Do you "Break" your sandpaper?

[Yitah Wu]

I was trying to explain this to someone and it occurred to me that it might be something strange I learned...

Whenever I use regular sandpaper, I "Break" it by drawing it across a sharp edge (workbench edge for example) I pull it across a couple of times in different orientations to flex the paper and crack the adhesive.

IIRC I was told to do this in woodworking class perhaps in 7th grade.

From what I can tell it makes the sandpaper last longer by making it harder to load up and preventing the grit from coming off in chunks.

Do you do this? What do you call it?

[Paul Atkins]

Sounds interesting - never tried it. Most of my use is on the lathe and the paper get pretty 'broken' fairly quickly.

[glenn bradley]

I voted "huh?" but am pretty sure this is not a requirement on our modern paper/adhesive products(?). The paper I use is quite flexible right out of the pack.

[Mark Rios]

I call it crumpling.

[Jeff Willard]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

Wow, I'll have to try that...... Thanks!

[Scott Crumpton]

Most of my 1/4 sheets have acquired a curl toward the grit side of the paper. When using the 1/4 sheet ROS I always reverse the curl so as not to present the curled edge to the work surface.

[Josh Reet]

This thread brought up a long lost memory of my father doing that with his sandpaper. But I've got to admit, I haven't done it once in my adult life.

[Alan Bienlein]

I guess I'm only the second person to know what he was talking about. I learned from watching my father in the shop when I was a little kid. The paper folds so much easier and sands more consistently IMO.

[phil harold]

I voted always
but
really should have clicked "most of the time"

[Kent A Bathurst]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

I'm number 4. In deference to the recently deceased Patrick McGoohan, I should have waited a bit so I could be Number Six - but it's late here on the right coast, and it's bedtime.

[Wayne Sparkman]

For all the old handtool knowledge being brought back, there's still a thing or two to learn!

I'd like to hear feedback after some of you try this.

[Matthew Chamberlin]

I was taught to do almost a decade ago in High school woods class. I've never really been sure if it makes the sand paper last longer, so i tend to do intermittently.

[Tony Bilello]

............Whenever I use regular sandpaper, I "Break" it by drawing it across a sharp edge (workbench edge for example) I pull it across a couple of times in different orientations to flex the paper and crack the adhesive. .......From what I can tell it makes the sandpaper last longer by making it harder to load up and preventing the grit from coming off in chunks......

I dont know what brand or kind of sandpaper you are using so I can not comment on it. However, in my personal experience, I have not had sandpaper crack or grit fall off in chunks in well over 30 years. That was quite common on the old garnet paper. I use mostly 3M brand. Tomorrow I will try to remember to look at my sandpaper file cabinet and note the brand and the model.

[Yitah Wu]

I dont know what brand or kind of sandpaper you are using so I can not comment on it.

I typically use SiC or AlO papers, though I do have some garnet my dad bought perhaps 30-40 years ago.

I can't say whether chunks fall off if I don't "break" AlO paper since it's such a habit to do so. Obviously more of a potential on coarser grits and heavier papers.

As someone else pointed out, this makes the paper much more flexible for sanding curves, etc. Otherwise your paper gets crinkly - corners then don't do as good a job.

I do notice chunks coming off 120 grit H/L Mirka "gold" paper when re-use paper from my ROS to do hand sanding.