I really love my Kreg Jig

[Jason White]

Did you use fine thread or coarse thread screws?

For hardwood, they recommend fine-thread to help prevent splitting.

Jason

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

[Lee Schierer]

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

I've never built doors with my Kreg, but I have seen wood split when I put in a screw close to the end of a piece. I'm not sure how you could overcome that other than to C-clamp the piece with lots of pressure while the screw is being driven in and even that may not work. It takes a bit more time, but I prefer to use lap joints for all my door frames. The lap joint is very strong and pretty easy to make with a TS and tenoning jig.

[Joe Scharle]

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

Since maple is dense, even 'soft' maple is as hard as cherry, you might try drilling a pilot hole into the receiver. I have a 6" 1/8 bit that I used when I experienced the same problem. I knew the wood was very dry and the first screw confirmed my suspicions! I setup for driving the screw, then drill thru the pocket, then drive the screw.

[Mark Garanzini]

Fine, just like it recommended. I think they were just too close to the edges. Here is another quandary.....when i set the collar on the drill bit, should the tip protrude the end of the work piece or not. Because mine didn't. I know they are self drilling, but should the little part of the bit go thru the end?

[John Lucas]

Mark,
I set the drill stop so that tip just penetrates the wood. I also suggest you not use power drill near the end of the screwing. It is easy to go too far fast. When the screw penetrates, I back out drill and hand tighten the rest of the way.

[Scott Loven]

There was a Fine Woodworking Joint test a while back that was very favorable to Pocket hole Joinery. If I recall correctly it really gets down to penetration from one piece of wood into another.
Scott

[Jay Allen]

should the tip protrude the end of the work piece or not. Because mine didn't. I know they are self drilling, but should the little part of the bit go thru the end?

No, according to Kreg's recommendations and the alignment marks that they cast into the K3 system.