Should I ditch my 12" SCMS for a 10" CMS?

[Michael Donahue]

OK, I know that sounds backwards because most people end up upgrading to bigger saws with more capacity!

I've got a Ridgid 12" SCMS that works well enough, but it doesn't cut as accurately as I'd like. I can't get perfect miters say for a picture frame (can get pretty good ones though) and when I cut vertically (on baseboard for example) there's clearly some deflection in the cut as it's not perfectly straight. In the saw's defense, I've only used the stock blade and a Freud Diablo 96 tooth blade. I've been hesitant to spend serious money on a blade in case I'm expecting too much out of the saw.

I was wondering if I'd have better luck with a smaller saw and a full kerf blade. I want to be able to cut tight miters without too much worry and I'd love to free up some bench space (that 12" slider is a beast!). I thought a regular CMS might be more accurate without having to worry about the play in the sliding mechanism. It's not too bad with my saw, but it's there. I'd be using this saw to finish the trim in my house, but I also want to use it on furniture/cabinets/picture frames/ etc.

So I could use some advice! I figure I have 2 options and all advice is welcome!

1. Sell the 12" SCMS and get a 10" CMS with a good full kerf blade.
2. Get a good 12" blade for the SCMS and see if that helps.

Thanks folks!

[Larry Nall]

I never got consistent picture frame quality miters on a CMS. Try a miter sled on a table saw instead.

[Paul Ryan]

Michael,

If you lock the ridgid saw in place and not use the sliding feature and it still wont cut perfet miters then you have a problem. That ridgid saw should cut just as well locked in place as a fixed saw would. If not you have a blade run out problem, or something else. I have a 10" makita slider and it cuts perfect miters. I find that woodmovent can cause problems too. My wood tends to get sucked toward the blade if not held down real tight. A good sharp blade can help that as well.

[Glen Butler]

I have the same miter saw, three of them in-fact and found it to be very accurate. It does take some practice to not pull side to side as you are pulling in and out. It is also important to get the cut right the first time cause the blade will deflect if you are shaving less than the thickness of the blade. A thicker saw blade plate would help this but probably not eliminate it. Make sure the tube bearing glides have proper pressure. I have found they ship a little loose.

[Rick Fisher]

Do you guys ever cut miters without moving the saw .. Turn it to 45 degrees.. cut .. move the wood around and flip it backwards ..and cut again... Never touching the saw ?

I find that this works well.

If the 45 degrees is actually 44.5 .. the next cut is automatically 45.5 .. so its 90..

I guess this works so long as the fence is 90 to the blade ?

Anyway.. I do miters this way.. and it only works with my Hitachi C10FS if I do it this way..


Same principle if cross cutting a miter with the saw head tilted over at 45 degrees.. Move the wood, not the saw..

[scott spencer]

I never got consistent picture frame quality miters on a CMS. Try a miter sled on a table saw instead.

+1...use a TS if you have one.

[Andrew Minear]

Which are the good 12" SCMS blades?

Andrew

[lowell holmes]

I use a shooting board and a bu jack plane to tune my miters. You can do it in less time than it takes to talk about it.

A sled on the table saw and for that matter, my Incra miter gage does a pretty good job.

Also, my old Rockwell power miter saw does an excellent job.