Snap lock pipe vs. spiral

[Fred Perreault]

I am in the design stage of a DC system for my 24'x32' shop. One of the first questions I have is the performance difference anybody can reveal between spiral and snap lock pipe. There is a cost difference, of course, but what of friction losses, strength and any other considerations? I have an older Grizzly 2hp blower, and I was going to draw the material directly out of the shop into a pile/bin/dumpsteror whathaveyou.
Thanks,
Fred

[Robert Parrish]

I recommend you use spiral pipe. You are going to have to seal every joint and connection to prevent loss of suction and it is easier to do with spiral pipe. Here is where I bought my pipe and they have a lot of info on their website.

http://www.airhand.com

[John Keeton]

Sealing the joints with snap lock is as simple as using the metal tape along the seams and around the joints - takes seconds literally. applying silicone to all elbows and connectors after the job is done takes 45 minutes or so depending on your install. I think you will find a substantial cost difference, but of the two, spiral is obviously a heavier duty and better product. In the end, it was not worth the difference for me.

[Bob Borzelleri]

Sealing the joints with snap lock is as simple as using the metal tape along the seams and around the joints - takes seconds literally. applying silicone to all elbows and connectors after the job is done takes 45 minutes or so depending on your install. I think you will find a substantial cost difference, but of the two, spiral is obviously a heavier duty and better product. In the end, it was not worth the difference for me.

What John said.

[Mitchell Andrus]

A few minutes with silicone on your finger is the only real difference unless you've got to meet gov't specs or something similar. Go for less expensive snap lock and take the Mrs. to dinner with the difference.
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[Thomas Pender]

I used snap lock and sealed it up with clear silicon and tape, easier and cheaper, so I endorse what everyone ahead of me said. Plus, even on the seams I have never seen any dust, so I figure snap lock definitely works good enough.

[Fred Perreault]

Thanks for the responses. I figured that snaplock would suffice, with an extra hanger here and there. I have done my share of wood stove installs, etc. with snap lock. The tape is obvious, but the silicone. Do you just use it as a sealer on the outside of the adjustable fittings? Of course, any help containing the vacuum pressure is a big plus. I'm gonna have less dust to kick around soon.....
Thanks
Fred

[William Schmitz]

I suggest a local HVAC supplier, such as RE Michel for straight pieces of snap lock in the heavier grade. 30 is too flimsy. I think I used 26 and it was quite sufficient.

For elbows, ys and other fittings I used www.kencraftcompany.com. I found their clear flex tubing a little thin, and liked the flex at Wynn Environmental better.

Those segmented elbows are the worst for air loss. I put silicone on the joint of each segment after it was in place. Other then this, I just silicones the joints of each fitting. The seam on the straight snaplock does not leak in my experience.

[John Keeton]

Fred, this is a pic from my install, and I don't believe I had siliconed everything as the runs aren't complete. But, the tape is visible, and I just ran a bead of silicone around each of the joints in the elbows and wyes, and carefully smoothed it with my finger - keeping in mind possible sharp edges.