Can Anybody Help w/ Rewiring Jointer Motor?

[Tom LaRussa]

Tom,

Let's wait for you to post the pics before you start taking stuff apart and nuts, washers and stuff begin falling into irretrievable areas!! Get me a pic of the plug and I can at least tell you pretty quickly (I have a big chart here at work of ALL the plug/receptacle styles in the US and Canada) what the plug is meant for...but this doesn't mean the plug was used correctly unfortunately. I'll need a straight-on (2D) shot and a shot at an angle.

Okay, here are the plug pics.

How's it look?

[Tom LaRussa]

Tom -

Concur with Chris on this one. With a picture or two, maybe amongst all the talent here we can jointly assemble a "clue". Then you can make a firm decision on 120V or not.

Regards,
Ted

Okay, here are some motor pics:

[Tom LaRussa]

Okay, here are some motor pics:

And a few more motor pics.

[Tom LaRussa]

Try it on 115v, if it runs at speed and sounds OK then it is wired for 115v. If it is wired for 230v, it probably won't come up to speed or sound right. If it is wired 230v, you will not hurt it if you run it for a FEW seconds with NO load. This test is not safe the other way around. 230v input will smoke a 115v motor.If there is an amp draw on name plate, measure amps after starting with a clamp-on meter. A 230 volt motor will not pull proper amps on 115v.

Bill in WNC mountains

Bill,

I'll give it a try, but if I electrocute myself I'm going to haunt you.

[Chris Padilla]

Okay, here are the plug pics.

How's it look?

Tom,

This plug can be used for either 120 or 240 V--it will universally fit into a 120 V twist-lock receptacle and a 240 V twist-lock receptacle, I think. The thing that makes it universal is the fact that the ground wire blade is not bent into a rough L-shape (or backwards L if you like)...it is straight as far as I can tell from your pictures. Is this correct?

[Chris Padilla]

Bill,

I'll give it a try, but if I electrocute myself I'm going to haunt you.

Be sure to tie/bolt down the motor before cranking it up and put the current clamp around only 1 of the wires except the green wire. Do a continuity check for each wire to the motor frame to find the true green wire...it should read 0 ohms while the other to should read infinite impedance or a very large impedance.