Varigrind or varigrind 2 ???

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

I have the wolverine jig and would like to learn how to properly sharpen spindle gouges. I understand that the profile they come with should be changed to a fingernail profile ( hope that's the correct term ). Is the varigrind or the varigrind 2 the best way to do this ? I am a newbie and freehand grinding is out my skill set at this point. Thank you so much for your advice.

Jim

[Mike Golka]

1 vote for varigrind 2.

[Thom Sturgill]

If I didn't already have the var1-grind and experience using it, I would opt for the vari-grind 2. There is a learning curve for either, but I am sure it is steeper with the original. I am not completely sure that I agree with their statement that a perfect grind is a cylindrical section though.

Most people seem to set the angle on the varigrind once, and pin it, weld it, or otherwise fix it so that it cannot move. That reduces one variable in the grinding equation. Use a gauge to insure that projection of the tool from the varigrind stays the same and that reduces another. Use a gauge to insure that the rotation pocket remains the same distance from the wheel (which is contantly changing every time you grind) and you reduce another variable. What's left is learning to move the tool in a smooth movement and maintain the proper shape at the nose. There are reference grinds (soft steel blanks ground to different angles so that you have a standard to compare your grind to) that help you learn to be consistent and not deviate too far from the 'ideal' or return to it if you have ground a 'special' grind and want to return the tool to a standard grind.

After a while, the standards get less and less used and you will feel more able to occasionally grind by hand (saving setup time) and use the jig only to return the tool to a base configuration.

[ROY DICK]

It depends on what you get, and learn to use.
Either one in my opinion.

Roy

[Dan Forman]

I've only used the first version. What I've heard, is that the new one keeps your tool at the center of the wheel, which can be both and advantage and disadvantage, as the old one will allow you use the whole surface of the wheel, creating less wear in the center, thereby extending the life of the wheel by reducing the frequency of dressing the face. On the other hand, the older one is a bit more difficult to control, the tool often wanting to skid off on one direction or the other. Even when it does, it's not much of a problem, so I'd stick with what you already have for now, assuming that you have the old varigrind.

I would recommend, however, that you get the upgrade kit for the old one, which makes it much easier to get the tool out the holder when you are finished sharpening. This just upgrades this point of irritation on the old holder, doesn't tun the old varigrind into the new one. http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st..._upgrade?Args=

Dan

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

I just have the basic wolverine jig and am trying to decide between varigrind 1 & 2.

Jim

[John King]

My understanding is that there is no difference in tool grinding characteristics between the Varigrind 1 and 2. One can grind the identical profile on either of the jigs. The Varigrind 2 eliminates side-to-side movement of the tool during grinding. But if one holds the Varigrind 1 in the center of the grinding wheel while grinding a tool, they get the same grind as the Varigrind 2.

Make sense? - John

[Ryan Baker]

Varigrind 1.

The difference between the two is that the varigrind 2 forces the tool to stay in the center of the wheel (prevents the user from running off the side of the wheel). That is also precisely the reason to choose the original. Learning to keep the tool on the wheel is really trivial to do. (And running off the side of the wheel is no problem unless you are pressing too hard to start with.) More importantly, the original allows you to put more even wear on the wheel and to sharpen long side bevels (longer than half the wheel width) that you can't do at all with the varigrind 2. Also note that all of the varigrind 1 jigs being made/sold now already have the upgrade to the screw/holddown, so the upgrade is not necessary unless you have an older one.

As for the spindle gouge grind, many people do put a fingernail grind on them, but that does not necessairly mean that you should. The fingernail grind lets it get into tighter places and create finer details, but it is more 'grabby' and harder to control smoothly on larger, sweeping shapes. There is a place for a traditional grind as well as a fingernail grind. (The traditional grind just rotates about the gouge axis for sharpening -- no varigrind used.) If you only have one spindle gouge, a mild fingernail grind might be a good choice. I find that a better combination is a larger (~ 1/2") traditional grind gouge and a smaller ( 3/8") detail gouge with a fingernail grind.

[Cyril Griesbach]

The Vari-Grind 1 for many of the reasons Ryan just stated. If you get the current on it will come with the upgraded knob that Dan links to.