Waterbased finish recommendation

[Arthur Travers]

Hi Jim:
This question was directed to you

Does it really make any difference whether using satin/semi or gloss if you are going to
rub and wax the finish?

[Jim Becker]

Hi Jim:
This question was directed to you

Does it really make any difference whether using satin/semi or gloss if you are going to
rub and wax the finish?

Well...if you're going to rub out to a sheen less that gloss, shooting gloss makes sense since you start at the "top" of the sheen and work your way to where you want to be. Further, your finish doesn't have the flattening agents in it...the stuff you have to stir really well if you buy a satin/semi product off the shelf.

Do remember that your finish should have plenty of time to fully cure before you rub it out. That applies to water borne finishes, too. There is still a chemical cure within the actual finish that's merely carried by the water onto the surface of your project.

[Jamie Schmitz]

Hi Jim:
This question was directed to you

Does it really make any difference whether using satin/semi or gloss if you are going to
rub and wax the finish?

I hope you are not talking about waxing a water base coating because I would not recommend this.

[Victor Robinson]

I don't have the finishing experience most others here do, but I used EM2000 varnish (satin) to finish our mahogany kitchen cabinet doors. I tinted some of the topcoat layers with black Transtint to tone (having used a WB stain as well, the color was coming out a bit lighter than I wanted).

I haven't used many of the other WB finishes out there, but my experience with the stuff was good enough that I may not even bother checking out other brands. I buy direct from Target Coatings via their Finishing Zone storefront.

[Scott Holmes]

When I use a water-borne it's usually EM6000.

[Jeff Nolan]

EM6000 is the best waterborne lacquer IMO, which considering it's the successor to the Oxford Ultima line is no surprise. There is really nothing to complain about, really good stuff.

The reason why I switched over to the 8000 line is twofold. The 6000 yellows like all lacquers do and on a couple of occasions I have had to go back to repair damaged work or match new pieces to work already in place and the finish became problematic, and while the 6000 is a durable finish it is also brittle which makes it more susceptible to damage.

The EM8000cv gives me extreme durability (water, UV, impacts) and remain water white clear. The one downside is that the time required between coats is longer so if you spray area isn't sterile that means there will be more opportunity for contaminants (it seems that without fail lately a bug will descend on whatever I have just sprayed). For kitchens, any wet location, and when durability is critical there is nothing else I will reach for.

It's also worth pointing out that Target has a new resin sealer, EM1000, that is replacing the 8800, that tints well and sands easily which makes it a great compliment to the 8000 top coat.

When I use a water-borne it's usually EM6000.

[Scott Holmes]

Jeff,

EM 6000 is a great finish, as are their other finishes... BUT it's not really lacquer, as in NitroCellulose Lacquer. It's an excellent acrylic water-borne finish. Technically it is a coalescing finish.

It does not dissolve when the solvent is reapplied as NC lacquer does when lacquer thinner is reapplied. Coalescing finishes are precured arcylic, softened in glycol ether and dispersed in water.

[Jeff Nolan]

It is absolutely a lacquer, an acrylic lacquer which is as you point out not a nitro-cellulose lacquer, but both are definitely lacquers. Are urushiol lacquers not really lacquers as well?

[Jim Becker]

Scott, EM6000 does burn-in/redissolve when re-coated. It's one of the features of the product.