Nakashima table

[tyler mckenzie]

Well i have an order for two tables, made from Garry oak. I just finished the first top. Now beginning on the second. If interested more here.

Still not sure how to finish these tables, they're going in a coffee shop. They'll see a lot of abuse.

[Jason Strauss]

Epoxy / resin. I think some people call it "bar top". I've never used the stuff, but it would seem to provide ultimate durability.

[John Thompson]

Ditto Jason for a coffee shop or bar.

[John Shuk]

I have to disagree. I would use a Tung oil or Boiled linseed oil for a finish.
I just think epoxy or even thick polyurethane will take away from the character and appearance of this particular table which has a very nice organic look and feel. The oil will impart a warmth while inviting the touching and handling that is going to provide the ultimate finish over time.
Just let nature take it's course.
My opinion.

[John Thompson]

I have to disagree. I would use a Tung oil or Boiled linseed oil for a finish.
I just think epoxy or even thick polyurethane will take away from the character and appearance of this particular table which has a very nice organic look and feel. The oil will impart a warmth while inviting the touching and handling that is going to provide the ultimate finish over time.
Just let nature take it's course.
My opinion.

John... I think Jason made the recommendation (and I dittoed) on the strenght of the statement that the table top would be used in a commercial coffee shop. I totally agree with you that boiled linseed or tung would give off a nice patina but.. it literally won't give any protection from scuffs that will occur in that enviroment. Nor will it give any protection from water spills.. any harsh abrasives (or even just a wet rag) coffee shop employee's will use to wipe the top as much as 30-50 times a day.

So... I totally agree with your method but just not under the circumstances of this particular application. I have a friend who owns a coffee shop at West Georgia College and I drop by on week-ends often. Table tops at his place get some pretty hefty abuse with lap-tops dragged across them and frequent spills.. etc.. etc....

Regards...

[John Shuk]

As a dedicated coffee shop guy I understand the abuses that this table will undergo. I just honestly think that given some time under such pressures the wood will take on such character. It will not look new for sure but it will belong in that shop and no place else.
When I look at that table I can't help but feel that it is made to touch and enjoy and sense. And I suppose that is what I like about coffee shops in general. It just screams that "I am the sum of my parts."

[Prashun Patel]

In any other setting, I'd agree with you John about the touchability being important. (although even then, I'd add a measure of varnish to the oil to give a little more protection). However, we're talking about COFFEE here, not nicks and dings. I think it'll get stained and that will just make it look nasty and dirty over time, not "Kevinized", as Nakashima might say.

I think Behlen's Rockhard and Waterlox would be good choices here - brushed on, several coats thick.

If you really want an in-the-wood finish, then I'd use either an oil varnish blend or a wiping varnish. Thin it way down, then flood it, let it sit until it just starts to gum, then wipe it all off really vigorously. The WV will dry faster than the OV, and it will start to build after a coat or two, so you have to watch it. This will add more protection vis-a-vis oil, but will retain some touchability.

FWIW, I find thin, satin or semigloss film (i.e., lacquer, shellac, varnish) topcoats to all be quite touchable.

[John Thompson]

I do understand your sentiments John. I would think that since Tyler is doing this for a paying client.. it would be wise for him to ask the client what he or she perfers after he explains the various methods and how they would react to them.

I agree with Shawn about coffee spill rings as coffee has tannin acid and it can get nasty as the ones on my work-bench have. I don't really care about them on the bench as it had no visual effect that bothers me personally when working on it. But.. this is a different situation that is going to reflect the quality of Tyler's work over time which can affect word of mouth referals for future work. So again.. probably a good idea to explain the various finishes to the client in advance with pro's and con's for each method that could be used.

BTW.. can you tell I have a week's dead time on my hands tween projects as I wouldn't normally get involved in a running discussion as this when fully involved down there in the hole.

Have a good day...

[Jason Strauss]

Tyler,

It might be worth your while to do a mock-up of the finish for yourself and the customer. On the same species of wood as the project, show him/her what a couple of options look like, explain the pros and cons of each, and then let them decide. I've done this a couple of times. I just keep the mock-up for future use. You might have a recommendation in mind, however. Both times I've done this with a customer, they ask what I would recommend, and then chose that.

John Shuk and Shawn,

I too understand your points of view, and in fact, mostly agree. However, the abuse that a commercial space takes is often underestimated. While much of the public can appreciate a fine piece of furniture, that doesn't mean they'll respect it. "It's not mine, so why should I care?" seems to be the attitude these days. IMHO, for this application, sacrificing a little aesthetic appeal for durability gets my vote.

Now, this beautiful table were in my house, I'd definately go with a more subtle finish.

[John Shuk]

I do understand your sentiments John. I would think that since Tyler is doing this for a paying client.. it would be wise for him to ask the client what he or she perfers after he explains the various methods and how they would react to them.

Absolutely agree with that.

I also agree with the varnish component.

I just think most times I like things that are well worn and comfortable.
It promises to be a really great table. There is no arguing that these are two great slabs of wood!

[David Gendron]

IMO, the "bar top" finish will look to plastici. I also think that a oil varnish blend could work realy well, espacialy if you manage to do a build up of the finished, like a 3 third mixe but with higher varnish content for the last few coats.
Just my $0.02.

[tyler mckenzie]

Definitely beating myself up on my choices. I do appreciated everyone's ideas and comments. I do think the bar top is out, the application would be a pita with all the checking, knots, and eased edges. I have two routes that i'm contemplating: Waterlox satin, or general finishes high performance polyurethane satin. I like the idea of moving towards a water based product for the non-yellowing characteristic. I'll have to make up my mind soon.. eeekk.

[Matt Evans]

just a note on the epoxy finishes. . .

-Some of them are sort of soft, and will scratch as people toss keys and such on the table. Check each product for specifics, and do a test/sample if you can.
-The edges will need to be protected with something, depending on the bond you get with that particular wood.
-You are going to need a lot of time for the finish to cure, all of which needs to be without any dust in the area.
-Keep the coats you put on sort of thick, as thin coats do not level out and look terrible after curing.
-If you go with the epoxy finish, make sure to use a high gloss finish to finish the rest of the table. It just won't look right if you don't. The epoxies tend to come out looking either really wet and shiny or just really glossy, and a dull finish on the rest of the table might not be the best thing.

My personal recommendation is to call a local boat shop and see if you can't get a fiberglass resin to use, or if they have a specific recommendation for wood parts exposed to the elements (think cedar strip kayak finishes. . .)

You could also do Spar Varnish.

[Bill Wyko]

Possibly casting resin.

[tyler mckenzie]

what's a casting resin?