NE (walnut) and at about 3:30 I was attempting to finish up the bottom and well the tenon broke on mine also. So just glued it back and called it a day. But was wondering about the shape of it. I think it looks like the antique pine bowl I posted a couple of days ago. Do i need to take more off of the bottoms or...... Different curvatures? I've never taken a class so I'm not sure as how to achieve these "classic" bowl shapes. Thanks for looking.

[Richard Madison]

Kevin, It looks good from here, except the angle of the picture makes the bottom look too flat. Can you show us a straight profile shot? Nice smooth curvature but just appears to flatten out too quickly at the bottom.

[David E Keller]

Nice save. My eye wants to see the form taper more to the base... In other words, I'd like to see a smaller base. I struggle with curves/forms every time.

[Dennis Ford]

Good job on the upper part, bark and thickness looks great. I agree that the sides should curve in more towards the bottom. The outside shape likely made it difficult to maintain a consistent wall thickness near the bottom, leading to the negative thickness surprise.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Kevin - great looking bowl! Really pretty wood and you did a nice job keeping all the bark!

I haven't taken any classes either but one of those self-taught lessons for me was to make sure that when you use a tenon - start the outside curve of the bowl such that the tenon is not included in your design. Meaning - where the shoulder of the tenon and bowl meets - start your curve from that point and work your way to the rim from there. Hope that makes sense - cause once you get used to forming your curves that way - you won't be cutting through the bottoms any more when removing the tenon.

[Kevin J Lalonde]

Yeah Steve thats exactly what happened. And I was wondering how you dont include the tenon in the shape of the bowl. Someon said the bottom looked flat and I was thinking that it almost had to be flat because of the tenon. Thanks for the pointer. I have another blank exactly like that one and will try again tomorrow.

[David E Keller]

Kevin... Steve may not have taken a class but he's got this turning thing down. I make my tenon first then proceed to making my outside shape. I also use a wall thickness gauge(the big scissor tongs) when in doubt.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Kevin - I am a firm believer in photos - so hope this helps.

External Curve.jpg

You can see in the photo where the blank and the tenon meet - a nice 90* angle which provides the best grip for the chuck jaws. In my case - the Talon chuck - I do know that some jaws require a dovetail but the premise holds true for both.

[Kevin J Lalonde]

Thanks for the photo steve. I was using the Gaget on the bowl but forgot that i had the flat spot so. When the Gaget said i needed to get a little bit thinner, i followed to the bottom of the bowl with my cut and there went the bottom WITH my cut!

[Jarrod McGehee]

Like others have said, I'd make the base a little bit smaller. and less of a foot

[Richard Madison]

Kevin, What's a "Gaget"?

[Curt Fuller]

You've already gotten some good advice. I just wanted to add that that's really going to be a pretty bowl. I love the white sapwood/dark heartwood combo.

[Kevin J Lalonde]

Kevin, What's a "Gaget"?

The Gaget measures bowl thickness. It's blue and can be purchased from woodcraft. It measures bowls up to 16" deep if I am not mistaken.