I know this is probably very basic but I would like to know what type of a finish product BLO is. I've seen it mentioned for popping out grain. Thanks.
I know this is probably very basic but I would like to know what type of a finish product BLO is. I've seen it mentioned for popping out grain. Thanks.
Boiled linseed oil, however, the modern version is not boiled, but has driers added to aid in curing. Some use tung oil, which is much more expensive, and has a slightly different color. The addition of oil seems to warm up the color and add depth.
I should add that, interestingly, the same question was posted a couple of days ago in the Turners forum!
BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Boiled Linseed Oil. And in reality it is not boiled and you don't have to boil it. It is available at the big box stores and at any wood working supply. If you use it it takes forever to cure and a bunch of coats to look its best.
Some people love it. I don't. I use Watco instead. Same look with less wait.
~Todd
David, as a follow up to Todd's post, I don't know many that actually use BLO as a finish anymore. As Todd says, it takes forever to fully cure, and it isn't that great of a finish unless applied in many coats, over a long period of time. Danish oil is a mixture of oil, varnish, and a carrier (mineral spirits?) It is a nice finish, and the oil does serve to pop the grain.
I use BLO as an initial application to get the color and depth, and follow with dewaxed shellac. From there, one can use any finish schedule. This method seems to be pretty common.
And I use Deft Danish Oil.
I've never used it but it seems very popular among members here, even under a film finish like shellac or varnish.
For oil, I like Mohawk's Tung Oil; after the second coat or so you really start to get some build.
Definitely +1 on the BLO to pop the grain & depth, then shellac on top.
I also use the age-old homemade version of the danish - BLO, varnish and turpentine (in my version), roughly equal proportions - good finish, wipe on - wipe off, so works well in post-assembly situations with inside surfaces (boockases, etc) - since I don't have spray equip
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
Thanks all! What I've got going is bird's eye maple veneer. My plan per Jeff Hewitt is to spray tinted SealCoat for a sealer followed by Target's Optima clear waterborne gloss lacquer and polished out to a high gloss.
I happened to see a thread on here about popping out grain and wondered if I should bother trying to pop out the eyes of the BEM prior to the Sealcoat. I'm not certain the BLO is compatable under Sealcoat, is it?
While the stuff you buy at the BORG and most other places is not boiled but infused with heavy metal "driers" you can still get "boiled" linseed oil. Solvent Free Paint carries a whole host of linseed oil products. BLO is a great finish for tool handles as it provides a nice grip. It is also nice on things that you know are going to need to be repaired often as it is an easy finish to touch up. Just wipe with mineral spirits and reapply.
FYI BLO was NEVER boiled. Boiling would destroy the drying properties.
When the metal driers are add to warmed linseed oil < 180 degrees it reacts and bubbles looking as if it is BOILING. Hence the name.
Lead was the metal of choice till about 1978; now they use barium sulfate or titanium dioxide. The metal driers help it cure in 24-48 hours instead of 14-28 days.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
John - How many coats of BLO do you use in that regimen, say on a walnut table top? How long after the last coat before you can apply the shellac? Any particular brand of shellac that you prefer? Do you apply anything on top of the shellac? Again, product names appreciated, thanks.Originally Posted by Originally Posted by [B
Love the woodwork, HATE the bloody finishing...
Dan
Last edited by Dan Mitchell; 02-02-2010 at 2:25 AM.
one coat of any oil will darken the grain of any wood. which oil is completely personal preference.
generally, 24 hours after an oil sealer before the shellac, shellac can be applied with about 5 minutes between coats. then the top coat depends of course on what you want to use on top.
shellac builds a film. enough coats and it will obscure the grain underneath. the idea with adding an oil first is to darken the grain enough for it to show through the shellac.
Dan,
You can do a "quick shellac polish finish" by first rubbing on a thin coat of BLO and immediately wiping it off. You want to use only enough oil to burnish the surface and pop the grain. Follow with padded on shellac in the manner of a French Polish: the oiled surface provides the lubrication for the pad. Apply shellac until you have reached the desired depth and gloss of finish. Other finishes may be applied over dewaxed shellac, but I usually just use paste wax.
This finish, or a variation thereof, was written up in FWW during the last year or so. It is fast, almost foolproof (even I can do it), is easy to repair, wears very well, and looks like a million bucks. Try it on a scrap and see what you think!
-Jerry
Jerry,
You say other finishes can be used after the BLO, multi-coat shellac. Other than paste wax what other finishes would you suggest?
Thanks, Ray