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Thread: Cleaning off dried glue from clamps

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Granby, Connecticut - on the Mass border
    Posts
    353

    Cleaning off dried glue from clamps

    Folks -

    I picked up a bunch of used clamps yesterday, a decent deal of $140 for 8 30" gros-stabils, 2 55" besseys, and a couple pipe clamps. They are in ok shape, very usable, but the bars on some of the gros stabils are a bit gunked up. I thought it would be nice to clean the bars up a bit, make the heads slide more smoothly, maybe save some aggravation later when the one spot I need to park the head at is too crudded up, etc.

    Anyhow, I was wondering what cleaning stuff folks had had success with for this job. Thanks -

    Ken

  2. #2
    Unfortunately, you're screwed. I'll take those off your hands if you wish....

    Just kidding.

    I'd first try prying them off with a beater chisel. The glue shouldn't bond too well to the metal. Usually, if you can get a lip up, the rest peels or pops easy.

    Try acetone or nail polish remover or lacquer thinner to soften it if you're still having probs.

    There are also stronger 'gunk' removers.

    Of course, remember, you want the sides to slide easy, but the teeth still have to grab, so watch what lube (if any) you put on the bar...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
    Posts
    3,147
    Do you know what kind of adhesive is on the clamps? PVA Type I and Type II can be softened and partially dissolved by very hot or boiling water. Boil the water and soak a towel in it. Then wrap the towel around the bar. You may have to do it a couple of times.

    If the adhesive is Titebond III, the above won't work. TBIII is a truly waterproof and heatproof adhesive. You may have to scrape it off, sand it off or use a wire wheel on your grinder.
    Howie.........

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    288
    Ken,
    Try using that Goo-Gone solution. It works on just about everything & seems pretty safe. I haven't tried it on clamps yet, but probably will, as I need to clean some of mine. I heard Norm say once that he waxes his clamps after cleaning.
    John
    NOTHING beats a failure,but a try.
    -------------------------------------------
    Have a Blessed Day,

    JMC

  5. #5
    Just get one of those cheap paint scrapers and have at it. I know it's risky to contradict Norm but waxing clamp pipes (or bars) is just about the dumbest idea I have heard this year. I'm sure you can guess why... but just in case, you don't want a really slick surface or the clutch plates can slip.
    David DeCristoforo

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    711
    I wonder if PVC primer would work. If it can melt PVC, I bet it would lift glue. I need to clean my clamps, and might just try the primer unless someone thinks it's a dumb idea.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
    Posts
    335
    I have had good success using a wire brush on a drill. It does not seem to affect the working of the clamps and they look much better as well.

    john lawson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    Most of my clamps are Gros-Stabils so I've had to clean off those serrations more than a few times. A heat gun can help soften it up some first but what's worked about the best for me is a sharp utility knife and cut off the glue blobs. Also if you're dealing with the parallel jaw clamps, dont assume the heads sticking is necessarily a sign of a gunked up bar. The GS have a sweet spot as far as the small lever arm that goes around the bars. Adjusted too far one way or the other and it doesn't slide very smoothly.
    Use the fence Luke

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aurora, Colorado (Saddle Rock)
    Posts
    514
    just scrape it off with whatever you have on hand. In the future, WAX them

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