Yet another DW735 planer blade thread

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I had yet to get my planer sled working right. I made a 6' one using the FWW plans, and had problems with the 'wedge' support system. I made a smaller one, to at least proof the concept, and instead of wedges I used set-screws in the support pieces. Tried it tonight on a 2x6 piece of red oak, and it STILL was a disaster in the making.

hmmmm......

the last 'real' planing I did was some reclaimed boards from an old desk. took the finish off the old boards (poly or varnish or something). I flipped the blades to a new edge, re-ran the oak board, it it's smooth as silk.

Amazing what happens when tools are sharp

[Jason Hanko]

I tried using a planer sled for about a year and a half. At first it was just a 3/4 MDF board with a cleat on the end. I used double sided tape and shims - with predictable results...
The wedge system sleds looked neat, but I always had my doubts that it would actually function well. So I tried the several-Tnuts-with-nylon-set-screws method next, and I STILL couldnt get a board flat.
I finally had the best luck just using a hand plane to get one side of the board to the point where it wouldnt rock or compress under pressure too much - that worked WAY better than my attempts with sleds.
Of course now I bought myself a nice Grizz 8'' jointer for Christmas, so I dont have to bother with attempting to face joint with my 735 anymore.

In a psuedo-related story: I was running some white oak through my 735 yesterday, and all of a sudden I hear "whap, whap, whap, whap, BDDGGGGRRRRR, clink!" and I see something bounce out onto my infeed table. It sounded like a knot had fallen out of the board and pinked around the cutter head for a bit. But when I went to pick up the "knot".... "OUCH!" It was a really hot screw that looked like it had been to H#!! and back again!
As it turns out, one of the screws that holds the blade jib in place had worked its way loose and out! It took a pretty big chunk out of one of the blades on its way out. Im just glad it didnt go through the exhaust blower too.

[Jason Hanko]

Update: Looked up the price for a new screw from DeWalt to replace my chewed-up one: $0.65.
Not too bad...wait, $10.68 shipping??!?!!

[Chuck Isaacson]

I hear ya on the blade swap. I was running some red oak through as well and it was just LOUD as all get out and didn't want to feed it through. I finally decided to try and swap the blades to see if it would help and WOW!!!!!!!!!! Not only did it cut like buttah, but it was a lot quieter as well. I will have remind myself to do that right when I start to think about it instead of keep putting it off.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Update: Looked up the price for a new screw from DeWalt to replace my chewed-up one: $0.65.
Not too bad...wait, $10.68 shipping??!?!!

Getting things like that shipped is INSANE. I would try a local HW store or a local repair center. Good luck!

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I hear ya on the blade swap. I was running some red oak through as well and it was just LOUD as all get out and didn't want to feed it through. I finally decided to try and swap the blades to see if it would help and WOW!!!!!!!!!! Not only did it cut like buttah, but it was a lot quieter as well. I will have remind myself to do that right when I start to think about it instead of keep putting it off.

I guess it did get quieter. Sorta like how a 727 is quieter than a 747 at takeoff. Funny, my wife was commenting on the noise last night. She can't even hear my new TS when it's running - didn't even know I've had it fired up and was using it. Compared to my old Delta, which had a universal motor and needed hearing protection just to turn it on, the new one is fantastic. The planer is still the "screamer" though, so I'm going to try one mod mentioned here which is to remove the chip ejection fan. And if that doesn't work, I might splurge for a spiral cutterhead upgrade. I'd love a stationary one, so I might work that into my 2010 plans...

[glenn bradley]

I had yet to get my planer sled working right. I made a 6' one using the FWW plans, and had problems with the 'wedge' support system.

I made that sled and use the wedges without issue. Did you apply the stair tread material? Are you using the screws to hold them in position once leveled?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I made that sled and use the wedges without issue. Did you apply the stair tread material? Are you using the screws to hold them in position once leveled?

I did use the tread tape, and drywall screws to hold them in place. It was frustrating, because I know know others were using them, and the video on FWW made it look so easy. They always seemed to vibrate loose, and I had one screw come out and somehow get wedged under the sled, putting a pretty good gouge in the planer bed. The set screw system seems to work pretty well, so I'll stay with that. I put the tread tape down each side of the sled, so no matter where I put the supports, the set screws are resting on the tread tape. Solid as a rock.

[Lit Jones]

I made my own design - an 8' x 12.5" sled that has a face of 1/2" plywood, backed by 3 maple runners that have cross-ribs to add support. The cross ribs are not as thick as the runners, so the runners provide the bearing surface for the planer and extension rollers.

The design is extremely flat and stiff, but also very light. The key to success is that the bottom side has to be dead flat, so in my design, the 3 maple runners have to be dead straight and parallel.

I skinned the top with sandpaper stuck on with contact cement, and this creates a surface that keeps the workpiece from drifting and keeps the wedges in place.

As for wedges, I just use loose ones. The sandpaper keeps them from moving.

Technique is key to proper use. Mine is different from FWW. The FWW article/video involved pushing the sled all the way through, lifting it, taking it back to the feed side, and resetting it.

But since the 735 has no depth lock, my technique is:
- send the sled/board through the planer.
- raise planer 3 full turns.
- push sled back through planer (while still running).
- snug up any wedges that loosened (boards that are planed tend to release some).
- Lower planer 3 1/2 full turns.
- repeat.

Once the sled is set up, I find I can surface joint boards as easily on the planer as on the jointer. I built this sled before I bought a jointer, so I was able to limit my jointer purchase to a 6". I do use the jointer to surface joint anything less than 6" wide, because narrower boards are lighter and tend to move too easily when using the sled.

Good luck.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

But since the 735 has no depth lock, my technique is:
- send the sled/board through the planer.
- raise planer 3 full turns.
- push sled back through planer (while still running).
- snug up any wedges that loosened (boards that are planed tend to release some).
- Lower planer 3 1/2 full turns.
- repeat.

Lit - I use the same approach, although I'm a 4-full-turn type of guy

I have a question...how do you store the sled to keep it from "bending" or distorting over time? Do you hang it from a wall, lay it flat on a long shelf, etc?

[Derek Gilmer]

Have you tried calling to see if they will mail it for free? My 735 chipped a blade on 20 bf of pine.... I called dewalt and talked to a very nice lady who mailed a new set of blades free of charge, great service.

[Lit Jones]

I store mine horizontally on support brackets, and do not store anything on top of it. It appears to be straight still, after 4 years. I will someday build a 4 foot version since I find that would suffice for most applications.

[Julian Nicks]

Instead of running the board through the planer on a sled I just shim the board on a flat sled with side rails on it. Then I have a dedicated router that has a 12" plywood plate as a base that I use to rout two 3/4" wide channels down each side. I made up two 5/8" square runners that I use to lay in the routed channels, then flip it over and run it through the thickness planer. The bonus to doing it this way is that I know the sled is perfectly flat since I do this all on my workbench. Running a sled through the planer still has room for error.