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Thread: Kreg Klamp Table

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Monroe, MI
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    Kreg Klamp Table

    I took the day off today, other than calling in for a noon-time conference call, and got a good start on my Kreg Klamp table. Originally I planned to just make a top I could set on my bench or work table, but then I saw Joseph Shields's Mike Heidrick's versions. I just set it on my ladder for now to try the angle and I like this way. I'm thinking of welding up a steel tube stand to hold it like this--something like the stand the Kreg face framing table uses. If I do, I'll make it fold completely vertical for easier storage. And put wheels on it. The space on the side is for a future track, should I decide I want one.

    I just cut up some stock and tried one faceframe on it and they are the flatest, easiest to clamp joints I've ever done. Got to try out the new Foreman too.
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    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 01-29-2010 at 3:58 PM.


  2. #2
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    Jul 2008
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    Middle Tennessee
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    So basically you have a 3/4 plywood base, then a 3/4" melamine top for the table? Looks very nice. Appears to be very solid and I imagine quite heavy. Nice job.

  3. #3
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    Yes, exactly. And yes--VERY heavy. Partly because its pretty big about 36x52.


  4. #4
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    Nov 2007
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    olmsted falls,ohio
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    nice set up matt.am i being to bold to ask how much you have in it.great size and sturdy.

  5. #5
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    Not cheap. The main kit was $149 which was 2 clamps, 2 rails, the black spacers, and some hardware. Another ~$30-35 each for 2 more clamps. $22 for 1/2 an additional rail which I split with a friend. Plus $50 in sheet goods.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Canton, MI
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    Wow Matt, that turned out really nice. Dave and I are thinking about making one of those out of 8020. What's the purpose of the plastic spacers as opposed to clamping the stock directly to the extrusion? Did it come with dimensions for the extrusions so I can see if 8020 makes a profile that accepts the Kreg clamps.

  7. #7
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    May 2009
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    Knoxville iowa
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    the black plastic spacers center the clamp over the joint. They are adjustable to the width of your wood

  8. #8
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    Yes, the clamps are 3" I believe and the spacers move the stock out from the rails by various amounts so they are centered on the clamp. And they've got a piece that drops into the rail to keep them square.

    The extrusions are 2-1/4 wide by a little less than 3/4" thick, so I don't think 8020 will have something exact. You could probably use 8020 extrusions with the Kreg clamps and make your own spacer blocks. I'm just not sure its worth it because Kreg thought this out pretty well.


  9. #9
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    Oct 2006
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    Sure looks good Matt.

    I have found having the track flush with the top and using the blocks is flexable as it allows your work piece to extend over the edge of the table. This is for times when the face frame parts are not at the edges of the face frame.

    Any issues using the hi-flow adapter on the DB55? I forgot to talk to you about that. I had to put hi-flow adapters all through all the way to the Foreman.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  10. #10
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    Mar 2003
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    Now that my planer is done I started building the stand. Inspired by how Mike has his mounted, but mine will be mobile and the board will fold vertical for easy storage. I got the uprights welded up tonight and fabricated mounts for the full-lock casters I bought.

    I've got the basic idea in my head but I'm working out the details as I go.

    While I was at the local Do-It-Best buying a can of paint for the planer I noticed they have a blue that's almost a dead match for Kreg blue so its going to basically look like Kreg provided it.
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    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 02-24-2010 at 10:14 PM.


  11. #11
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    Feb 2008
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    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post
    I took the day off today, other than calling in for a noon-time conference call, and got a good start on my Kreg Klamp table. Originally I planned to just make a top I could set on my bench or work table, but then I saw Joseph Shields's Mike Heidrick's versions. I just set it on my ladder for now to try the angle and I like this way. I'm thinking of welding up a steel tube stand to hold it like this--something like the stand the Kreg face framing table uses. If I do, I'll make it fold completely vertical for easier storage. And put wheels on it. The space on the side is for a future track, should I decide I want one.

    I just cut up some stock and tried one faceframe on it and they are the flatest, easiest to clamp joints I've ever done. Got to try out the new Foreman too.

    Very nice. I am going to build one of those one day. And I thought I was the only one with a Little Giant Ladder...

    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
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    11,896
    The ladder works well for me. Enough to get on the roof of the house or shop if I needed to. Reaches the 12' ceiling in the shop and 10' ceiling in the garage. But also works in the house if needed.


  13. #13
    Looking forward to the next update Matt. Thank you for posting the progress of your Kreg Table.

    Which Kreg Foreman do you have?

    Bill

  14. #14
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    Mar 2003
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    Well, in that case...this morning's progress. I was supposed to go up to Ann Arbor until early afternoon but we ended up with several inches of snow with a lot of wind yesterday making the back roads around me treacherous so I called that off. Probably would have been OK once I made it to the freeway, but that's 9 miles.

    The Foreman is the manual air-powered model.

    I got the cross piece welded in and started on the pivot. The pivots are just a couple 7/16 bolts with locknuts that I had laying around. I realized I had to round over the top corners which was easy with the plasma and a small template. A quick touchup with a grinder and a flap wheel makes it finger-safe. I need to cut and weld a couple pieces of angle between the pivoting arms to help keep the table from sagging/warping. Then I just need to figure out some arms at the bottom to lock it in the working position before I can paint it.
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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Upstate NY
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    154
    Matt, thanks for the inspiration. I have been eyeing the Kreg table for a little while, but didn't want to spend the money. Now I see that there is a better way. Yours looks like it's coming along great, Kreg seems to indicate that their top is "solid melamine", does that make sense, or am I reading it wrong? Anyway, keep up the great work and the progress reports.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep, to gain what he cannot lose

    Jack

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