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Thread: Kitchen Table - Project Complete (Pics)

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Clinton, British Columbia
    Posts
    313
    Words often seen inadequate to express my admiration for some of the work that you guys produce. Doc, all I can say is:
    wow

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Clermont County, OH
    Posts
    1,272

    Thumbs up

    Hey Don

    Looking good my man....I like that a lot. Some really nice lumber, to!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,559

    Thumbs up I'd give it 2 thumbs up but I haven't figure out how to do it?

    Doc......I love that curly maple....showed that piece to the LOML....she drooled on the keyboard! Fantastic work!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  4. #19
    Hey that's one fine looking table Don. A Big THUMBS UP here for you.
    Steve


  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tidewater, VA
    Posts
    2,124

    Nice!

    Doc -

    Very nice work. We will be over tonight to give it a try!

    Ted

  6. Nice work!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Kincardine, Ontario
    Posts
    488
    Fantastic Don!

    It really works beautifully. Did you resaw the maple yourself? Once laminated to the birch, how did you smooth it? Hand planes? Belt sander? Scrapers?

    Thanks for showing

    Hans

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Summerville, SC
    Posts
    89
    VERY nice table, love the way the top came out!
    Nice Job.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northern New Jersey
    Posts
    1,958
    Moe! Larry! It's Curly maple! And curly it is.

    Looks great!

    -Jeff

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
    Posts
    1,218
    Wow guys, thanks. Nice to see the table still getting compliments (as it still does in our house).

    The table has held up very well to my three kids and the miter joints that I was worried about are still as tight as the day I finished it. As well as the joint between the maple/BB and the walnut.

    I did resaw the maple myself just slightly over a 1/4" on my bandsaw with a 3/4" timberwolf blade. I then ran the pieces through my planer taking about 1/64 off - this caused a lot of chipping. Once I laminated the maple to the BB ply, I smooth the "up" face with a card scraper. It was a steep learning curve learning to put a burr on the scraper as well as using it. But nothing else would get the face smooth without chipping. The top came out glass smooth.

    Thanks again for the compliments.

    Be well,

    Doc

  11. #26
    Well done!
    Eric in Denver

    There are only 3 kinds of people in this world -- those who can count, and those who can't.

    "Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes." --Author unknown

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    KC, MO
    Posts
    2,041
    Don -

    The table is truly spectacular - sorry I missed it way back!!

    Do you know if the quarter inch veneer is about as "thick" as you can go and keep from getting any "creep" to expose the joint lines? Do you have any tips on this?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
    Posts
    1,218
    Roy, before I built this I asked A LOT of questions about veneering as this was my first project. I even built a complete vacuum press just for this project (all parts, including glue from joewoodworker).

    The veneer is 1/8" not 1/4" - I resawed the maple to 1/4" then planed to 1/8". Here's the specifics.

    I experimented with some regular maple and was able to resaw pieces as thin as 1/16". When I ran a small test piece with the curly maple, it tore out big time at 1/16". So I went up to 1/8" and still had problems with tear out. So up to 1/4" without any chips or tears while resawing.

    I then ran it through my planer (with new knives and a 1" auxillary table that lets me plane as thin as I want). Even with VERY light passes and those new blades it was still a little rough. I pressed on and planed it down to 1/8" using 1/64" passes.

    I then used blue painters tape to pull the joints together tight. I then flipped it over and opened the joints and applied unibond 800 veneer glue to the joints and flipped it over flat. I then quickly applied the veneer glue to the baltic birch substrate, put the veneer panel "sheet" on top and put it all in the vacuum bag and pressed it (I think for 6 hours). I squared the sheet up the next day. After I completed assembly I smoothed the entire surface with a card scraper and it came out as smooth as glass.

    The general opinion was 1/8" was too thick and I was going to have problems. The most common thought was going to be creep as this is some serious cross-grain gluing and thick veneers. I think the unibond 800 glue, which is a urea resin glue, helped a lot as it creates a very rigid bond. Also, all surfaces of the project are completly sealed with poly, helping to minimie moisture content changes. There was also a lot of concern about the mitered corners on the walnut as well (I used poly glue for them).

    As I said though, the joints on the table are absolutely tight with no visible movement what so ever. And to qualify this, the table was used in our breakfast nook in Virginia where it was abused daily by my 2 kids. It saw a lot of fluctuations in temp and humidity down there. I am now in Boston where I have converted it to an over-sized coffee table (replaced the wrought-iron base). So it sits in front of the fireplace (about 6 feet away) and gets abused by my 3 kids now (a 2 year old that loves to bang and jump on it). Still no problems. I have some of the same curly maple left over and plan on making some more table tops with it (same maple/walnut design). I will use the same construction method as this one has proven itself stable.

    Be well,

    Doc

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