Lumber Rack In Progress

[Tom LaRussa]

Just thought I'd post a couple pics of the lumber rack I'm building.

It'll be attached to the wall behind it in the pics with 5/8" lead expansion anchors holding 3/8" x 4" lag bolts. (The wall in the background is concrete block, as are most exterior walls here in Hurricane Heaven.)

The lag bolts will go through the horizontals and be spaced at two bolts between each two verticals on the top and bottom rows and one bolt between each two verticals in the middle two rows.

The verticals are spaced 16" OC. The brackets/arms/thingies are made by sandwiching a piece of 2x4 between two pieces of 1/2" plywood. (Actually, I've only built the one so far -- just 23 more to go!) The plywood sides will be bolted to the vertical 2x4s.

Question:

Can any of you engineer types tell me how to figure out how much load this thing can carry? I really don't want it crashing down on me.

[Tyler Howell]

Tom!!

You have been very busy of late! Thanks for sharing

[Jim Becker]

Looking good, Tom. I don't know how to calculate the load it will support, but it should be substantial. One thing, if you cut the plywood so it angles back straight rather than using the little scalop, it may be just a little stronger, albeit with just a hair less height available for the row below. You might also make a row of the supports with 2x6 material for the bottom row and thicker material. The increased surface against the vertical will also provide more support and capacity for that row.

[Ted Shrader]

Tom -

How are the horizontal 2X4's attached to the vertical ones? Looks like the verticals may try to pull away from the top with load on the rack. Any thought on putting another 2X4 at the top only on the outside (wood storage side) and use a long bolt through the whole sandwich into the anchors?

Second, the plywood arms will have two bolts (w/ fender washers) through each, correct? There will be a lot of shear force on the ends of the arms. If the bolts pinch the plywood to the vertical 2X4, you will be more secure.

Third - This is nowhere near the garage door, right?

Looks like you will be able to hold enough wood to keep you busy for quite a while. Good work!
Ted

[Tom LaRussa]

One thing, if you cut the plywood so it angles back straight rather than using the little scalop, it may be just a little stronger, albeit with just a hair less height available for the row below. You might also make a row of the supports with 2x6 material for the bottom row and thicker material. The increased surface against the vertical will also provide more support and capacity for that row.

Thanks Jim, those are two good suggestions. I think I'll go with both.

[Tom LaRussa]

Hi Ted,

How are the horizontal 2X4's attached to the vertical ones?

I ran a 3 1/2" x 1/4" lag bolt through each joint from the back side of the horizontals into the vertical. I have been wondering, though, if one lag bolt was enough. Perhaps I should add another one (or two) at each joint?

Any thought on putting another 2X4 at the top only on the outside (wood storage side) and use a long bolt through the whole sandwich into the anchors?

I hadn't thought of that. Do you think it's preferable to adding lag bolts to each joint?

Second, the plywood arms will have two bolts (w/ fender washers) through each, correct?

Actually, I was thinking three, but not too large -- like 1/4" diameter. I worry about taking out too much of the structure of the verticals by boring big holes through them.

Third - This is nowhere near the garage door, right?

ARRRGGGHHH!

But seriously, the rack is as far from any door as it could be while remaining inside the gar ... er ... shop.

Also, since the "incident" I have been moving things around. The big work table with shelves underneath, which used to abut the wall directly below where the lumber rack is to be attached, now buts up against the big roll-up door, and the grinder table sits next to it, also against the door. I've also unplugged the electric opener and will probably take it down and move it over to the small door, which is the only one used for a car anyway.

[Steve Cox]

Tom,
I have a similar lumber rack in my shop. I have stud walls covered in drywall so a little different than your situation. I simply lag screwed the 2 x 4 uprights to the studs on 16" centers. I then built the horizontal supports with the same construction method as yours except I merely put lots of glue in between the plywood and the 2 x 4s and held the whole thing together with drywall screws. My supports start about 4 feet off the floor and are 16" long for the first couple of layers and step beck to 12" long for the top ones. Mine goes most of the way to the top of a 10' wall. I don't know the engineering numbers for it but it has been up for a couple of years now and has at times been pretty well loaded down and I've never had any problems. Yours looks much better than mine BTW

[Tom LaRussa]

Yours looks much better than mine BTW

That's just because I managed to hide the crooked upright in the pics.

[Ted Shrader]

Hi Tom -

I hadn't thought of that. Do you think it's preferable to adding lag bolts to each joint?

I think the sandwich would work better since the bolt is holding everyting in compression. Thought about it a little more since the previous response . . . You could use threaded rod to screw into Red Head anchors, then use a nut and washer to tighten it all up.

Actually, I was thinking three, but not too large -- like 1/4" diameter. I worry about taking out too much of the structure of the verticals by boring big holes through them.

Know what you mean about taking too much material out. When I first read your post, I thought the bolts would pull right through the end of the plywood. However, clamping pressure should mitigate that. The rack will be able to carry all the weight you have room to stack on it. Unless you get a huge load of lignum vitea.

ARRRGGGHHH! But seriously, the rack is as far from any door as it could be while remaining inside the gar ... er ... shop.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

. . . .unplugged the electric opener and will probably take it down and move it over to the small door, which is the only one used for a car anyway.

I took mine down several years ago. Only time I need the door up is when I am in the gar . . er, shop, too. My other shop door is blocked by a stack of plywood, so I can't even get to the handle to open it.

Let us know when you get the rack done - with pictures.

Regards,
Ted