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Thread: Flipping the material

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Orange County, CA
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    613
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    Bob,

    I have a simple plywood jig that I made to machine door signs on both sides. It isn't pretty but it is accurate and can be setup on the table in just a couple of minutes.

    I machined the edge profile of the door sign in plywood, cut two notches on the top of the jig that I can use a quick grip clamp to close a kerf cut I made at the top of the jig.

    I will take a picture tomorrow for you, the jig is on the ShopBot at CNU.
    .
    By the way, I'm particularly looking forward to seeing this because I'll soon be moving on to cutting birch plywood for guitar extension cabs and head shells/cabs, and need to do dado's on one side and roundovers on the other, so I have another material flipping project ahead of me. I need to make this process simpler!
    CAMaster CR-408 Cobra X3

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    Bob,

    Sorry but I got swamped today and didn't have the chance to take the pictures. I will take them tomorrow morning and post them during lunch.
    .

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    613
    No problem Keith, I understand.

    For these tap handles, I may end up doing two sides and joining them to make it easier, however, I want to conquer this double sided thing for when I start doing the speaker cabinets.
    CAMaster CR-408 Cobra X3

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    Bob,


    Here is the picture of the jig I use frequently for door signs. Note the cross I machined in the center of the blank, I use my laser pointer in the router collet to set the orgin center of the jig.

    The plywood is mounted to a piece of Corian with three screws, this way it can flex when I tighten the quick clamp. The bottom edge of the jig rests on a machined edge at X0. When I machine my spoilboard I leave the edge at X0 which gives me a kind of fence edge. The MDF sheet is 49" wide so I hang the extra inch over the plywood base.

    Before anyone asks how I remove the plaques after they are machined I use a vacuum clamp, the ones they use to lift and handle glass.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 01-12-2010 at 8:04 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    Bob,

    Here is a picure of a full sheet of Corian sign blanks being machined. I machine the keyholes and window openings on the back side of the sheet, then flip it over and cut a contour detail that follows the plaque edge. The last step is to cut the plaques out.

    I have to layout the rows of sign blanks on the drawing centered in the X direction so everything lines up perfectly when I flip the sheet over.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    I use my laser pointer in the router collet to set the orgin center of the jig.
    Yup, I want one of those! Was that a DIY kind of thing, Keith?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    14,778
    Bryan,

    The laser pointer was something that Steve Knight found on the Net and shared with us here at The Creek awhile back. Check out this link:
    http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html

    Its a real handy tool for a CNC router, drill press or milling machine.
    .

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    613
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    Bryan,

    The laser pointer was something that Steve Knight found on the Net and shared with us here at The Creek awhile back. Check out this link:
    http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html

    Its a real handy tool for a CNC router, drill press or milling machine.
    .
    I'm sold, and just bought one.
    CAMaster CR-408 Cobra X3

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