Ok, I've used HUT Crystal Coat and I've used the HUT wax sticks for finishing pens.
The question is: can you top coat the Crystal Coat with the wax sticks and if so, any input on whether this will "extend" the life of the pen's finish?
Dave
Ok, I've used HUT Crystal Coat and I've used the HUT wax sticks for finishing pens.
The question is: can you top coat the Crystal Coat with the wax sticks and if so, any input on whether this will "extend" the life of the pen's finish?
Dave
David, not sure I can answer your question per the specifics you give. I like the Hut finishes, but they do not seem to hold their sheen for a long time. I have found two things, which will help to hold the sheen. 1) Use the thin CA glue to polish with. You need to be a bit careful with that, but it does work better than just Hut alone. 2) This is one which I have proven out for myself: I often use a 50/50 mix of poly/naphtha for my flatwork finish. While cruising through the Penn State catalog some time ago, I saw they have a finish, which you dip your completed barrels in, prior to assembly. I figured that maybe the 50/50 should work as well. I tried it. It does! I did a pen in Padauk a couple years ago, which is what I experimented on. This is my *daily* user. I'm on my third ink cartridge with it and it still retains a nice sheen!
To do it, I simply put the barrels on separate wire hangers, dipped them, then let them thoroughly dry. Prior to assembly, I chased the insides of the barrels with my pen mill and I was good to go. YMMV, but it sure worked nice for me!
Cheers,
John K. Miliunas
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Hi Dave,
Yes! to my surprize, this is exactly what I have been doing. I Put the dark(satin) wax on 1st,followed by the White(gloss) wax;then I apply the Crystal Coat & polish it in. It really works & lasts,also. I do not use the dark wax on light colored woods.
Try it, you will like it. Make sure that each coat is completely dry,before applying the next one & use different cloths for each.
Have fun,
John
NOTHING beats a failure,but a try.
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Have a Blessed Day,
JMC
Not to take away from this forum, but you might want to look at www.penturners.org
We have a whole forum just for finishing. There are quite a few tricks there for creating long lasting finishes.
For the majority of pens I make I apply Crystal Coat followed by Hut's white wax stick. The trick to a good finish using these 2 products is heat. I apply both and using paper towels squeezing hard enough to generate heat (the more the better) resulting in better penetration of the product into the wood.Originally Posted by David Hayes
For a more glossy look (which I don't prefer by the way) there are various methods of applying CA glue that work well. Most of which are very time consuming -- and time is $.
"If you believe in yourself and have dedication and pride - and never quit, you'll be a winner. The price of victory is high - but so are the rewards" - - Coach Paul "Bear" BryantKen Salisbury Passed away on May 1st, 2008 and will forever be in our hearts.
After you have applied your finish, put a coat of Renaissance Wax on the finished piece (Pen, Stopper, bowl or whatever), let it stand for 15-20 seconds and then wipe it off. It will not show finger prints and will not loose its shine. I use it over the top of Mylands friction polish.
http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Renaissance_%20Wax.htm
It's Pricey but good.
Dick
No Pain-No Gain- Not!
No Pain-Good
David,
I like EEE Ultra Shine and a coat of Carnuba wax as a final finish on my pens and other small turnings. Realistically, though, if your turnings will only be "looked" at, any mentioned finish will work just fine. Conversely, if your turning will be used extensively, NO finish will hold up.
Don't panic! That is a GOOD thing!
The warm patina generated by the skin oils of the human hand is far more interesting and comforting than some "plastic" coating invented as a substitute. DUH!! What's wrong with my logic - besides the source?
Dale T.
I am so busy REMAKING my projects that I don't have time to make them the FIRST time!