Resawing problem with Delta BS

[Ken Shoemaker]

I tried the search function for my problem but couldn't find it.

Question: I keep getting a bowing in the wood when resawing a 4" board.

I retensioned the Timberwolf 1/2" blade several times on the 14" Delta. Finally, I stopped what I was doing and completely tuned the saw, THEN, retension and runied another board. UGHHH!!!

I'm pretty new at wood working so I ask, Would would a dull blade act like?? I'm not suggesting that my blade is dull, although it could be, I just wonder the answer to the question while I'm asking.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

[Josiah Bartlett]

What kind of fence are you using? If you haven't compensated the fence for blade drift you can get a bow even if the tension is right and the guide blocks are set up. I'd guess that is your problem.

[Myk Rian]

Yes, a dull blade will cause the problem.
I've never had problems no matter what fence I use, but if you don't compensate for drift, you can have problems.
How do you tension the blade? Is it a new blade?
Are you pushing on it too hard?

I have a Delta 14" w/riser and use a TW 1/2" blade with no problems. I use the flutter method to adjust the tension. It is explained on the blade package and on the TW website.

[Ken Shoemaker]

I Think I set the drift wrong. I just read more about it. I'll try it again tomorrow. Also, just read the TW "flutter method. I'll try that tomorrow too.

Thanks guys. Ken

[mark kosse]

A dull blade will both wander and bow on thicker wood. On thinner hardwood it will just wander. If it exhibits those characteristics, change the blade.

I rarely use thicker than a .25" blade. I'm sure lots here think differently but they work the best for me and I rarely have any of the problems folks talk about on the site. Just FYI, mark

[Pete Bradley]

Most likely your band is dull.

[John Coloccia]

If you've just seen the TW flutter method, and you've been setting the TW blade to the same tension as other blades, then you're WAY too tight on the TW. The TW is a decent blade, but it cuts very poorly when it's not tensioned properly. It does for me, anyhow.

When you're tensioning the TW, stop after the first flutter, by the way. This doesn't make sense now, but it surely will when you tension it for the first time. First flutter will come and go, and then it'll start to flutter again. You've gone too far...the first flutter's where to stop, and it'll probably come up a lot quicker than you'd think.

[Chip Lindley]

I've found it almost *impossible* to over-tension a 1/2" blade on a 14" Delta, without using some sort of *cheater bar.*

More likely under-tensioning will certainly cause a blade to bow in the cut. With a fence set to the same *lead* as the blade, I have sliced off 3/32" veneers up to 4", with consistent results. IF I started with a perfectly flat board I ended up with perfectly thicknessed veneers with a Starrett 1/2" 4TPI hook tooth blade. (no intermediate face jointing after each cut)

Dull blades cause more pressure be exerted to push stock through. This certainly can cause bowing in the cut.

Each sharp blade has it's own optimum feed rate. This is best determined by the *seat of your pants*. (same as on a TS) If you crowd it, bowing can result. If you feed too slowly the stock can be burnished and heat build-up can dull the blade prematurely.