Show me your micro-adjusters for Crosscut Sled

[Glen Butler]

I am humble in the presence of great mathmatics. However, what exactly in the "5 step" or "5 cut" method? thanks.

Everything up there is simple mathematics, but it can be hard when it seems someone is pulling numbers out of the air. I have a hard time following someone elses steps that they went through too. Everyone's mind just does the steps in a different way. I can explain in more detail what every number is and where it came from and it surely will make a lot more sense to you. Just ask.

[Joseph Tarantino]

i'm embarrassed to say that i cannot see how glen's micro adjuster works. i'd like to build another cut off sled and would like to be able to dial in the fence easily. glen...any chance for a few more pics that might clear up exactly how the adjust feature works? it would be much appreciated.

[Jeff Bartley]

If you have a set of feeler gauges you can try this: calculate the distance the fence needs to move, place a feeler gauge (whose thickness matches this calculated distance) in front of your fence, now clamp a block against the feeler gauge (sandwiching it between block and fence). Finally, remove gauge and very lightly tap fence to the block, re-secure the fence, and test.
I wish I had tried this when I squared up my last sled. I kept over-tapping. And a side note: remember not to loosen the bolt on the opposite end from the 'block and feeler gauge' or that end could move and throw everything off.
Jeff

[Al Willits]

Yes there is one on each end.

I use the tap method and its worked for me so far but I could see the set screw being much quicker.

I think I'd set the fence up so it was slightly more than 90 degree's and use only one of them though.

Al

[Neil Brooks]

Because I didn't build in a micro-adjuster, when I built my sled, and because I DO like the idea of a finer way to adjust it ....

More than once, I've grabbed a scrap block of wood, drilled a hole through it, and then screwed a long-ish (say, 3+ inches) machine screw through it.

Then, I've been able to simply _press_ the block against the rear fence of my sled, while turning the screw a thread or two at a time.

Particularly if my sled is sitting ON the table, with the runners IN the slots ... IT (the sled, itself) isn't moving -- only the rear fence (with bolts loosened) is.

If the sled WERE moving, I'd simply clamp it to the table, first.

It actually works fairly well ... nudging the fence a tiny, controlled, bit at a time.

Let's just say it's a really crude and cheap version of Rockler's ....

[Loren Hedahl]

My favorite method for woodworker tool micro-adjustments which I think might work well here is not to tap, but tape!

Scotch brand clear vinyl tape is about 2/1000 inch thick. Garden variety black electrical tape is about 5/1000 inch thick.

Of course doing this isn't entirely proper, but in my mind a practical, elegant solution especially if I need to get some work finished.

Another possibility might be to slightly taper the fence by sanding more at one end than the other, or by painting using heavier coating on one end.

Just ideas. If they help, fine.