SawStop finally runs

[Cliff Holmes]

Were there issues that caused the nine days? Or was it just that pesky part of our other life that delayed you from more important things?

A little of both. The only major issue was getting the top aligned to the blade. It arrived .008 out and it took me the better part of a day to get it dialed in. Whether it's on the stop has a big effect on the alignment, I finally had to back the stop off to -2* and just not use it. Also, it matters from which direction you're approaching your setting. I also had to be super careful tightening the bolts down or it would throw the table way off. I could probably do it in just 5-10 minutes now, but it was a major ordeal in frustration.

[Dan Friedrichs]

... I finally had to back the stop off to -2* and just not use it. Also, it matters from which direction you're approaching your setting. I also had to be super careful tightening the bolts down or it would throw the table way off. I could probably do it in just 5-10 minutes now, but it was a major ordeal in frustration.

Cliff, Which "stop" are you refering to?

[Cliff Holmes]

Which "stop" are you refering to?

The zero-degree stop. According to SS, the pressure will twist the trunion slightly, so they recommend backing off slightly anyway. Rather than having to remember and guess whether I've backed off enough, I chose to push the stop back to the point it was obviously off. I adjusted the angle indicator so it lines up on the left edge of the 0* line, which is close enough most of the time. If I'm being really precise, I can take 10 seconds and use a square to get it perfect.

[Dan Friedrichs]

The zero-degree stop. According to SS, the pressure will twist the trunion slightly, so they recommend backing off slightly anyway. Rather than having to remember and guess whether I've backed off enough, I chose to push the stop back to the point it was obviously off. I adjusted the angle indicator so it lines up on the left edge of the 0* line, which is close enough most of the time. If I'm being really precise, I can take 10 seconds and use a square to get it perfect.

That's almost disappointing. I have a Delta contractor saw that I noticed was doing the same thing (going out of alignment significantly whenever I touched the 0* or 45* stop). I did the same thing - back the stops out and not use them. I assumed a high-quality cabinet saw wouldn't do that....

[Paul Ryan]

It is a matter of feel. I have had that same problem with every saw I have ever owned. If you turn the wheel until it is firmly at the stop they end up kind of off. You get used to how tight it needed to be and where 0 is. We are talking about .05 degrees very very little. The 1st few times I beveled my blade I checked it with a square once back at zero, now I know eactly where to stop by how tight it feels. It may sound complicated but I have never had a saw that would just stop dead at 0 all of the stops are kind of squishy. The most dead set method it to double check with a square once the blade is tilted back.

[Cliff Holmes]

We are talking about .05 degrees very very little.

I'm not concerned about the angle so much as the blade alignment. Coming up against the stop was throwing the blade as much as .005 towards the fence.

[Chris Friesen]

It is a matter of feel. I have had that same problem with every saw I have ever owned. If you turn the wheel until it is firmly at the stop they end up kind of off....It may sound complicated but I have never had a saw that would just stop dead at 0 all of the stops are kind of squishy.

On my cabinet saw the vertical stop is a dead stop at 0. No squish at all, and no twisting. The stop is a bolt with a lock nut that threads into the cast iron trunnion pretty much directly in line with the tilt gears.