I decided to apply the wood hinge to a slightly different application. Below are several pics of the small cabinet, about 10 inches tall, 8 inches wide, 4 1/2 deep. The back is walnut with some natural leather glued on. One interior shelf set in dadoes cut with the small router plane. This piece of birdseye really kicked my hind end, it was very hard and wanted to move a lot. It was kiln dried and sat in my shop for several weeks. It started at about 1 1/8, and one half cupped a lot when I resawed it. Managed to get it flat at just under 1/2 inch. I began to cut the dovetails and noticed that the left side was cupped a little, but thought the assembly would bring it up nicely and it did. However, I was used to using some softer maple on the previous boxes and these joints were pretty tight, several small cracks, but nothing catastrophic. One door cupped, so I had to reflatten both. Let it sit for several more days, guess what, cupped again, but less. Reflattened both doors again, now just over 1/4 left. By the time I began to apply the doors, the left side had bowed some, but again clamping the dowel and top in place moved it straight just enough. However, the right door (same culprit) twisted this time after glue up. Was able to to apply door stop to shelf, then plane and sand flush to exterior of case, but right door is thicker on top than bottom by about 1/16. Given the issues with the accuracy of the sides and doors, the hinges are not quite as clean as several previous versions, but still nice. I also made the doors too wide by a 1/16 or so, to leave room for planing down to the perfect fit, but the gap you see is a result of shinkage after glue up. I do not have a good explanation, except that it has happened to some degree on all of the boxed I have made. It has been about a week since assembly and the movement of the doors seems to have slowed, fingers crossed.
One coat of BLO so far. Plan several coats of wipe on poly, then off to the charity auction.
Thanks for looking,
Gary
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