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Thread: Cold Galvanizing Compound - Wow!

  1. #46
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    Gee maybe I read wrong, but I could have sworn there were a few concerns posted... silly me...
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  2. #47
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    Can we move on folks?

    Some of us will choose to err a little more on the safe side (and be vocal about our safety concerns for the potential benefit of others), others will throw caution to the wind a little more often. If you don't feel the warnings are necessary, state your side and move on. We're beating a dead horse...
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  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    Can we move on folks?

    We're beating a dead horse...
    Ha!! At least PETA won't be upset...
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
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  4. #49
    looks to me like you need to adjust your laser ramp at start. My guess is that is why you see a bit of a wabble in the pic, at least in my experince. I either adjust it by number or add an area to be engraved on either side of the actuall engraving that isnt on the material. This way no extra engraveing is on the material and the laser ramps up and down away from the actuall pic you want to engrave. Also i think its great that people are experimenting with new ways for us engravers to make money. I think there are hazards with any of the materials we engrave. Cermark..thermark..atomic art. They all have dangers. As opperators of the machine it is part of our responiblity to know what the danngers are and respond to them in a appriopiate way. Also as adlut members of a comunity whos sole purpose is to help support one another i think it breaks some general eddict to insult people and creat arguments over small issues like this thread has. Just support the guy and give helpfull information to him if you can.
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  5. #50
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    I gave it a try

    Joe
    Thanks for this. I have just about pulled my hair out trying to get CerMark to work. I got a can of Cold Galvanizing Compound from Lowes and gave it a shot.
    I'm trying it on a brass plate as I'm writing this, the brass ones have given me the biggest headache.
    With the cermark I used DNA to wipe down the surface to get it clean, I brushed it on with a foam brush, trying to get a nice even coverage, let it dry for 30 min. the put it in the laser, being 12" across it takes about 4 hours, at a speed of 5 and power of 100. I rinse off the cermark and sometimes it works and other the text just wipes right off.
    If this works on the brass I will be one very happy camper.
    Thanks again.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  6. #51
    Bob

    What is it that you're showing us here?

    Whatever it is it's a nice job of layout and placement.
    Mike Null

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  7. #52
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    Bob,

    Is that your cold galvanizing engraving result?? If it is, looks awesome!!
    George
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  8. #53
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    Thank you
    The left pic is the Cold Galvanizing sprayed on a chrome charger plate used for an award after being laser'd. The right pic is the finished product after the excess Cold Galvanizing removed.
    Also I have attached the brass charger plate.
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  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Heltibridle View Post
    Joe
    Thanks for this. I have just about pulled my hair out trying to get CerMark to work. I got a can of Cold Galvanizing Compound from Lowes and gave it a shot.
    I'm trying it on a brass plate as I'm writing this, the brass ones have given me the biggest headache.
    With the cermark I used DNA to wipe down the surface to get it clean, I brushed it on with a foam brush, trying to get a nice even coverage, let it dry for 30 min. the put it in the laser, being 12" across it takes about 4 hours, at a speed of 5 and power of 100. I rinse off the cermark and sometimes it works and other the text just wipes right off.
    If this works on the brass I will be one very happy camper.
    Thanks again.
    Very impressive experiment, Bob - can I assume the settings and instructions you state are for Galvanizing Compond and NOT Cermark? When you say "nice even coverage" do you mean it is thick enough not to see through?

    Thanks for posting, the brass looks fantastic, dee
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  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Gallo View Post
    Very impressive experiment, Bob - can I assume the settings and instructions you state are for Galvanizing Compond and NOT Cermark? When you say "nice even coverage" do you mean it is thick enough not to see through?

    Thanks for posting, the brass looks fantastic,
    dee
    Thank You
    Yes the settings are for the Galvanizing compound.
    also your right thick enough not to see trough.
    But as I said the cermark was hit or miss.
    Bob Heltibridle
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  11. #56
    Well--I'm going to try it on aluminum as I can't get a good result with Thermark on thin aluminum tags.

    Your results are great. Thanks for posting.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
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  12. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Heltibridle View Post
    Joe
    Thanks for this. I have just about pulled my hair out trying to get CerMark to work. I got a can of Cold Galvanizing Compound from Lowes and gave it a shot.
    I'm trying it on a brass plate as I'm writing this, the brass ones have given me the biggest headache.
    With the cermark I used DNA to wipe down the surface to get it clean, I brushed it on with a foam brush, trying to get a nice even coverage, let it dry for 30 min. the put it in the laser, being 12" across it takes about 4 hours, at a speed of 5 and power of 100. I rinse off the cermark and sometimes it works and other the text just wipes right off.
    If this works on the brass I will be one very happy camper.
    Thanks again.
    That looks great I have a client that is interest in plates so I have ordered some from Marco to test. I was going to try CLLT as a few companies sell an aluminum "puck" to transfer the the heat using my rerular press.

    I really like how yours came out. the only issue is 4 hours is a looonnnnngggg time. I have a 75 watt and even if I could do it in 2 hours it would be tough to get a good price in the market I'm at.

    Now all we need is a way to speed up the process.

    Thanks!

    Marty
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  13. #58
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    Bob,

    How do you wash the excess off? After you spray it on, how long do you let it dry before lasering?
    George
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  14. #59
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    May 2009
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    Maurertown, Va
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    George
    I used a paint roller tray and paint thinner.
    I let them dry for about 30 min. however because it takes so long to run it in the laser I left one over night. It wiped off with no problem.
    Last edited by Bob Heltibridle; 01-28-2010 at 5:47 PM.
    Bob Heltibridle
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  15. #60
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    Ashtabula, Oh
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    Does the first plate (finished) have some sort of matte finish?

    Bob,

    Is the first example a matte finish on the plate or is it just the camera giving it that appearance.

    Not sure what a "Chrome Charger Plate" is.

    I assume that is a standard type "rewards tray or plate" that can be purchased where...?

    I'm heading to Lowes tonight!
    Bugs

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