Router Table Fence Material

[Don Abele]

I'm hoping to finish up my router table this weekend. I have the top and fence to finish. The fence on my previous router table was made from 1 inch thick HDPE. I never had any problems with it that I noticed. In all the research I did though, no one uses HDPE for their router fences. Though it's what's found on most tablesaw fences. Any idea why? Or better yet, any idea why I shouldn't use it again? I bought a 4'x4' sheet of 1 inch and 1/2 thick HDPE several years ago (real cheap) and use it for slides and fences. So I have plenty of it left.

The rest of the fence will be made of 1 inch baltic birch (2 pieces of 1/2 inch laminated together).

As an alternative to the HDPE, I was thinking of using the 1 inch BB laminated with formica on both sides. This is how I'll construct the top.

Be well,

Doc

[Jim Becker]

As long as you can make the plastic flat and straight, I see no reason not to use it. But frankly, my router table fence split faces are made of MDF which is inexpensive to make and replace, especially if you want to do any "true" zero clearance work with your router bits.

[Steve Clardy]

I usually just use whatever piece of scrap of whatever that's laying around. I have used MDF, melamine, pine, poplar, oak. I seem to wear one out fairly often, having five table mounted routers with fences. If you're happy with the HDPE, go for it.
Steve

[George M. Perzel]

Hi Don;
HDPE is great for a fence- I'm using a piece I had for the motorized router lift which I posted previously. Most people don't use it in homemade fences because its not readily available in the local hardware store. Please post a pic-like to see your design. Good Luck
George

[Ken Salisbury]

Consider laminating 2 pieces of 1/2" Corian.

[Jamie Buxton]

I can't figure out why people use HPDE. It isn't very stiff, you can't glue to it, and it is expensive. In contrast, wood (or plywood) is more stiff, you can use glue to build up more-complex assemblies, and it is nice and affordable.

On top of that, I'm a wood guy, and I find wood in any form to be much nicer to work with than plastic.

Oh, I guess HPDE slides well. However, wood slides well too. Wood fences and wood planes are good examples.

[Donnie Raines]

I used mdf applied some laminate to the split face.

[Scott Parks]

Consider laminating 2 pieces of 1/2" Corian.

Ken,

Do you know where can I buy Corian?

I've checked the local stores (for a small project around my bath), and they all told me that it is a product I can't buy. Must be bought through an installer. I only need a couple strips 5' x 6". No one will help me, but they can get an installer to put it in.... Not going to spend $100s for such a small project....

[Don Abele]

Jamie, I use HDPE because it's absolutely flat, uniform in thickness, stable, machines easily, VERY slick, and cost me about $50 for a 4x4 sheet 1 inch thick. Yes, it is flexible, but when backed up (with the rest of the fence), it's absolutely rigid. These properties are why most tablesaw manufacturers put the HDPE inserts on them.

Ken, corian would be nice. But, like Scott, I don't know where I can get pieces that small. I could buy a counter top and cut it up, but that's expensive and wasteful.

I hate to say it, but I absolutely hate to use MDF now. I've worked with it quite a bit (including the new "light" MDF), and maybe it's me doing it all wrong, but I just haven't had a lot of success. Yes, it machines well, but isn't strong, doesn't hold fasteners well, and with humidity changes can swell. The swelling is what really turned me off. When I moved from Maine to Washington, EVERY MDF table/jig I had was ruined within 6 months from swelling, even some that I had painted/edge-banded.

Jim, the fence I am building will be a split design (as my last one was) and will have 2 "layers" to it - an upper and lower, so I can adjust the size of the opening (similar to the one that was just shown in the last issue of Wood). I was thinking of making some ZCI's that could clip in for the larger profile bits - something I could also make from HDPE (I have a lot of this stuff ).

Anyway, thanks all of the input. I'll be sure and post pics of it when completed.

Be well,

Doc

[Ken Dolph]

We have been selling Corian in small pieces for 11 years now. It is our only business and we are the DuPont distributor for this. We havde much free information on working with Corian in the home workshop. With its ease of use, durability and no need of finish, Corianis often cheaper than wood.

Just visit us at http://stonewood.safeshopper.com or call me at 1-800-724-4008. A single 3/4" piece should do the job for the fence.

I hope this helps
Ken

[Scott Parks]

We have been selling Corian in small pieces for 11 years now. It is our only business and we are the DuPont distributor for this. We havde much free information on working with Corian in the home workshop. With its ease of use, durability and no need of finish, Corianis often cheaper than wood.

Just visit us at http://stonewood.safeshopper.com or call me at 1-800-724-4008. A single 3/4" piece should do the job for the fence.

I hope this helps
Ken

Ouch! That stuff's expensive for what I want it for! That would make my tub surround about $300! Think I'll buy marble or granite tile @$5/ft.... Thanks tho....

[Ken Salisbury]

Ken,

Do you know where can I buy Corian?

I've checked the local stores (for a small project around my bath), and they all told me that it is a product I can't buy. Must be bought through an installer. I only need a couple strips 5' x 6". No one will help me, but they can get an installer to put it in.... Not going to spend $100s for such a small project....

Scott,

Small pieces of Corian are very easy to come by. Find a local installer of solid counter tops in your area. Most of them have lots of scrap. You could probably talk them out of giving you enough to do your job. If not I am sure they would sell some pieces to you. If you were in my area I would be more than willing to give you what you need since I am inundated with the stuff

[Michael Stafford]

My fence is 3/4" BB ply with laminate on both sides. It is slick and durable and since I write on it with pencil frequently easy to erase. That said I would have no qualms about using the HDPE stiffened from behind, although it is harder to write on... I have seen some fine work done on a piece of plywood with a router screwed to it using a notched straight board for a fence and a couple of clamps to hold it in place...

[Scott Parks]

Scott,

Small pieces of Corian are very easy to come by. Find a local installer of solid counter tops in your area. Most of them have lots of scrap. You could probably talk them out of giving you enough to do your job. If not I am sure they would sell some pieces to you. If you were in my area I would be more than willing to give you what you need since I am inundated with the stuff

Ken,
Thanks for the tip! I'm sure 6" wide scraps are useless to installers.... Now if I can find an installler that will give it away...

[JayStPeter]

Since you already have the HDPE, I say go for it. I made UHMW faces for my old incra fence and really liked it. Looking forward to the pics.

Jay