Stebcenter drive center

[Fred Perreault]

I was wondering if anybody has used and/or has an opinion of the stebcenter drive centers. I have been using 2 and 4 spur drive centers with my Nova 1624, but it seems that they don't hold well in softer woods, and that one has to create rather precise cavities for them in all wood. Any ideas?
Thanks

[Dolan Brown]

I was wondering if anybody has used and/or has an opinion of the stebcenter drive centers. I have been using 2 and 4 spur drive centers with my Nova 1624, but it seems that they don't hold well in softer woods, and that one has to create rather precise cavities for them in all wood. Any ideas?
Thanks

I use and prefer the stebcenter. I have not used the spur drives since I got the stebcenter. I also have a small stebcenter that is held by a chuck. I like it but it does not hold a larger piece of wood very good. I wish I had a larger version that goes in the chuck. It is a great time saver since you don't have to remove the stebcenter and then mount the chuck - just remove the stebcenter and the chuck is already on the lathe.

[Ryan Baker]

I don't know what you mean by 'create rather precise cavities'. Just drive the center into the blank with a mallet and mount it on the lathe.

4-spur centers are best for spindle work. They don't dig in as well and don't work well on green wood or uneven surfaces. The 2-spur centers work much better on green or uneven surfaces, like rough bowl blanks.

Stebcenters are nice for some jobs. They pretty well replace the 4-spur centers. They are generally better for spindle work. The spring-loaded center can be a problem for really thin work. They don't dig in too deep, so once you 'break them loose' they will just drill a hole in the blank, and it is very difficult to get a good bite again.

I prefer a two-spur center for large, uneven, green or soft blanks. For most other things, the steb center works well. I don't have much use for a four-spur center any more.

[Scott Conners]

I use stebcenters for 90% of my between center work. I have both the large and small PSI ones, they work very well. The only time I still use a 4 prong center is when I'm driving a large bowl blank on the bark side, or when it's a very uneven surface. They can be broken loose with a catch or too hard of a cut, but I prefer that to the damage of the catch on my workpiece. Clearing the sawdust that tore out of the end and tightening the tailstock has always let me finish turning. They also work much better on hard materials like acrylic and rosewoods than a 4 prong.

[Dale Coons]

I'm a novice, but really like my stebcenter--ive used it for peppermills, spindles and small bowls. I find it easier to remount the work if I have to take it off. I rarely drive anything into the wood anymore--for what i do the little teeth provide plenty of grip.

[John Shuk]

I use one an it is a great center.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have used a 2 or 4 spur center since getting my steb's.

[Dan Forman]

I have used a 2 or 4 spur center since getting my steb's.

Bernie, is that a typo????

Dan

[Dan Forman]

I have the smallest and largest of the Sorby stebs. I like them a lot. I like to keep the speed of the lathe up there in order to avoid the steb spinning on the end grain. At slower speeds you are more likely to stall the workpiece and spin the center, especially while roughing to round.

Dan

[Horst Hohoff]

I have given up using a 4 prong since I got the stebcenters.
If i breaks loose, you just have to tighten up the tailstock a bit
and you are back in business. For special cases you might have
to look for another solution but all in all they are great.

Horst

[Fred Perreault]

Thanks for all the responses. i have asked santa for a Steb for Xmas. I hope i can hold out that long.....
Fred

[ron hossack]

Steb Centers are a little bit pricey for the little I would need one.

That being said, I use a 5/8" Fornster bit and it works very well on soft wood.

Another option is if you are handy you can make one relatively easily.

Sears sells a MT2 Tailstock Cup Center with M2 for about $8.00. Scallop the "cup" with a round file or Dremel tool and you've made one.

Doesn't have a spring loaded center but that's not important to me.

[Paul Atkins]

I guess I'll have to get one and try it, but I never thought the teeth would be that much help, but I was making my own and took the short cut. Here is my old post of what I made. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost...2&postcount=24

[Paul Atkins]

Well, that didn't work. (re did the link)

[terry richards]

I have the 1" PSI steb clone with the #2 MT. The body of the steb will chuck in the Supernova chuck by sliding the MT shaft through the hollow chuck down into the hollow spindle. THe MT will not seat, but the back of the steb head stops against the chuck body. The inner corners of the chuck jaws clamp down on the side of the steb body. With most of the shallower jaw types, the teeth of the steb project about 1/4 - 3/8" beyond the jaws so they don't get in the way.


I don't know if this will work with the 5/8" steb clone - I don't have that one.

This is great for turning a tenon on the spindle, removing the steb and chucking the wood in the jaws without having to remove the chuck from the lathe. Alternatively, if you are doing light spindle work, you can do the entire project without chucking the wood. Just keep the tailstock quill tight enough to hold the wood on the steb teeth, and check the tightness of the chuck occasionally, since this is a metal-to-metal clamping operation.