Motor upgrade for lathe

[Raymond Sprouse]

I am trying to setup my remote now and have some questions for all of you. I have included a list for the buttons/switches I am planning to buy to allow run, stop, forward & reverse, and speed control. Below are some pics from my vfd manual control terminals.






I am planning on purchasing the following parts from automationdirect.com

Pushbutton, 22mm metal, momentary, red 40mm mushroom operator, 1 N.C. contact block

Pushbutton, 22mm metal, momentary, black 40mm mushroom operator, 1 N.O. contact block

Selector switch, 22mm metal, 2-position, maintained, black knob, 1 N.O. contact block

22mm potentiometer with 10 Kohm resistance, black handle.

Four-hole plastic enclosure for 22mm devices, 185mm H x 70mm W x 51mm D, 40mm between hole centers, gray top

Number 13 on the contact terminal shows the power supply for the POT. The FWD and REV terminals, I assume, come from the output from the selector switch. I don't understand where to get the power for, or where the output goes for the other buttons/switches. Can anyone help me with the other connections.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[Raymond Sprouse]

Any help from anyone?

[Raymond Sprouse]

So now I am trying to setup my remote now and have some questions for all of you. I have included a list for the buttons/switches I am planning to buy to allow run, stop, forward & reverse, and speed control. Below are some pics from my vfd manual control terminals.






I am planning on purchasing the following parts from automationdirect.com

Pushbutton, 22mm metal, momentary, red 40mm mushroom operator, 1 N.C. contact block

Pushbutton, 22mm metal, momentary, black 40mm mushroom operator, 1 N.O. contact block

Selector switch, 22mm metal, 2-position, maintained, black knob, 1 N.O. contact block

22mm potentiometer with 10 Kohm resistance, black handle.

Four-hole plastic enclosure for 22mm devices, 185mm H x 70mm W x 51mm D, 40mm between hole centers, gray top

Number 13 on the contact terminal shows the power supply for the POT. The FWD and REV terminals, I assume, come from the output from the selector switch. I don't understand where to get the power for, or where the output goes for the other buttons/switches. Can anyone help me with the other connections.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[John Hart]

Raymond...I'm having trouble seeing the details of the schematics. Where can I find the original PDF of the manual?

[Raymond Sprouse]

Sorry John, I thought they would come out better. Here is a link.

[John Hart]

By the way...going by what I can make out in these diagrams, the controller requires a 10VDC input from an external supply such as a PLC. Now, you can supply voltage from a number of devices like a plug-in AC-DC power thing like what you use for laptops, radios...etc. The supply doesn't need to be a high-current rating....just enough to supply the bias voltage for the poteniometer.

Off hand, I would say that the pot that you've selected is incorrect, as you've chosen a 10Kohm pot, as opposed to the specified pot of 0 to 5Kohm. It may not make a difference, but may not function between 5 and 10 Kohm...which means your pot resolution may be too harsh during operation of the lathe.

But, don't hold me to this until I can completely understand the circuit. I kinda need to see the manual.

[Raymond Sprouse]

By the way...going by what I can make out in these diagrams, the controller requires a 10VDC input from an external supply such as a PLC. Now, you can supply voltage from a number of devices like a plug-in AC-DC power thing like what you use for laptops, radios...etc. The supply doesn't need to be a high-current rating....just enough to supply the bias voltage for the poteniometer.

Off hand, I would say that the pot that you've selected is incorrect, as you've chosen a 10Kohm pot, as opposed to the specified pot of 0 to 5Kohm. It may not make a difference, but may not function between 5 and 10 Kohm...which means your pot resolution may be too harsh during operation of the lathe.

But, don't hold me to this until I can completely understand the circuit. I kinda need to see the manual.

I am not sure I follow. Do you think I need a PLC to operate this vfd or to use a remote with this vfd?

By looking at my diagram on post #11 figure D, the following should be true:
G is the ground from my 220 line
L1/L is one of the power line from my 220 line
L2/N is the second power line from my 220 line

U,V,W are the outputs to my motor. The G on the right is the motor ground.

Is this correct so far?

[John Hart]

Yep..you have everything right so far.

The question now is how to supply the remote operation signal.

I just read the manual....and it looks like you can supply command signals from a number of different kinds of sources....such as a PLC...or a PWM generator, or a standard 0-10V potentiometer controlled supply.

You've chosen the pot option, so you're good to go. The 10Kohm pot you've chosen may not work as it may limit the current too much...but then again, it might work just fine. The controller might be versatile enough to handle it. Nevertheless...the pot ECX2300-5K on the same page would be the correct one...you might as well get that one.

But regardless....Your main concern right now is supplying a 10VDC control voltage to the potentiometer so it can supply 0-10 Volts over its span.

That's accomplished by getting a 10VDC supply (simple plug-in type) that will cost you less than 10 bucks. You'd wire up the supply to the pot and then route the the output of the pot and the ground to the controller on Terminal 12 and 11 respectively.

If you don't understand the potentiometer wiring, I'll be happy to create a drawing for you.

[Raymond Sprouse]

Thanks a lot John. I will get the POT that you mentioned, and 10vdc wont be a problem.

What about the run, stop, forward, and reverse? Any idea where to connect them?

[John Hart]

Give me a couple minutes.....I have a meeting right now.

I also want to re-verify your 220 hookups. (L1-L2-G may not be correct)

[Raymond Sprouse]

Take your time John. I appreciate everything you've helped me with.

[John Hart]

Ok...well...first things first. The 220V hookups you described are correct. Rock on.

Next stuff....slap me if I'm confusing.

I'm questioning the purpose of the Stop and Run buttons. In programming the controller operation, you have the following choices:

0....Keypad Operation (with FWD and REV by external signal)
1....External Signal
2....Keypad Operation (Always FWD)
3....Keypad Operation (Always REV)

Now..with these choices, the only way that you can incorporate external Run and Stop ...is to disable the keypad completely with option 1 (External Signal)

It seems that the Stop and Run buttons are quite convenient on the controller....Are you sure you want to disable this?

[Raymond Sprouse]

Actual, I am only thinking of making a remote to keep the vfd safe from sawdust ect. from the lathe and other tools. I could just mount it in a convenient location and use the controls on the vfd. There is a way to switch between forward/reverse without an external signal right?

Do you think that is a better solution?

Thanks again for your help John. I am a lot less confused now. I read that manual 1/2 dozen times without much success.

[John Hart]

Hey.....this is fun Raymond. I could be working on a database right now...'course then, I could get fired right now. Hmmm

Anyway....This is really your choice Raymond...but the thing about this controller is that it is designed to be operated by the keypad or by some remote controller...and they are assuming some fairly significant logic to get the all the features. (This is where a PLC comes in handy)

But...of course, with a lathe, you pretty much just need the basic stuff like direction and speed control

You could protect the controller with a shield...(Hinged Plastic box put together with silicone caulk)

But....I did come up with an idea....

...let's say you want to go with the switching. You need another power supply to supply 24VDC to the external inputs.

You could use two power supplies (one for the Pot and one for the switches) Or you could get a multiple output Power Supply.....Orrrr, you could get a 24 Volt supply and stick a 50cent 10VDC Regulator on it to split them up...whatever. Easy-peasy.

To accomplish Run and stop with switches could be done this way: According to the manual...Anytime the switch is in Forward or Reverse...it is in run mode. Anytime there is no signal, it is in STOP mode. So your Run/Stop switch should really be an On/Off switch to supply power to the Forward/Reverse switch. So, instead of the two momentary switches for Run and Stop...replace them with another selector switch.
Two Selector switches ---> RUN/STOP FWD/REV

Wire up the output of the FWD/REV switch to the FWD and REV terminals on the controller.
Wire up the output of the RUN/STOP switch to the FWD/REV switch
Wire up the 24V output of the power supply to the input of the RUN/STOP switch.

Program F02 to 0 (Keypad Operation - FWD/REV change by external signal)

With this setup, you could still have the keypad active...but have your switches at the lathe.

[Dave Schell]

Doesn't your VFD supply it's own DC power for the remote control switches? The Hitachi VFD I used in my Vicmarc build had a 24v power terminal that supplied the power for all my switches. See the thread "vicmarc barebones" and reference my post on 2-27-09 for pics of how my remote was wired. I find it very odd that would you need to supply an internal powersource for your remote on any modern VFD.