Kreg Klamp Table

[Matt Meiser]

I think its going slow. I'd planned to completely finish it paint and all by tonight but for the past several weeks I keep finding reasons not to go out to the shop. The heat is on out there though (literally, the furnace) so it doesn't get too cold to paint so I need to wrap it up in the next evening or two.

[Matt Meiser]

Almost there.

When I build something like this, my typical finish is hardware-store-brand spray paint (usually my local Do-It-Best.) They happen to have this blue which is very, very close to the blue on my Foreman. I've been using a self-etching primer from Duplicolor lately that O'Reily Auto Parts carries. Both dry really fast. I literally finished this start-finish in 4 hours.

Check out the floor in my finish booth! Should have ran the fan more but it really messes with the spray pattern from a rattle can.

[Anthony Anderson]

Matt, You do nice work. Very professional. I also use that Duplicolor Self Etching Primer, and have had very good results. Sherwin Williams also makes an automotive self etching primer in a spray can, and also works well.

When is final assembly? Again, Thank you for sharing this project. I am already looking at the track and clamps. I'm trying to decide, if it would be better to buy a track kit, if it is available. I think you mentioned that kit is only available at the WWing shows. I don't need the table, as I am thinking to incorporate this into my tablesaw outfeed table. So maybe, buying the tracks and clamps will be the way to go. What do you think?

Thanks, Bill

[Matt Meiser]

Sherwin Williams owns Duplicolor, so its probably the same stuff. I should check if the Sherwin Williams auto paint store near me sells it for less than O'Reily.

I'll probably assemble it tomorrow if I get time.

I couldn't find anyone selling the kit with a Google search so I'd just buy the components.

[Mike Heidrick]

Anyone find a deal on some Kreg track let us know. I could use about 4 more pieces. It used to be $29 and now is $40 and above most places. I should have stocked up.

[Matt Meiser]

Hartville has 15% off all regular price items right now. Still >$37 though.

[Anthony Anderson]

I was looking yesterday, and it was $45 locally. There should be some spring season specials anytime. Hopefully.

[Eric DeSilva]

Matt-

I was intrigued by your project. The only issue I see is you can only clamp get 3 of the 4 corners, but that is pretty good. I clicked on the link you had for the big Kreg table and the arrangement they have--with the sliding bar and pneumatic hold downs--seems pretty slick, but mondo spendy. But that--and your metalwork--started me thinking...

What about making a rectangular frame from 1"--fairly thick wall--square steel stock. Weld a easel-like stand to the sides only. Weld some tabs to the sides so you can attach a piece of ply to fill in the center--maybe even run some angle across the bottom for support underneath. Then do what they do with the Kreg table--build a bar that hooks to the underside of the top/bottom rail, slides back and forth, and has clamps to secure the frame corners. You could even make multiples of the rail if you have a complicated face frame. While the Kreg pneumatic clamps are nice, I'm not sure a threaded rod with a non-marring tip wouldn't do the trick nicely (and much more economically).

If you build it out of 1" square stock, it should be cheap, strong, and flexible. I need another project like a need a hole in my head, but I may have to put this on the list. As a welder and user of the Kreg table, see any issues?

BTW, if you do a lot with tube stock, I highly recommend the Evolution Rage cold cut carbide saws (Sears sells 'em). I've got a 7.5" chopsaw that was less than $100 (I think--it is big enough for most angle/tube stock that I deal with) and it works like a dream--faster, cleaner and without heat build-up.

[Matt Meiser]

Yeah, with this type of table you have to rotate the work to to get the other corner. The only concern I'd have with building a bridge type system like they have is that it has to have absolutely no flex once the clamps are tight. If it does the joint won't come out flush.

I've got one of the 4x6 bandsaws I use to cut all my stock.

I went out before work this morning and finished assembly. Just ran out to get some photos of the finished product.

[Lewis Cobb]

Matt-

I was intrigued by your project. The only issue I see is you can only clamp get 3 of the 4 corners, but that is pretty good. I clicked on the link you had for the big Kreg table and the arrangement they have--with the sliding bar and pneumatic hold downs--seems pretty slick, but mondo spendy. But that--and your metalwork--started me thinking...

What about making a rectangular frame from 1"--fairly thick wall--square steel stock. Weld a easel-like stand to the sides only. Weld some tabs to the sides so you can attach a piece of ply to fill in the center--maybe even run some angle across the bottom for support underneath. Then do what they do with the Kreg table--build a bar that hooks to the underside of the top/bottom rail, slides back and forth, and has clamps to secure the frame corners. You could even make multiples of the rail if you have a complicated face frame. While the Kreg pneumatic clamps are nice, I'm not sure a threaded rod with a non-marring tip wouldn't do the trick nicely (and much more economically).

If you build it out of 1" square stock, it should be cheap, strong, and flexible. I need another project like a need a hole in my head, but I may have to put this on the list. As a welder and user of the Kreg table, see any issues?

BTW, if you do a lot with tube stock, I highly recommend the Evolution Rage cold cut carbide saws (Sears sells 'em). I've got a 7.5" chopsaw that was less than $100 (I think--it is big enough for most angle/tube stock that I deal with) and it works like a dream--faster, cleaner and without heat build-up.

Sorry to hijack the thread here but Eric - this saw sounds like the holy grail for garage fab-work. Ive been avoiding the abrasive chop saws for cutting steel due to the inaccuracy of them. I've been hoofing it off to my buddy's work place where they have a mega-buck bandsaw. That process is wearing thin though - on him as well as me .

How long do the blades last and are they spendy?

Thanks!
Lewis

[Eric DeSilva]

this saw sounds like the holy grail for garage fab-work.

Sears carries them--they are listing the Rage4 for $159.99, although I think I got mine on sale. I did buy a second, steel-specific blade for mine (I think they run about $60 for the 7.25"), but I've never had to put it on, and I've done several hundred cuts in 1/8" wall 2" square stock and the like using the normal, non-steel specific blade. It is *loud*. But the cuts are clean, cold and the blade doesn't deflect like the abrasive saws. I've heard that people used to abrasive saws tend to wear the blades out faster because of how they cut, but I don't seem to have those bad habits. They are carbide, so they can be resharpened...

[Lewis Cobb]

Sears carries them--they are listing the Rage4 for $159.99, although I think I got mine on sale. I did buy a second, steel-specific blade for mine (I think they run about $60 for the 7.25"), but I've never had to put it on, and I've done several hundred cuts in 1/8" wall 2" square stock and the like using the normal, non-steel specific blade. It is *loud*. But the cuts are clean, cold and the blade doesn't deflect like the abrasive saws. I've heard that people used to abrasive saws tend to wear the blades out faster because of how they cut, but I don't seem to have those bad habits. They are carbide, so they can be resharpened...

SWEET ! I'm off to the local Sears tonight to have a look. Thanks for the tip.

[Matt Meiser]

Here's a link to what Eric is talking about: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+rage+chop+saw

Eric, how bad is the mess with those? I had an abrasive saw at one time. The mess led me to get rid of it. That was a hot mess too. One other advantage I see to the bandsaw is odd cuts. For example, when I join 2 pieces of angle I cut off part of one of the two pieces and do what's roughly equivalent to a half-lap joint. Those are easy on the band saw. But that does take a lot less space than the bandsaw which would be nice too.

[Eric DeSilva]

It is somewhat messy, but because they are little chunks of steel, not that abrasive saw particulate dust kind of stuff, I find it less noxious and easier to clean up. I just sweep the area with a magnet. The chunks aren't hot either.

I've done the kind of cuts you are talking about, I think, but only partway with the Rage, then its back to the hacksaw. But, most of what I cut is though--rod, angle. For everything else I can always fire up the plasma cutter...

The only thing that really tees me off about the Rage is that the miter fence is terrible--stamped steel just like the abrasive saws. I think I had to take a rat tail file to my slot to extend it to reach a real 45*. But considering the alternatives, I still love the darn thing.

[Paul Steiner]

Anyone find a deal on some Kreg track let us know. I could use about 4 more pieces. It used to be $29 and now is $40 and above most places. I should have stocked up.

How does the Rockler "multi-track" compare to the Kreg klamp track? I have seen people use T track but obviously it is not as robust. But I was looking through my Rockler catalog and saw the multi track anyone tried it or T-track? It is a little cheaper than the kreg track.