Planning on getting a Festool TS 75 Need Feedback

[John Lucas]

I love them both.Great panel cutting saws and for that matter, they are great for everything.


You should go to the Festool submenu and you will see many stories on plunge saws. There is hardly a day when I do NOT use one or the other.

The Festool submenu: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm

The story: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-sc-1.htm

[Jeff Duncan]

A couple quick thoughts....

My first thought when reading your post was why not just fix the saw you have? Not a big deal to correct, or even replace completely, a circular saw base. Having said that once you own and have used the Festool saw, you'll likely never think about the cost again. They're well worth every penny.

Second, I also believe the 55" track is more than adequate for 48" wide panels, never had a problem.

Third, I use mine a good amount and have wished I went with the larger saw. Contrary to a previous poster, I have had mine bog severely while cutting through 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood. In my situation the 2 sheets were glued up and I had to proceed at a crawl to make the cuts in about 10 sheets.

Lastly if your going to make a lot of rip cuts in full sheets of 4 x 8 material, I recommend going with the single piece track. I have 2 - 55" lengths which I connect when needed and they work OK. but you do have to check them fairly often as any bumps will pull them out of alignment.

good luck,
JeffD

[Chris Tsutsui]

Chris, remember it's a plunge saw... I use the 55" rail for cross cutting full sheets of plywood all the time and have never had an issue...

I have no argument that you can't cut a 48" sheet with the 55" guide. I just say that it is easier if you have a 75" guide.

If you don't leave about equal distance of overhang on both ends of the 55" guide rail, you run the risk of plunging and having your riving knife hit the wood. It's safer IMO without having to use the plunge feature and having a longer guide because then the saw is moving a consistant speed throughout the cut. I've also had cases where the TS55 had some kick back during a plunge and on my TS55 I can't use the anti-kickback piece on the 55" rail if trying to make a 48" cut. The last part of the cut becomes too close to the saw coming off the guide.

Though if you use too long of a guide for the wood you're cutting and the guide is not supported on the over hanging areas. Then the weight of the guide will cause the center of the guide to lift up slightly. The festool clamps fixes this and I got their smallest standard set which was like $35 for a pair.

These are just some things I've noticed using my TS55 with small and large guides on sheet goods.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Jeff was it hardwood plywood that the TS55 bogged?

My TS55 can cut two 3/4" stacked sheets of A-grade MDF, and Baltic Birch Plywood.

I also have a fairly new festool brand blade that's the same as the stock one it came with.

When you guys say the 55" guide is more than adaquate for cutting a 48" sheet... Does this mean you could remove 5" from the rail and it would still be easy to use?

Maybe I am just doing something wrong because I have to remove the anti-kickback gaurd, make a plunge cut, making sure the riving blade doesn't hit when it plunges. In addition I have to make sure that when I exit the cut, the two areas where the saw makes contact with the guide are both snug and fully on the rail still.

If they added 5 more inches to the 55" rail I'd be a happy camper.

[Wes Grass]

"making sure the riving blade doesn't hit when it plunges"

The riving knife is spring loaded. What's the issue here?

[Eric DeSilva]

I've got the 55" rail and the 102" rail (think that is the size). I use the long one for the 8' sides and the short one for the 4' sides. I like the ability to handle the 55" rail--seems just right to me. I think, frankly, it was sized specifically for that reason. I used to clamp 'em down, but now I just set the rail on the board and cut. As you noted, as long as the saw doesn't start way off the board, you don't seem to have problems with the track moving.

Admittedly, I haven't sectioned a sheet of ply with the TS55 and the 55" rail in a few weeks, but I've used it an awful lot for that specific purpose. I just don't remember ever having the problem you are describing. I roughly split the 7" overhang on both sides. I set the saw so both contact points touch the rail, plunge and cut. I've never really noticed if the plunge action cuts the first few inches or not, but it has always worked fine for me...

[Jeff Duncan]

[QUOTE=Chris Tsutsui;1303687]Jeff was it hardwood plywood that the TS55 bogged?

My TS55 can cut two 3/4" stacked sheets of A-grade MDF, and Baltic Birch Plywood.

MDF is quite a bit easier to cut than ply. The material I was cutting was 2 sheets of veneer core maple ply glued together. I've done similar thickness cuts in MDF and it cuts like butter.
I wouldn't cut 5" off of the rail as then it would be tight, the 55" is just right. It sounds like you have an alignment problem with your saw. You should be able to plunge without the riving knife hitting anything, that's one of the great features of the saw is the ability to easily plunge anywhere. I'd give it a check to see if something somehow got knocked out of whack.

good luck,
JeffD

[William M Johnson]

You might want to check out the EZ Smart system. More flexible, cheaper, and zero tearout. You use your own saw, so for you that might be a problem. I no longer use my PM66 with sliding table for cabinet making. I do all cuts with the EZ Smart.

[Jason White]

If most of what you'll do with it is break down plywood and other sheet goods, the TS55 is more than adequate. That's what I use and have never needed anything bigger.

Jason

I just returned from the service center for Porter Cable with the bad news that it would cost $75.00 to fix a manufacturing defect on my PC 323MAG saw. Yes it is out of warranty, purchased 5 years ago and has been used to break down six sheets of plywood but it has never been dropped or abused in any manner. The saw blade to base alignment is off by approximately 1/16" (or roughly the amount of the saw kerf ) measured from the front edge of the blade to the base, then the measured tooth rotated to the rear and again measured to the base.

I have always had difficulty cutting accurately with this saw but the problem became obvious when I tried mounting it to a plastic base for the AIO clamp.

I received some gift cards and money for Christmas and my Birthday so I am planniing on replacing the PC MAG with a Festool TS 75. Yes it is expensive but so are all the competitive track saws. Can anyone give me some advice on Festool vs Makita vs De Walt? Also other than the difference in depth of cut on the TS 55 and TS 75 Festools are there other considerations?

[Eric Gustafson]

I have the TS 55. Primarily, I use it to break down plywood. The edge it leaves it is so nice, it becomes my first finished edge that goes against my fence when final ripping on the TS. I have two 55" rails that I put together when cutting the full sheet length. I always put them together with a piece of angle iron and a few spring clamps for alignment and get perfect straight cuts every time. So, two shorter pieces do work well. That being said, I would rather have a full length one piece guide for long cuts. I never found the 55" guide inadequate for crosscutting 48-49" sheet stock. It is not an issue.

I did not have a jointer when I built my torsion box assembly table. I went to my club's workshop at work, used their's, but never got straight edges (I think that jointer isn't setup right.) So I used my TS 55 to joint one edge of a handful of 2x4's. Worked perfectly. I never considered a circular saw a precision tool before. But the TS 55 really is.

[Dino Makropoulos]

I just returned from the service center for Porter Cable with the bad news that it would cost $75.00 to fix a manufacturing defect on my PC 323MAG saw. Yes it is out of warranty, purchased 5 years ago and has been used to break down six sheets of plywood but it has never been dropped or abused in any manner. The saw blade to base alignment is off by approximately 1/16" (or roughly the amount of the saw kerf ) measured from the front edge of the blade to the base, then the measured tooth rotated to the rear and again measured to the base.

I have always had difficulty cutting accurately with this saw but the problem became obvious when I tried mounting it to a plastic base for the AIO clamp.

Few notes here.
If your saw base is offset by 1/16", you can attach your saw to the AIO base
1/16" off. Very easy problem to fix.
Few things to remember with plunge saws.
A. Limited reach.
B. Limited power.
C. Limited choices for saw blades.
D. Limited use ( only with guide rails)



The PC is a very nice saw and the AIO clamp and guide is well made.
If you need more detailed info...
( better dust collection and antichip protection)
feel free to call me at 732-259-9984

BUT..If you're determined to take the plunge...
here are some facts that may help your decision.

Dewalt. Better plunge mechanism and two directional guide rails. (A nice feature to have)
Antikickback protection that is very well known from other
spring type plunge saws.
Better connection on the rails. Better square.

Makita. More power. Less money than other plunge saws.
You can use any blade with a provided adapter by Makita.
I just bought one for testing and so far...I like it for some plunge cuts.
BUT... There is no comparison with the regular and latest Makita sidewinders.
The 5007MGA and the 5008MGA are the best saws in the market today regardless the cost. Same with other Pro model sidewinders.
Milwaukee, Dewalt, Hitachi Pro model, ( all with electric brake )
Another nice feature to have on, next and off the rails.

good luck.
dino
eurekazone.

[Charles Krieger]

Thanks to all for the insight you have given me regarding this decision. I have considered fixing the problem with my PC saw and I've also considered selling the PC saw.

It appears to me that the brackets that mount the base to the saw are not formed correctly. Further the brackets seem insufficient to give positive base to saw alignment/stability even if they were correctly made. I would try to buy new brackets and replace them both but they are riveted to the base. It appears that special tooling is required to set the rivets. To sum up I'm not sure that I'd be satisfied with the saw's precision/stability even if the alignment problem was fixed.

There are times that I need a circular saw to do rough work that is non-guided. I think this saw will suffice for that so selling it is probably not in my interest either.

Perhaps I am just trying to justify getting on the slippery slope of Festool (or some other plunge track saw) but I think that the TS 75 is in my future. Before I make the leap I will call Dino and get better acquainted with the EZ.

Thanks to all that have shared their thoughts and experiences and recommendations.