Looking for my first router table

[Dave Schreib]

I am shopping for my first router table and came across the attached MLCS site.

Right now I am using a midsize Milwaukee non-plunge router but my plan for the future is to get a larger router with a lift of some sort.

Do people think that this table will adequately accomodate that future set up? Is there anything that this table and fence set up is lacking that I should look for? Is it big enough?

Thanks in advance.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../ec091127.html

[sean m. titmas]

i suggest buying a top quality fence like the premium Mast-R-Fence or the economical Rout-R-Fence from JessEm.
Add to that the PC 3.25hp motor and a home made table with some Kreg tracks and you will have an excellent router table that will cost less and serve you better than something store bought.

[Thom Sturgill]

While Jessem is hard to beat, Woodpecker (woodpeck.com) is now carried by Sears. Router Table Depot also has some nice tables. Also look at Kreg.

Personally, I bought a table top and insert and built a cabinet based loosely on Norm Abrams. I don't use it enough to justify the price of a lift, but the router I bought can be adjusted through the table.

[Wayne Cannon]

I would avoid tables/fences that utilize slots in the table top, as that makes it more difficult to maintain a flat top surface -- though many are going that way these days for simpler fence clamping. Adequate bottom-side bracing works, though. Slots (or T-track extrusions) on the ends are fine.

Woodhaven has a nice selection of both phenolic and MDF table tops (and a couple of tables). I like Woodhaven's fence. I've tried a number of fences and find it to be equal or better than any I've tried. It is made from standard components (e.g., T-track extrusions, etc.), making it especially easy to customize (e.g., to add non-proprietary and home-made fine vernier adjustment mechanism, stops, feather boards, fence-riding sliding fixtures, etc.).

Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood makes my favorite fence. It can work as a traditional "clamp both ends" fence into a T-track, or pivot at one end (my favorite mode). The down-side for many: it's four feet long -- longer than traditional purchased tables, though you can make your own or buy an aluminum table from Sommerfeld (for which the router bolts directly to the top, not using the traditional rectangular plate).

Sommerfeld also has a nice set of plans and detailed notes for making your own cabinet-style base for a router table (change the dimensions if you don't want their larger style of top) -- the first seven pages show the assembly of the Sommerfeld fence and table, and the cabinet information starts on page eight.

[sean m. titmas]

I would avoid tables/fences that utilize slots in the table top, as that makes it more difficult to maintain a flat top surface --

Im not sure i understand your claim, please explain.
i have a double 3/4" top with 2 tracks routed into the surface and top is completely flat.

[glenn bradley]

The top you select, or rather the pre-milled plate opening, will have some influence on the lift and fence you are able to use. The MLCS opening would be oversized in one direction for the Woodpecker lift (that's the one I decided on) and the JessEm. I have avoided JessEm as I hear too many bad reports on their customer service but, search the comments of owners here and decide. Their products seem to get good reviews.

IMHO, to make this decision in order, I would decide on the plate/lift I wanted to use. Then decide on a fence. With those two decision made, now go looking for a table.

Any table with an opening smaller than the plate you want to use can be enlarged easily unless its steel or cast iron. Don't hear too many raves about phenolic tables but I do have read more than once where they have to go back as they aren't flat and won't get that way. If there are some satisfied phenolic table owners out there, chime in please.

I have had two pre-made tops with slots cut through for the fence and slots for the miter track either present or added/modified by me. With proper support underneath I have not had any problems with the top staying flat. I did have one sag on me that was only 3/4" MDF with only outer edge support . . . learned something on that one ;-)

P.s. I run a Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker PRL; pretty heavy setup, no issues.

[daniel lane]

I would avoid tables/fences that utilize slots in the table top, as that makes it more difficult to maintain a flat top surface -- though many are going that way these days for simpler fence clamping. Adequate bottom-side bracing works, though. Slots (or T-track extrusions) on the ends are fine.

Im not sure i understand your claim, please explain.
i have a double 3/4" top with 2 tracks routed into the surface and top is completely flat.

Not to speak for Wayne, but I think what he's saying is that slots cut in the table may weaken the table enough that a heavy router can pull a dish or bow into the center of it. Not will, mind you, but can. And with that, this buttinski is going to butt out.



daniel

[Randal Stevenson]

Just my opinion here.

Pretend you have been doing this a while and have the budget for your dream router and table setup (single router model), what do you have?

Now look at your table that your looking at, is the opening the same size or smaller?
If not, I would suggest looking at Pat Warner and Bill Hylton (spelling?) at your library or websites. I would think start with a homemade top, and when your ready for your full time table router, your going to have a better idea.

My router table was bought via the classifieds, around the same time as a plate (also either classifieds or Ebay). It is the brand as I always wanted my lift to be (and now have). Plan ahead, and save money long term.

[Larry Rasmussen]

Namely decide on the type of lift you want to end up with eventually first. There are a couple widely used router plate sizes. Whatever you do don't buy the table before deciding on the lift or router you want to use. With the growing # of manufacturers building the above table lift function into their routers plate size is less important than it used to be but still could lead to a real problem if you like a lift that won't fit your table. The table itself seems ok, nice size and per the ad a little thicker than average. I like to support the table a bit more than just around the edge so don't usually run into any sagging, slots or no slots.

You've got recommendations for several excellent sites selling tables, lifts, and other accessories. You simply have to do your homework reviewing what's available while paying attention to compatability of sizes.

Regards,
Larry R,
Seattle

[Don Morris]

One member said Phenolic tops tend to be not flat. I have a Bench Dog Phenolic ProTop. I have a machinist shop 36" straight edge and my top is FLAT. Then again, Bench Dog is a top-of-the-line company that makes quality router tables and tops. I also have a Bench Dog Pro Lift in the top. That's a top-of-the-line lift too, in fact it's solid steel, heavy with a PC 7518 in it, but there's no sag in my Phenolic top, and it's got tracks and slits. I've been through 3 iterations of router tables. Two home made versions. Changed once because I went from contractor TS to cabinet saw to which it had been attached. The other sagged on me because I designed it wrong. Actually, the second time I used Grizzly's ad-on table and it didn't have enough thickness of plywood under the composite surface. I added some MDF...not enough. I built the table underneath the Bench Dog table top close to the design as done in the Kreg Pocket Hole technique for Router Tables (video). Modified it to fit my dust evacuation system and drawer needs. I agree with above, you can save a lot of money by building you're own table. One comment by the professional who did the Kreg pocket hole table video that caught my attention and why I bought a commercial table top was: there are a lot of well made table tops out there and he thought it wasn't worth the effort now to make your own with so many well constructed ones available and the hole openings being so critical, etc. However, the hundreds spent to build below the top could be spent on building your own table to your own needs, gaining good dust collection, and drawer space. Good dust collection is important so I went that route. That's my take.

[rob mclaughlin]

I was faced with a similar situation recently. When I priced out a new router, router table, and all the accessories, it got me thinking about about stepping up to a shaper. I went that route and now have the tool that will handle all the router table jobs ( I have a router collet spindle) and much more. I picked up a lightly used Shopfox 3 hp and a full set of raised panel cutters for $1k