Galoot Smoother II

[Derek Cohen]

Some of you may recall that a few years ago I built a BU infill smoother out of a Stanley #3. With all the various smoothers at my disposal, including some rather special and expensive planes, I often find myself returning time and again to this little smoother. It is simply wonderful and utterly reliable ...

I managed to grab a couple of hours today for the workshop as Lynndy's rellies (Oz-speak for visiting family) decided to spend the day shopping (with Lynndy in tow).

I started work on the drawer for the armoire, and was smoothing down the front board ...



.. when I decided that it was time to make the modifications I had been thinking about for a couple of years.

I never liked the looks of the plane - too boxy.



And the 5/32” (about 4mm) thick blade, although 1 ¾” wide like the original #3, lacked the support of the #3's frog and so was a sloppy fit. And lastly, it was OK to hold, but not great.

I wanted a rounded profile, side set screws for the blade, and a more comfortable grip.

I finished it up just as I was called in for dinner. Tomorrow I will relate the screws in the lever cap (so don;t give me a hard time about those!).

This is what I came up with.











Thanks for sharing this with me.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mick David]

Thanks for sharing this with me.

No, Derek, thank YOU for sharing with us -- that smoother is gorgeous. I admire your skills and vision. Makes me want to invite the in-laws up just to clear out the house and let me get some good shop time in.

[Marco Cecala]

I am not the guy to comment on the looks of a plane. I make nice furniture, but have mdf shop cabinets and quickly made jigs.

This always goes through my mind when I do something with a tool or fixture. I usually spend enough time to make it practical, then stop. Your #3 is working well, now it will look even better.

Does the improved appearance elevate your work or enjoyment? Just trying to see if better shop made devices are something I should look at closer.

My one over the top shop tool came in the form of a Brese 650 smoother. Ron did such a nice job, I felt it needed some effort for the infill.

[Jeff Wittrock]

That is a really cool idea. I have made a few wooden body (laminated) planes but have never attempted something like an infill. Just looking at this is enough to inspire.

Could you tell me how much work is involved in preparing the interior of the #3 to accept the infill? I imagine without a mill, it might be too much for me to even attempt. Is it practical to leave the interior as is and shape the infill to fit it?

... for now I'll just enjoy looking at yours. Thanks for showing.

-Jeff

[James Taglienti]

Don't you love toolmaking?

[Derek Cohen]

Jeff

I just used a small 4" grinder and a Dremel to remove as much of the metalwork as possible.

The original article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad..._smoother.html

Hope that inspires to build!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Wittrock]

I just used a small 4" grinder and a Dremel to remove as much of the metalwork as possible.

The original article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad..._smoother.html
...
Derek

Thanks for the link Derek. This sure looks like a lot of fun. I don't know that my end result will approach the quality of yours, but I would sure like to have a go at it.

I have a question, and hope it isn't too silly. Would it be completely impractical to make a lever cap out of cocobolo or some other very hard wood? I'm not sure how much luck I would have "carving" brass and I know I would have problems with phosphor bronze (I've used that stuff at work before and it is indeed hard).

Jeff

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jeff

Rather than making a lever cap, then, why not make a wooden wedge? You could add a steel bar (rod) across the front (drill and pein), then add the wedge of your choice. The wedge could double as a hand hold.

What do you think?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Paulson]

Hi Derek,

I'm still hoping to make a wooden brace like you did awhile back. This smoother of yours is looking better and better. For any of us with a plane headed for the parts pile, it makes sense to be creative like you did here with the plane body casting.

Have you ever attempted making an infill using plate steel and dovetailing it together? I have some scrap steel that is waiting for me to give it a try. But, I'm afraid it will have to wait for a lull in the project list. It also seems intimidating as to how much time it might require.

Thanks for sharing your excellent work.

Best wishes,
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

I've put all the relevant bits and pieces in an article on my website. This includes updates and details of parts and construction.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...mootherII.html



Hi Jim

No to a dovetailed infill - but when I have time I do plan to make a couple.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Scheffler]

Hi Jeff

Rather than making a lever cap, then, why not make a wooden wedge? You could add a steel bar (rod) across the front (drill and pein), then add the wedge of your choice. The wedge could double as a hand hold.

What do you think?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm curious. I've never made or used one of these. It seems to me that the lever cap you constructed would put lot more force onto the blade than a wedge could (especially near the cutting edge), making the whole thing absolutely rock solid. A wedge might be adequate, but it seems to me that the lever cap would be worth the extra effort. Also, I've heard that a wedge may not necessarily hold at such a low bed angle. Any thoughts? I have a couple of derelict and incomplete metal planes that could be good donors for such a project.

Thanks!
Jim

[Jeff Wittrock]

Rather than making a lever cap, then, why not make a wooden wedge? You could add a steel bar (rod) across the front (drill and pein), then add the wedge of your choice. The wedge could double as a hand hold.
...
Derek

Thanks Derek. I think you are probably right. In thinking about it, If I used some type of hardwood, I would still have to add some kind of threaded insert for the lever cap screw. I would also have to have a through hole for the lever cap pivot. Probably a real kludge.

Having never had or used an infill, does the front beveled portion of the lever cap act at all like a chip breaker? I am guess it is far enough from the business end of the blade that it does not, but just curious.

Thanks,
Jeff

[Derek Cohen]

Jeff, this is a BU plane - it does not need a chipbreaker/cap iron!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Wittrock]

Jeff, this is a BU plane - it does not need a chipbreaker/cap iron!
Derek

Ah.. right, my ignorance is now in the open for all to see .

Thanks,
Jeff